If it's worth restoring, it's worth putting a good paint job on. 3K is an average price for a decient paint job, but check out the shops in your area. Sometime just because it costs alot dosen't mean your going to get a better job.
It all depends. I got mine painted for $1300 but the paint job was worth about $3000. (It was show car paint) The color of the paint and kind of paint can changed the price of paint. I can tell you a secret. Go down to a local drag strip and find a car with best paint job on it. (So you know what the painter is capable of) Get to know the owner and ask where he or she got the car painted. Used the owner's name and get to know the painter. I personally went to a local performance shop and talk to a buddy and he introduced me to my painter. My buddy called in before I got to the painter and talk some deal with him. The paint job was immaculate and now I recommend him to everybody I know.
if you can do body work your self then getting it masked off and painted can cost you around 1000 dollars. anybody can do body work. i'm doing a full body restoration and paint job on a metal lawn mower base. i welded in metal pieces. stripped all the paint, sand and etch it, prime it, use body filler all over the pos, use glazing putty to fill in small scratches, sand it and paint it, then sand it and buff it. and i'm only 16 years old. i'm doing this in my power mechanics class at school. i'll put some pictures of it up once i finish it. it's gonna be candy apple red(the real kind, not the one layer paint).
Like Yo2001 says you can get a 3 grand paint job for half that price.
People will pull dings and weld and clean out rust if you make them understand this is what you want. Some get body putty happy, this is bad. The guy I have do my work has this wire thingy that tacks to the little dings and he pulls it out somehow, it’s real cool.
Rust holes need special attention as the area needs to be cleaned well and welded not puttied. I was lucky as all my cars were rust proofed from the dealer years ago but my last ZX had a rust spot even though, so he rust proofed it as well as welding. I, like Y02001 was also able to slip into a wholesale paint crowd, this is very cheap while being of high quality. I could hook you up if you are in South East Florida but what are the odds.
It’s good to stop by daily to make sure they are not trying to pull of any short cuts.
If you are to pay 3 grand they should be little or no bondo.
I was able to have a 1 inch rust hole welded, all dings wire pulled, complete sanding, two tone with clear coat and pin striping to true factory specifications all for a big $1,200.
We were able to have 2 layers of 3mm smash and grab tint with limo over it for an extra 150 bucks. My first super tinting cost twice that but I found a person in the click and saved moe money. The car cost me $1,500 making a total for car, paint and tint less than 3 grand. Then again this is Florida.
i am doing the body myself, i have done a few cars. I buy my paint from NAPA, which is probally the hardest paint to paint with, it takes longer to dry, but it shines the best, and is easy to add extra layers, on the other side, it is easy to et a lot of dust in the paint, so you gotta be careful. I checked in on having a local professional hot rod shop paint it. If i put it in primer (about $300 up to this point) he will spray it for $200(in a paint booth), i had to buy the paint ($400 total, grabber orange). I had to buff the car out(easy, just be careful not to burn through, you could even use a cheap waxer\buffer, it would take longer but it is almost impossible to burn through). The grand total of a professional paint job would be about $1000. I guess it depends on how much you know, and how much time you want to spend
I would not recommend someone doing their first paint job on a car they wish to drive all the time. Here is why? To me the easiest part of painting th ecar is the actually painting of it - it is the prep work that is the most critical. The basic rule of thumb is if you can feel it with your hand as you rub your hand over it, it will be much more noticable when there is bright shiny paint on it. I do my own paint and body but I started out by buying an old junker for $100 and working on it. And there was a lot of re-do. Also, if you go to bare mnetal, you must use the right primer or you will have rust beneath the paint ina matter of a few years.
As far as paint goes, there are basically two kinds that a lot of people use today - acrylic enamel and base coat/clear coat. The acrylic enamel is a lto easier to shoot for a novice and is a lot cheaper. you can put a nice paint job on a car without spending a fortune and if you also clear it (polyurethane) as well, ti has a deep gloss. Base/clear is actually easier once you get hte hang of it since you can correct errors between the base and the apploication of the clear coat. The problem is that the base/clear is high toxic so you MUST (read that absolutely MUST) use a paint booth with a fresh air respirator system (I personally recommend that for any painting but is a must for base clear). Also base/clear paint is a lot higher than enamel but is more durable and will lastlonger if applied correctly.
