Re: Q's about TUNING and did i blow up my head gas
> Yeeeaaah - it feels great when I hammer the
> pedal to the metal, the boost preasure rises
> to 12 psi and my rear tyres is skidding a
> little due to shear acceleration and leaves
> a mark from my Goodyear Eagle 225*50 16
> GS-D+ - But I think it has a price to boost
> a L28ET S130 engine so much without any
> other alterations than a manual boost
> controller and a home made 76.1mm stainless
> exhaust pipe.
> I have been fault seeking on my engine for
> quite a while and i found some minor and
> some major errors on it. The max preasure
> has been 12 psi from the day i purchased the
> car a year ago, but the car did'nt run very
> smooth when i was driving nice and quietly
> down the road, but when i floored it it felt
> OK.
> The following errors was encountered:
> 1. Faulty ignition vac. advance....($140) in
> denmark!!!
> 2. Ignition timing 9 degrees to retard.
> 3. Leaking Vacum Crontrol Valve on the
> intake resulting in high idle....($96).
> THE TIMING MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL IS 21
> DEGREES OUT OF ALLIGNMENT WITH TDC!!!.
> After setting my timing (a month struggle
> finding the error) I took the car for a test
> drive with boost set to normal 6.8 psi and
> the car was running smoothly and silently
> down the road - quick response even below
> 2000 rpm which i never had tried before and
> generaly felt like you could expect from a
> 200 bhp car.
> After the first runs with low boost i raised
> preasure to 12 psi and listened very
> carefully under acceleration if there was
> any indikation of detonation - I could'nt
> hear any so I found a good highwayand tried
> to floor it i 5th gear pulling the car to a
> speedometer indication of 145mph and holdig
> it there for app 2 miles. When i got home i
> checked the engine compartment and found it
> soaked in water coming from the coolant
> water expansion container - and there was 2
> liter of water missing in the radiator.
> MY QUESTION IS DID I BLOW UP MY
> CYLINDERHEADGASKET OR COULD IT BE SOMETHING
> ELSE??
> I naturally reduced boost preasure after
> that insident and the car runs fine but of
> course without the same amount of power.
> There is no water in the oil and it seems
> that there is no oil in the water. the car
> did'nt overheat at any point during the run
> and it was of course up to normal operating
> temperature.
> If the gasket is blown which gasket should i
> purchase and from where???
HKS SIMPLY MAKES THE NICEST GASKET AROUND. I RUN 19 PSI DAILY WITH NO PROBLEMS AND THE GASKET CAN TAKE ALOT MORE. $130 FOR 1MM AND $160 FOR 2MM THICH GASKETS.
> When i have the head of should i then mill
> of the cylinderhead to raise compresion like
> the Stealth, or should i leave it as it
> is???
NEVER LISTEN TO A THING THAT GUY POSTS. IF YOU MILL THE HEAD, YOU WILL RAISE COMPRESSION AND ALSO THROW OFF YOUR CAM TIMING. YOU WOULD THEN NEED TO SHIM THE CAM TOWERS OR BUY AN ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKET. I KNOW GUYS RUNNING 7.4:1 COMPRESSION AND RUNNING 12.5'S IN THE 1/4. THE LOWER COMPRESSION WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN HIGHER BOOST LEVELS.
> What is O-ringing the block to
> hold the gasket in place under detonation
> and how is it performed???
O-RINGING IS CUTTING A SMALL GROOVE AROUND THE CYLINDER BORE. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN DOWN THE HEAD, THE GASKET IS FORCED INTO THE GROOVE CREATING A SEAL THAT IS DIFFICULT TO BREAK. THE HKS AND SOME ARP HEAD STUDS WILL GIVE YOU ALL THE PROTECTION YOU WILL NEED EVEN AT 25PSI BOOST. ALTHOUGH IT CANNOT HURT TO HAVE IT O-RINGED, IT IS NOT ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.
> When I am at it I think that I will port
> match my manifold with the cylinderhead. Is
> there somthing that I should be cautious
> about in that operation???
NEVER MAKE THE MANIFOLD PORTS LARGER THAN THE HEAD PORTS. THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO FORM A LIP THAT WILL ABRUPT FLOW AND KILL PERFORMANCE. USE A GASKET AS A TEMPLATE TO BOTH YOUR MANIFOLD AND HEAD. LINE UP THE BOLT HOLES AND MARK WHERE METAL IS TO BE REMOVED.
> Will i benefit from a Webber big throat
> trottle body without changing the Airflow
> meter - where to get one and how much $$???
YOU WILL BENEFIT IN PERFORMANCE, I HAVE NO IDEA THE COST.
> What are the requirements to my EFI system
> after these mods and how can i perform them
> - both cheap and more expensive methods can
> be considered pleaase ad a price if you have
> any??
HAVE AFTERMARKET FUEL/IGNITION COMPUTER, HAVE NO IDEA. YOU CAN BUY THE UPGRADE ECU FROM MOTORSPORT.
> I will ad a intercooler in the same
> operation so i would like to know wich one
> is the best and where to get it??
****, YOU RUN 12PSI WITH NO INTERCOOLER! DEATH WISH ON THE MOTOR????? SPEARCO MAKES GOOD INTERCOOLERS, ALSO BELL ENGINEERING MAKES A NICE INTERCOOLER FOR CHEAP.
> A lot of Q's from a Dane with NEED for speed
> - I would like to win a competition called
> the fastest car i denmark, where you should
> perform 1000m run like a drag racing but
> about 4.5 times as long followed by a slalom
> run.
