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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody out there removed paint from their Z? I know the sheet metal is fairly thin for automotive body work so I was wonder what the best process would be ( aside from the costly chemical dunk tank). I just bought a sandblaster and was wondering if there was any particular medium that was most favorable. I'm dealing with ,as far as I can tell, 5 layers of paint, and enough surface rust to make most people through up their ams and walk away. I plan on containing the blasting so I can reuse the medium so the recycleable stuff is also an option. Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appriciated.

SpencZ
 

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Yeah , I would have it bead blasted !.
Take off the bumpers, lights, turn signals etc,
or tape off whatever. The more stuff you do the cheaper
it is. I would guesstimate around $250-300 .
You'll have it back the next day and won't have to
dink around with chemical strippers, plus it's taken
down to bare metal and you'll see how must rust
repair you'll need to do.
 

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SpencZ, I Gotta Ask...

If you didn't want a rusty car, why'd you BUY a rusty car?
I see really nice Z's for sale in my travels all the time. Most of 'em are garage kittens and they need a bit of engine, upholstery and body work, but that stuff's a lot easier and cheaper to do most times than cutting out rust spots.

Rust also has a very high probability of recurrence, which I take into consideration before I spend money on a nice paint job. Even when you eliminate all the rust you can see, there may be more lurking beneath the metal surface ready to eat its way out through $4,000 worth of primer, paint and clear coat.

I've restored a few cars and motorcycles in my day, some of which were pretty far gone in various ways, but I won't touch a more-or-less common machine that has rust on it with a 10-foot non-magnetic fork. It just doesn't make good sense.
 

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Plus, rust is reality with Zs, even w/ queens

I've seen a number of "rust free" cars, and unless someone else has already restored the car, there's always a spot or two somewhere. My "rust free" 77 chassis which I picked up in January has a couple of spots, like in front of the rear wheel wells by the rocker panels because the factory never primed the inside surfaces of those panels. How can there not be surface rust on those after 20+ years in the elements.

Surface rust is easily dealt with if you blast it and etch prime.

Plus, I don't think he's talking about swiss cheese rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
RE: SpencZ, I Gotta Ask...

**** Straight...I looked far and wide all up and down Maine and New Hampshire and only found rust. I'm not as fortunate as you guys down south who see cars with 300,000 miles on them every day. Up here the road salt will destroy a car with a little over 100,000 miles unless it is stored winters...which none are. Believe me when I tell you I was not impressed with the condition of the body on my car when I bought it but I only paid $200 for the car and it could have been driven away (ie. everything worked..including the engine). Us Mainers have learned to utilize our resources to the best of our ability. My car is presently stripped...I mean chop shop stripped...no moving parts...no more bolts to take out...stripped. I know there are a few areas that will be hard to derust but I have a visual of every rust area I will be dealing with, so I'm not concerned about any rising up after my paint job is done (and who spends $4000 on primer anyway??) . Won't it be great when my car is finished and everybody is gawking at it...up here in Maine people don't see cars like this too often. Then I'll whip out the archive book and show them how far the car has come...
 

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Spence, Ol' Buddy...

I'd tattoo this on the back of my eyelids if I were you: "1. There's no good price for a headache. 2. Just because everybody else is doing things wrong it doesn't mean you can't do 'em right."

I've lived in some rust-begetting climes before, and when I'm after a specific car or bike, I compose a list of questions to screen out the bad deals and go get the machine I want in the condition I want it.

Everybody claims their car is mint, of course, so I ask 'em questions like "What color is the exterior and the upholstery?" If the seller says he's got a Purple '83 280ZX with a really cool chartreuse and yellow flame job, and the interior used to be black but he's painted it pink, I just thank him for his time and keep on looking.

Now I've never bought a plane ticket from Bangor to Yuma, but I'll bet it costs less than derusting and rust-proofing a car that's been soaked and salt-sprayed for 7,000 straight days. Throw in the price of shipping a Z-car cross country, and you've still got yourself a bargain.

Who pays $4,000 for a paint job? Me, more than once, and the jobs were worth it because they were absolutely flawless by the time I handed over the checks.
 

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<b>The Sand Blaster is the way to go</b>

In cases where ya can put the parts in to a booth do it... This way you can recycle the sand... Parts that can't, or don't fit... I would sand them down with the D/A, Longboard, and even an orbital on those tight areas. Then sand blast what is left. This would help conserve the materal, and the expense of additional material. The goal being to make an indelible impression deep enough to remove any fears of the rust returning.

Spencer, This is always hard work... Its a long way around your car. To make it easier, focus on one area at a time. Don't move on until your completely satisfied with your work.

Is there any easier ways... Yes, spend the bucks and have the parts dipped... Is it cost effective... only you can answer that...

Its not like we're looking at an early 30's Packard.. when you already have an idea of the value of the finished product to govern the input of resources.

Remember, A good job is well worth doing... and if you don't have the time to do it right the first time, what makes you think you will on the second time.

Spencer, I think ya got it in ya to do it right. I also think your not afraid of hard work. Now get out there and get something done... so we can talk about how cool and fast it is!

Dennis
 

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RE: Spence, Ol' Buddy...

Wow, Slim. I wish I had so much time money! Jetting off all over the world just to scope out cars!!

Gee $4000, thats nearly 5 house payments.

It must be nice, oh excuse me I gotta check my lotto tickets!

Rbest
 

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<b>I'am not taking sides but...</b>

I bought a 81 280zx na and found out that I love Z cars.I is a mess,needs paint ,suspension, motor work.But I loved the car,so I decided that I wanted one in better shape,but did not think this car was worth fixing up.So I looked for one for six months and finally found one that is in great shape.It was in New Hamphire and was garage kept most of the time.I live in Georgia and rode a trian to get it and was more than I expected.I enjoyed the trip back down the east coast.So I can understand where Slim is coming from and also SpencZ.

The moral of the story is,If you ever look for a car don't just get the first one you look at.

One Z fellow once said "That the time I spend restoring my Z is the most relaxing time I have"
 

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pay for the acid dip!

I sandblasted my engine bay in 88. I still get sand out of the front freshair ducts. If I was to do it again, it would be a total body dip.
When it's done, it's done! No rust will be in the car, and you can get it electrostatically primed so you have some time to work on it. I checked about 4 years ago, and an outfit in SantaFe Springs CA was doing acid dips for around $400. But you have to remove EVERYTHING. If you're doing the whole car, it's worth it in time savings alone! If it's just a spot repair or a cosmetic freshining, a spot blaster is probably more conveinient.
 

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RE: Spence, Ol' Buddy...

Y'know, after thinking about it, my 71 was a $125 car. I bought it with the intention of "practicing" some body mods on it. Then I got underneath it, and pilled out the new 5-speed the old owner couldn't get into the car (?).
While under there, I noticed: no rust! So I guess my "practiceing" plans are getting put off for another car. SoCal really DOES have some advantages... :)
 
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