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Guys, I need a quick run down on the best brake mods. for early Zs. I have a early 260.

Front: I Ihave read about the Toyota 4 x 4 front swap on Bob Hanvey's page.

Rear: What is the best way to go?, swap in an 1981-1983 ZX rear end with stock zx rear disks, then upgrad the calipers and rotors? If so, what rear calipers and rotors? Does the Toyota 4 x 4 300zx mod. apply to the 81-83 ZX rear end and well?
 

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A list of possible mods

> Guys, I need a quick run down on the best
> brake mods. for early Zs. I have a early
> 260.

> Front: I Ihave read about the Toyota 4 x 4
> front swap on Bob Hanvey's page.

Mod 1) You can swap the early '78-'83 S12 (I said S8 in an earlier post, but S12 is correct) Calipers onto your 240-280Z stock SOLID rotor with the only mod being some minor brake tube bending and removal/cutting of the dust shield.

Mod 2) You can swap later '88up V6 4x4 S12W calipers onto your car, but will require the use of a vented rotor (you need to make sure you mention V6, as the 4cyl version is the S12). The vented rotor that works is one from a 1984 ONLY 300ZX. This is a 4 bolt rotor and 10.9 diameter. Problem: you need to have a machine shop make a .500-.800 thick spacer to get the rotor offset correctly. This will vary depending on the thickness of your hub.

I am currently having one made out of 6061-T6, and if others are interested, I can make some more. Remember, you need to know the thickness of your hub so that it will space the rotor correctly. The one on Bob Hanvey's page is for a 280Z, not 240Z. The 240Z hub is about 8mm THINNER than a 280Z. A friend is making a prototype for me this month, and if it works, I will be glad to have more made, but I will need to get a quote from a production shop, as my friend is just doing mine as a favor. The more people who sign up, the better, as it will reduce the cost of the spacer because we are making more. Most machine shop cost is in the setup, so once it's setup, it's easy to just crank these parts out, and just get cheaper as we go along. Don't worry, I won't be gouging prices or anything like that. I can guarantee you that unless you have a machinist friend, these will cost you more money than you want to spend.

Note: These calipers might cause interference with your wheels, so I would check wheel-caliper interference before buying any rotors or spacer parts. You really need to know what you're getting into, before you go around buying parts.

> Rear: What is the best way to go?, swap in
> an 1981-1983 ZX rear end with stock zx rear
> disks, then upgrad the calipers and rotors?
> If so, what rear calipers and rotors? Does
> the Toyota 4 x 4 300zx mod. apply to the
> 81-83 ZX rear end and well?

All the 280ZX rear rotors will slip right over any stub axle from 240-280. Just like replacing the drums.

As far as swapping in a 280ZX rear end into an earlier 240-280, good luck. The rear end for the 280ZX is of a trailing arm design, which is COMPLETELY different from a 240-280, which is a Chapman strut design. The only exception being the diff and axles.

No, the Toyota 4x4 swap is for NON-DRIVING wheels. The drive wheels use a much different design rotor to accomodate the bigger bearings, seals, etc....
Besides, you don't want that much braking in the rear, as you need to have more braking in front due to weight transfer when you start braking. If you had better/equal braking in the rear, the rear would lock up quite easily, and would provide for some interesting driving.

Mod 3) The problem with the '81-'83 rotor is that it is HEAVILY offset, and the caliper that goes with it is absolute crap. Jim Cook Racing makes a bracket ($179) that will bolt this on, but I wouldn't do it.

Mod 4) The '82-'83 280ZX rotor has alot better offset, and the caliper is a better design. This is what I plan on using, when I find a way to get it mounted correctly. There is a bracket from a '84 ONLY Maxima that will slip over your stub axle, and bolt onto the strut. I made a mistake of getting the bracket from a '85 Maxima, and although it looked the same, it DID NOT slip over the stub axle. The i.d. was almost .250 too small, other than that, it bolts to the same 4 holes that the backing plate used to go to (God bless NISSAN for keeping things so similar!!). A little machining could easily fix this.

All is not well however, as correctly spacing the caliper over the rotor is now an issue. The reason for this is that the 240-280 stub axle is a different length than a 280ZX, which does not let the rotor sit as far back as it should. I'm looking into possible fixes for this such as installing a 280ZX stub axle in it's place. The bearings on all these are the same, HOWEVER, the seals are in different locations, so some may work, some may not, I don't know. Future junkyard trips are planned.

Any more questions, and I'll try to answer.

240Dave
 
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