[103kzx]

In the endless search to try to get my car to consistently start, i keep hiting blocks along the way, i have changed the oil cause it smelled like gas, ended up being 8 quarts of oil/gas in there, i changed the spark plugs cause the exaust smelled like gas and i thought well mebey im not getting spark. i bought a new distibutor thinking well the crank angle sensor controls the spark. i recently installed a new fuel pressure regulator, the diafram was broken causing gas to leak down into my intake monifold. but now it still won't start up, if i unplug my afm and try to start my car it just sputters, but when i plug it back in it does the same thing and will not start.

When my car did run it was VERY VERY slow and didn't reach speeds above 55. although i did hit a 2nd gear scratch but seriously i am wondering if this could be one of my many problems, oh.. yeah when my car did start i messed with the head temp sensor and my car died, i assume cause of too much gas, i pushed it in not out, and i got worse the harder i pushed it. I think my afm is the next choice to get.

Oh.. yeah and please don't tell me to get an original book, i got one. and don't go off the subject please. I posted this once before and i got a response of like check this and check that. all i want to know is my afm going out or is it out? sorry for being so blunt

 

[johnb510]

OK, I will be blunt...

So you say you have the original book (that being the Factory Service Manual... aka The almighty FSM), and to answer your question, yes the a bad AFM can cause the symptoms you described.
Now, since you said you have the "original book", turn to the engine fuel section and perform the tests on the AFM. Be sure to do the test where you need to put 12 volts dc on the two pins on the AFM. That test will confirm that the potentiometer is good or bad. Of course, you will need a pair of aligator test leads, multimeter, and of course the FSM's engine fuel section tests.
Also in the engine fuel section there is a flow chart on symptoms and things to check. Best advise is to start at page 1 and read the entire chapter... also clean all the green crud off all the FI connectors.
But if you are BSing us and you don't have the FSM, just go out and spend more money on parts that may not fix the problem.
Sorry to be so blunt...

 

[john cross]

Re: OK, I will be blunt...

I agree wioth 510. This sounds like somehting basic, like a vacuum leak. Educate yourself and look for the obvious.

 

[johnh240]

Naahhhh.. he doesn't need to do that...

I think he needs to just replace the AFM. And make sure you take the cover off and adjust the spring tensioner BEFORE you install it, just to make it run reeaaallllyyyy gooooooddddd! Might as well pick up an ecu to match too. I wouldn't even think about checking that CHT connection any more, since it made the engine run differently when you pushed it. Heck, just throw the manual in the trash....we don't need no stinkin' books! Not when we got money and time to burn!

 

[szlash280z78]

Re: Naahhhh.. he doesn't need to do that...

if the temp sensor (very important part of the system!) made it run different when you wiggled it.... ah well, I mentioned that to you before so nevermind.

 

[greydog]

Lets see, its your money and you want us to be blunt.
Buy the afm. If it doesn't fix it, you got what you asked for.
Dan