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Re Blacking Trim- 83 280zx??????

1314 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  spenceronni770
Can any one tell me if there is a kit, or how to Reblack (if that is a word) the Trim? On my wifes 83 the trim is black, I notice on the T Top brackets the Blacking has chipped off and the Chrome is partially exposed, Is there a way to redo it with out removing it, as well as the rest of the black trim around the windows, doors, and so on with out buying new. I really have not found New trim listed at the present so I think my only option is to re black it but I do not know what it is coated with either. I hate to replace parts that can be salvaged or reconditioned. Thanks
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seewll72 said:
Can any one tell me if there is a kit, or how to Reblack (if that is a word) the Trim? On my wifes 83 the trim is black, I notice on the T Top brackets the Blacking has chipped off and the Chrome is partially exposed, Is there a way to redo it with out removing it, as well as the rest of the black trim around the windows, doors, and so on with out buying new. I really have not found New trim listed at the present so I think my only option is to re black it but I do not know what it is coated with either. I hate to replace parts that can be salvaged or reconditioned. Thanks
I have the same problem on my '83 2+2. I'll be watching for responses also.
what has worked for me is to clean the piece thoroughly to get rid of any oil or other junk. brake or electric cleaner works well. then scuff up the piece with fine abrasive. In painting terms this gives the metal a tooth for the paint to cling to. use a spray can and masking tape to paint it. This will last quite well but you may have to redo in the future.
RogerZ said:
what has worked for me is to clean the piece thoroughly to get rid of any oil or other junk. brake or electric cleaner works well. then scuff up the piece with fine abrasive. In painting terms this gives the metal a tooth for the paint to cling to. use a spray can and masking tape to paint it. This will last quite well but you may have to redo in the future.
Regarding the paint, would you just use a hi end Krylon or something like that from HD / Lowes?
Make sure to use a adhesion promoter primer and clear coat for protection.
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The trim at the lateral edge of the t-top is stuck there with 2 sided tape. I had mine just ...unadhere one day...if that is a word. I would use a satin black...not flat and not gloss. Definitely clean any microscopic grease, I like the idea of elec cleaner and brake cleaner leaves no film.

Try a trial piece without the sanding or scuffing, those scratches will show. I'm sure Roger meant real FINE scuff pad equivalent to a 1600 grit but first do a trial piece.

Now the important part. You do not want to "paint" it on. You want to "dust" it on. At least the first couple coats. The fine spray will adhere where the glob will not. After you have it covered, you can shoot it with a coverage coat. I found this method to work well on parts that tended to fisheye, but once it fisheyes, you are screwed. You have to remove it and start all over to try tp avoid fisheye.
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Thanks for the info so far.
if it is metal pull it off and have it powder coated.
ppg makes a satin black called factory package. Its as durable as any other auto paint. A body shop can spray it. Or if you got a hvlp gun and a compressed air you can do it. WAY better than any spray can as far as looks durability and life span
I have painted a set of aluminum louvers for my 280zx summer hatch in the ppg paint I can send you a pic if you message me. spray cans fade and break down fast, cheap will not survive one year. SEM makes a better trim satin black that lasts longer but spray cans are such thin paint they scratch and chip too easy. Love your car, get the right paint, PPG.
Mine too!
word to the wise those trim pieces on the t tops fly off at hwy speeds sometimes. that double side tape is pretty gone by now. I lost one and JB welded a new one and the other side to prevent it happening again.
that's for sure, fortunately I was not driving but it just came off one day. It is then I found out they were just a fascade. They need to come off on any paint job.
Me and a painter split a gallon, and threw away the original lable. No code for 'factory package', it comes pre mixed. If I was to make up a code for satin black it would be delfleet esm125 opal black plus a flattener.
mask it + rustoleum
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