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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone out there replaced their F&R control arm bushings with polyurethane? How did it affect the ride? Was it worth it? Can a shadetree mechanic do it without a drill press or destroying things try to get it out?

Scottie
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Haven't done a 240, but I did the ZX front control arm and tension/compression rod busings. I do like the feel. Honestly though, I noticed a much greater diff when I replaced the anti-sway bar bushings than the other ones. I replaced frame-mount and endlink bushings. This seriously made a flatter handling car. If you have poly sway bushings already, then you know this. The front control bushings should be pressed out to avoid too much damage. Otherwise, you will have to beat them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
<b>RE: Poly Bushings in 240Z Control Arms</b>

Man... that wasn't the answer I wanted to hear....I picked up the bushings last weekend. Maybe its time to buy a press. I hate running to the local machine shop everytime I need to use a press. I have had my share of pounding stuff out and all it does is make me angry. Not worth the head trip to me.

Thanks for sharing Opie83ZXT. I agree with what you said about the sway bars.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All my control arm bushings cam out fairly simple. The only hard part was having to cut out the old sleeves or press them out to put the new bushings in. Why can't they just make them to fit the old sleeves. On one side the bushing was wider than the place to put it. Made it real hard to put on. I havn't done the sway bar bishings. Although for the price I should have done them. Getting ready to do my 280zxt soon. Sam 75 280z, 81 280zxt
 

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Harbor Freight Benchtop Press

Harbor Freight Salvage Co. sells a mini benchtop press that bolts together and is CHEAP. It works great for these jobs, and once you see how they bolt it all together it's just a matter of picking up some bigger pieces of channel and...
I think they have a website "Harborfreighttools" or something along that line.
Once you got it, you wonder how you did it before...
 

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Harbor Freight Website

BAH! the website is "WWW.harborfreight.com" go to the clearance items, shop equipment. They have a 12ton floor mounted press for 119$. I used this on a field job once, and used my own grade 8 hardware to assemble it instead of what they give you in the box. It used to be that they paid shipping on orders over $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<b>Thanks Tony D</b>

Tony thanks for the info. There is a Harbor Freight store within 5 miles or so of my office. I have avoided them up until now because I thought their stuff was cheap imported junk.

But if you say $120 for a press. Then that's worth looking into. Like I said in the earlier message, I hate it when I have to pound something out. Needless to say, I have "missed" more then once before. Even been known to bust a knuck or two over a "miss"

I'll keep it clean and won't go into the words that have crossed my lips during such an event..... but I think you know what I mean....

Thanks again for helping me,

Dennis
 

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You don't need a press for 240 bushings

done it twice myself in my driveway/garage. just use a blowtorch and burn out the old crap (rubber) push the middle sleeves out when the rubber around em melts. burn out most of the rubber and then put a hacksaw blade through the remaining sleeve and cut through only the sleeve (not the sleeve that the outer bushing sleeve fits into) just making 1 cut all the way through the bushing's outer sleeve well relieve the pressure causing the friction fit and you can tap out the sleeve with a punch and a hammer. This applies to inner front control arms, and outer rear control arms. (inner rears are easy to remove aside from breaking torque on the really big bolt at 118 ft lbs or thereabouts) also as you're going to experience the trouble of removing the outer pivot pin to do the outer rears, start wd40 ing it now, buy a 2 lb brass hammer at Napa or from a matco/mac/snapon guy (or wherevever else you can find that sells brass hammers) and buy a brass drift that will fit through the hole that the outer pivot pin was occupying to pound it out without mushrooming the **** out of it. also, make sure you have a die for the thread size of the pivot pin (can't remember what it is offhand) because you will screw the threads up a little and that's the easiest way to fix em. alternately buy 2 new pivot pins. Now when you put em back together, do yourself (or the next owner of your car) a favor and use anti-sieze compound on the pivot pin and insides of the bushing sleeves quite liberally so that if you should have to take them out again they won't be all corroded and stuck in place. That's basically it.
 

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it IS cheap imported stuff, but for the PRICE...

Dennis, it really IS cheap imported stuff. But for the price, it's hard to beat, especially for the home enthusiast. I personally buy all my pneumatic wrenches from them since they last just as long as the "good stuff". And if it falls off a work platform into a vat of acid... well, 19.95 is a lot easier to live with than 190.95!
For the price, It's cheap enough to go out, get REAL hardware and put a little time into it to get a real nice tool. Besides, they're pretty good about exchanges if anything breaks.
 

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RE: You don't need a press for 240 bushings

To be honest, I did it like ZEBRA (He is a God...)
The press was bought for some Corvair stuff I was doing about 10 years ago, and the press comes in handy now and again when I don't feel like smelling like a tire fire at the dinner table...
I guess it isn't so junky now that I realize I've been using it for 10yrs! Laziness is not wanting to get up and walk the 65 feet from the car to the press: "just burn it out" LOL
 
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