Does it turn off as soon as you hit the switch or when you let up on the gas pedal?
please help cruise control
hello guys , I have another issue with my car, hopefully something I can fix, haha
to remind you guys my car is a 1993 n/a.,
the car is runnin like a champ but as soon as i turn on the cruise control (the switch from the left of the dashboard) the car shutts off. (engine turns off). the car would not turn back ON unless the cruise control switch is off. Once the cruise control is off the car runs like a champ again.
i read the cpu codes and i am getting 55
does anybody know what could possible be wrong with my car?
to remind you guys my car is a 1993 n/a.,
the car is runnin like a champ but as soon as i turn on the cruise control (the switch from the left of the dashboard) the car shutts off. (engine turns off). the car would not turn back ON unless the cruise control switch is off. Once the cruise control is off the car runs like a champ again.
i read the cpu codes and i am getting 55
does anybody know what could possible be wrong with my car?
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it turns off as i let go off the switch.
Unplug the under hood cruise motor & see if that stops the Killing!
Mike
Mike
were is the under hood cruise motor? and ill try it
I would disconnect the electrical connector from the cruise control diaphram under the hood after checking the lil vacuum hose that goes to the one side of it. Sounds like you're creating a big vacuum leak when it energizes so it's likely that or a major short. Do you ever get a shock when getting out of the car? lol That could indicate a short.
EDIT: Ignore the vacuum leak part. That's a closed vacuum system.
EDIT: Ignore the vacuum leak part. That's a closed vacuum system.
You do realize that 12 volts will not shock you right? Its not enough voltage to arc from any surface to your dry body. Dont believe me? Go out and grab both your positive and negative with dry fingers, nothing will happen.oninous said:Do you ever get a shock when getting out of the car? lol That could indicate a short.
isn't it the amps that gets you?
Thats what causes the "punch" yes. Here is the copy/paste from wikipedia since it explains it better than I can
In the water flow analogy sometimes used to explain electric circuits by comparing them to water-filled pipes, voltage difference is likened to water pressure difference–the difference determines how quickly the electrons will travel through the circuit. Current (in amperes), in the same analogy, is a measure of the volume of water that flows past a given point per unit time (volumetric flow rate). The flow rate is determined by the width of the pipe (analogous to electrical conductivity), and the pressure difference between the front end of the pipe and the exit (analogous to voltage). The analogy extends to power dissipation: the power given up by the water flow is equal to flow rate times pressure, just as the power dissipated in a resistor is equal to current times the voltage drop across the resistor (watts = amperes × volts).
The relationship between voltage and current (in ohmic devices) is defined by Ohm's Law.
In the water flow analogy sometimes used to explain electric circuits by comparing them to water-filled pipes, voltage difference is likened to water pressure difference–the difference determines how quickly the electrons will travel through the circuit. Current (in amperes), in the same analogy, is a measure of the volume of water that flows past a given point per unit time (volumetric flow rate). The flow rate is determined by the width of the pipe (analogous to electrical conductivity), and the pressure difference between the front end of the pipe and the exit (analogous to voltage). The analogy extends to power dissipation: the power given up by the water flow is equal to flow rate times pressure, just as the power dissipated in a resistor is equal to current times the voltage drop across the resistor (watts = amperes × volts).
The relationship between voltage and current (in ohmic devices) is defined by Ohm's Law.
Luminar is on the right track. I always considered DC, especially at 12V, to be very safe. That may be true but some googling shows DC can be just as dangerous but usually at higher than 12VDC. A couple of more articles:
http://pchem.scs.uiuc.edu/pchemlab/electric.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock
http://pchem.scs.uiuc.edu/pchemlab/electric.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock
From what I remember, its the current that kills.
OK blah blah technical, yadda yadda. I'm sure all that information is correct so instead of wasting time reading it, I'll just assume you're saying that getting a shock everytime you get out of your car doesn't mean you might have a short in your electronics somewhere. OP, Google "shock when I get out of my car". But it would be easier if you ignore all this useless banter.
P.S. DC is waaaay more dangerous than AC. That's why we dont use AC in our houses.
P.S. DC is waaaay more dangerous than AC. That's why we dont use AC in our houses.
AC is short bursts of alternating current which gives you the kick, push, punch, ir jump when you get a shock.
DC is constant current which freezes your muscle convulsions and holds you there constantly frying you.
That's why they dont use it in houses but electronic deviced use AC to DC converters. AC doesn't work well in electronics or cars
DC is constant current which freezes your muscle convulsions and holds you there constantly frying you.
That's why they dont use it in houses but electronic deviced use AC to DC converters. AC doesn't work well in electronics or cars
Having these kinds of educated discussion is what makes this forum so great.
Did you know the safest place on the human body to get hit by lightning is the buttocks? Seriously... LOL
You obviously didn't read the yadda yadda yadda in the articles or else you're being facetious about the above.oninous said:AC is short bursts of alternating current which gives you the kick, push, punch, ir jump when you get a shock.
DC is constant current which freezes your muscle convulsions and holds you there constantly frying you.
That's why they dont use it in houses but electronic deviced use AC to DC converters. AC doesn't work well in electronics or cars
Did you ever grab hold of a leaky DC spark plug wire; your muscles convulse alright, just watch your elbow doesn't jam into the hood as your arm if fired away from the wire.
Spark plug wire is effectively AC. It doesn't use a direct current or it would be constantly sparking. The electronics in the car use DC. Like the battery. For instance, your cars battery is DC. It supplies power to the distributor. The rotor is constantly energized so when it is spun, when it gets close enough to a contact in a the cap, it shoots current down that line and causes a spark briefly. The current is alternated on and off.
P.S. You backed my point up by the way.. without knowing it.
P.S. You backed my point up by the way.. without knowing it.
Spark is generated across the plug gap by a DC voltage, the current for which is minimal at first as the voltage tries to form a spark across the gap, peaks as soon as the spark is initiated consuming the energy in the voltage rapidly, followed by a declining voltgage and die-off of the spark as the voltage/spark recedes to zero. It's like lightning. It goes one way. DC.
The spark is continuous while the voltage is applied and doesn't occur again until the distributor or electronic ignition sends the next shot timed by the position of the crankshaft/piston to cause spark at the right moment for maximum combustion pressure as the piston is topping out.
The spark is continuous while the voltage is applied and doesn't occur again until the distributor or electronic ignition sends the next shot timed by the position of the crankshaft/piston to cause spark at the right moment for maximum combustion pressure as the piston is topping out.
The current alternates on and off. Like I said. When it cuts off, that's why you get your kick you talked about. If it was constant, you would stick there. Look it up on google/wikipedia or whatever. DC shock/electrocution and ac shock/electrocution cause the exact behavior I described. Technically, if you are being shocked with DC, you will stay there until the current is interrupted. You are just implying that is not the case and I'm explaining that the current to your plugs is interrupted in between sparks. When it is, you get the jump.
The DC current convulses the muscle which makes your hand jump. But it you are determined to hold on, yes the periodic current will cause damage. And, yes, I agree if the DC is constant you're going to get "fried" if it has time to overcome the high resistance of dry skin surface as the current dissapates moisture in the skin. AC because it is cyclic causes fibrillation of the muscles or loss of control. As far as grabbing, it depends on what you grab, constant or cyclic.
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