> Hope to get many answers to my Q's
> Thanks Brian Madsen
> PS by the way the car is a 280 ZX TT 2+2
> from 83
> Yeeeaaah - it feels great when I hammer the
> pedal to the metal, the boost preasure rises
> to 12 psi and my rear tyres is skidding a
> little due to shear acceleration and leaves
> a mark from my Goodyear Eagle 225*50 16
> GS-D+ - But I think it has a price to boost
> a L28ET S130 engine so much without any
> other alterations than a manual boost
> controller and a home made 76.1mm stainless
> exhaust pipe.
> I have been fault seeking on my engine for
> quite a while and i found some minor and
> some major errors on it. The max preasure
> has been 12 psi from the day i purchased the
> car a year ago, but the car did'nt run very
> smooth when i was driving nice and quietly
> down the road, but when i floored it it felt
> OK.
> The following errors was encountered:
> 1. Faulty ignition vac. advance....($140) in
> denmark!!!
> 2. Ignition timing 9 degrees to retard.
> 3. Leaking Vacum Crontrol Valve on the
> intake resulting in high idle....($96).
> THE TIMING MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL IS 21
> DEGREES OUT OF ALLIGNMENT WITH TDC!!!.
> After setting my timing (a month struggle
> finding the error) I took the car for a test
> drive with boost set to normal 6.8 psi and
> the car was running smoothly and silently
> down the road - quick response even below
> 2000 rpm which i never had tried before and
> generaly felt like you could expect from a
> 200 bhp car.
> After the first runs with low boost i raised
> preasure to 12 psi and listened very
> carefully under acceleration if there was
> any indikation of detonation - I could'nt
> hear any so I found a good highwayand tried
> to floor it i 5th gear pulling the car to a
> speedometer indication of 145mph and holdig
> it there for app 2 miles. When i got home i
> checked the engine compartment and found it
> soaked in water coming from the coolant
> water expansion container - and there was 2
> liter of water missing in the radiator.
> MY QUESTION IS DID I BLOW UP MY
> CYLINDERHEADGASKET OR COULD IT BE SOMETHING
> ELSE??
> I naturally reduced boost preasure after
> that insident and the car runs fine but of
> course without the same amount of power.
> There is no water in the oil and it seems
> that there is no oil in the water. the car
> did'nt overheat at any point during the run
> and it was of course up to normal operating
> temperature.
> If the gasket is blown which gasket should i
> purchase and from where???
HKS SIMPLY MAKES THE NICEST GASKET AROUND. I RUN 19 PSI DAILY WITH NO PROBLEMS AND THE GASKET CAN TAKE ALOT MORE. $130 FOR 1MM AND $160 FOR 2MM THICH GASKETS.
> When i have the head of should i then mill
> of the cylinderhead to raise compresion like
> the Stealth, or should i leave it as it
> is???
NEVER LISTEN TO A THING THAT GUY POSTS. IF YOU MILL THE HEAD, YOU WILL RAISE COMPRESSION AND ALSO THROW OFF YOUR CAM TIMING. YOU WOULD THEN NEED TO SHIM THE CAM TOWERS OR BUY AN ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKET. I KNOW GUYS RUNNING 7.4:1 COMPRESSION AND RUNNING 12.5'S IN THE 1/4. THE LOWER COMPRESSION WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN HIGHER BOOST LEVELS.
> What is O-ringing the block to
> hold the gasket in place under detonation
> and how is it performed???
O-RINGING IS CUTTING A SMALL GROOVE AROUND THE CYLINDER BORE. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN DOWN THE HEAD, THE GASKET IS FORCED INTO THE GROOVE CREATING A SEAL THAT IS DIFFICULT TO BREAK. THE HKS AND SOME ARP HEAD STUDS WILL GIVE YOU ALL THE PROTECTION YOU WILL NEED EVEN AT 25PSI BOOST. ALTHOUGH IT CANNOT HURT TO HAVE IT O-RINGED, IT IS NOT ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.
> When I am at it I think that I will port
> match my manifold with the cylinderhead. Is
> there somthing that I should be cautious
> about in that operation???
NEVER MAKE THE MANIFOLD PORTS LARGER THAN THE HEAD PORTS. THIS WILL CAUSE YOU TO FORM A LIP THAT WILL ABRUPT FLOW AND KILL PERFORMANCE. USE A GASKET AS A TEMPLATE TO BOTH YOUR MANIFOLD AND HEAD. LINE UP THE BOLT HOLES AND MARK WHERE METAL IS TO BE REMOVED.
> Will i benefit from a Webber big throat
> trottle body without changing the Airflow
> meter - where to get one and how much $$???
YOU WILL BENEFIT IN PERFORMANCE, I HAVE NO IDEA THE COST.
> What are the requirements to my EFI system
> after these mods and how can i perform them
> - both cheap and more expensive methods can
> be considered pleaase ad a price if you have
> any??
HAVE AFTERMARKET FUEL/IGNITION COMPUTER, HAVE NO IDEA. YOU CAN BUY THE UPGRADE ECU FROM MOTORSPORT.
> I will ad a intercooler in the same
> operation so i would like to know wich one
> is the best and where to get it??
****, YOU RUN 12PSI WITH NO INTERCOOLER! DEATH WISH ON THE MOTOR????? SPEARCO MAKES GOOD INTERCOOLERS, ALSO BELL ENGINEERING MAKES A NICE INTERCOOLER FOR CHEAP.
> A lot of Q's from a Dane with NEED for speed
> - I would like to win a competition called
> the fastest car i denmark, where you should
> perform 1000m run like a drag racing but
> about 4.5 times as long followed by a slalom
> run.
> Hope to get many answers to my Q's
> Thanks Brian Madsen
> PS by the way the car is a 280 ZX TT 2+2
> from 83
