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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Assuming I can mask these parts to that powdercoating doesn't go where it shouldn't, can these components withstand the temps necessary to powdercoat them?

* Water pump

* Distributor body

* Transmission

* Starter
 

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Yup

You can disassemble the components and PC only the parts you want done, too--that's the usual way to get it done. Most PC places won't accept a complete transmission for coating, anyway, just the case.
 

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related powder coating q's

how do you powder coat? i know that it involves some sort of powder that is put on metal and then heated. how hot do you have to get the stuff and what kind of prep is needed? i know someone with a potery kiln would that get hot enough, could i use a standard oven? any help would be great
 

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Re: Yup

You must take it all apart. Powdercoating is done at 400 deg. While my IR lamp will not heat big parts through the whole part, it can melt parts close to the surface. anything that goes in to the over I remove all parts then bake.

if you are talking about doing it yourself you can get high temp plugs and tape from eastwoodco.com if you want to block holes (follow the links to hotcoat stuff), other wise dust it down the brush off the part you don't want to coat... The nice thing about powder coating if you mess up just dust off the part and start again.... it also helps to have a sand blaster to clean parts as well as chem cleaners that hotcoat sells
 

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Oven yes

But I would not use it to cook anything after that. Find one that the top burns are out but the oven works cheap 25 to 50 bucks...

Hotcoat kit is like under 200
IR Lamp and IR Temp Checker is about 450
Good air compressor is like 400 25gal 6HP with 100' hose and other goodies

It might sound like a lot but it can pay for itself real quick. Plus you can take a part off your car, clean, prep, coat, bake, cool and put back on in hours not days waiting on some one else to do it... I have done air cleaner, nuts, bolts, bands, brackets, shifter, brake parts, rails at the bottom of the doors, 1/4 window trim and other trim so far with out using my IR Lamp yet... I got it to do things like my front and rear bumpers, rack, control arms, TR, tie rod ends, Servo, Master Cylinder, brake lines, fuel lines, and Corvette IRS. If it comes apart you can power coat it. You can even get a powder called almost chrome and then top coat it with the translucent color of your choice... I did that to my 5 lug hubs and they look like they had been chromed first...

you can read more on how to's at eastwoodco.com follow the links to hotcoat don't let the pro gun put you off the other kit is only 1/3 the price...

Z U V8ter
 

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Re: Oven yes

Both Eastwood and Hot Coat are having a sale on their system right now. Just got the e-mail announcement as I logged on.

The Basic kit is on sale for 99.99, and Eastwood is offering free shipping.

The coatings are also 20% off.

The basic bottom line they have on their FAQ page is that the item to be coated MUST be able to withstand the 400 degree F curing temperature.
 

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Oven Not Required!

Check with your local powder coater. There is a process that uses an electrostatic charge, and a small heating element on the tip of the gun that will melt the polyester balls and let them hit the part in molten form. I used this in the field on a job in the Detroit Michigan area four years ago when powdercoating large coolant vessels at National Steel Co. It was the first time I'd ever seen "powdercoating" done without an oven. If they got it in Detroit, they gotta have it elsewhere. I mean, the oven is a nice way to get frames and lots of parts done in batches, but this system would work great for what you have. I've not been to Eastwood's site in a looooooong time, but the stuff they sell (sold) is pretty neat, and if they got something that they say will do the same thing, they probably do.
 

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Re: Oven No

Keep reading IR Lamp does not heat the whole part just the top. If part is thin then you would prob melt something on the other side... But if big part is thick you only worry about what is sticking out the end (seal, O ring...) it would not hurt part like bearing because the temp there will not hit 400... You do each coated side and move up from the bottom of part 10" at a time... You use a IR temp gun to read the surface temp and hold at 400 for 15 mins after flow out... So something like a bumper would take about 5 adjustments X about 17 mins per move X 3 coated sides... the inside of the bumper should not get very hot...

Once on it can withstand 350 deg temp and fuel/brake fluid will not hurt it....

That is a very good price BTW spend the extra money and get the plugs, tape, ss wire ( to hang parts & good grounding point BTW ) and chems to clean parts right. If you order powder 2 or 3 8oz at a time they ship in the cup that fits the gun. If you order bulk they ship in a big bag (messy to refill) 1 8oz can cover about as much as 2 to 3 cans of spray and this stuff is tuff...

Z U V8ter
 
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