Also the price of the paint depends on the color as well. Red metallics are the highest and white is the cheapest. Also, do nto paint a car black unless you have done your body work perfectly since black magnifies any errors in body work.
As far as brands, I prefer PPG but Sherwin Williams is also good. Avoid paints from NAPA, etc as they are hard to shoot in my opinion.
that's what my painter said Bob. prep is the key. I had my car down to the metal, primed with self-ething primer, sand down and yellow polyothane? primer before spraying the actual base coat. He went all the around the car to check for flow. Even though my car is black their isn't wave on the side. Thin even coat of paint is trick too. It sticks better I heard
I spent 1500 canadian on a paint job and door swap (not fun in electric everything ZX), but had alot of the metal work done myself and the painter was my freind. I would recomend as previously stated, not to do your precious z as your first paint and body project. There is just too much to learn all at once. There is alot to the prep, as I was there to watch the body man through the whole thing start to finnish. He spent hours and hours blocking and skimm coating to get rid of the slight ripples. (my car was pretty hammered, and probably did'nt deserve the second chance, but looks sweet now. And man, I screwed up a few things, even with three books as reference and tons of questions asked to bodymen. Put asside your Z for a month, and do up a beater in black, just so you get the idea of how it can look so damned good in primer, then look like an accident victim when that black gloss hits (then sell it to some kid for 1500, and fund your paint job). Things like body lines not quite lining up or a slightly sagging door or misalinged hood stand out like a sore thumb, and it'll probably be doing the wave all over. Practice and tons of patience is absolutely necessary to not ruin a nice car. My next project I will do myself, start to finish, if I can get a garage to do it in, and I want to do a complete strip down to the hull, in my opinion the only way to go here in Canada with these rust prone cars.
Hey, you could practice on a junker, or go to a motorcycle salvage yard and get an old gas tank for practice. When you're all done, you could probably take it back and sell it for the cost of the materials. And, you'll have the satisfaction of helping save an old scooter. Gas tanks are pretty easy to work on in the garage...not as big as a car. Be sure to keep an eye on the room temp and humidity, and turn off the heater and hot water heater if they're in the garage. Paint is pretty flamable.
The paint can vary greatly in price depending on what kind it is, what color it is, and where you buy it. I was quoted from 50 a gallon to 450 a gallon depending on the type of paint. Reds cost more than most other colors. You can try your local auto parts store, many of them sell to regular customers, or try http://www.truckpaint.com where we get paint for our business. I am not sure if they sell to anyone, but you can always call them and ask.Jtabora wrote:
> FOR THOSE PEOPLE WHO DID THEIR OWN PAINT JOBS, HOW MUCH DID
> THE PAINT COST AND WHERE CAN YOU USUALLY FIND A PLACE THAT
> SELLS AUTOMOTIVE PAINT TO REGULAR CONSUMERS?
> JOE T.
Look for logos such as PPG or something that says "Automotive Finishes"
Be up front with them, don't try to kid them about being a body shop owner or that you plan to shoot a car a week. They can spot the b.s. blizzard long before you can spout it.
DO tell them that you plan on buying ALL your paint supplies from them, i.e. masking tape, paper, thinner, reducer, gloss hardener, sand paper both D/A and wet / dry. and DO SO.
You might find that they'll go ahead and give you a discount, if not this time, then for sure when you're doing the next paint job or after your 3rd or 4th visit.
If you don't know, ASK! It's easy to pick out the novice when he skimps on wet / dry sand paper in favor of cheaper dry only sand paper. And you'll absolutely leave them rolling on the floor when you decide to buy lacquer thinner instead of reducer for your Acrylic Enamel paint, and let's not forget the guy who wants to find touch up paint for his Candy Apple Paint job. Also, if you are a novice painter, don't try to impress them by telling them you are planning to shoot candy paint and then asking thousands of questions. Trust me, candy is best left to the professionals or at least the VERY experienced amateurs. If you've never painted before, you're out of your league.
And very importantly, if you are planning on shooting Acrylic Enamel be aware that the temperature and humidity on the day that you will ACTUALLY be shooting will be the prime consideration on which reducer to buy, so buying ahead isn't necessarily the best option. In fact, most painters won't get the paint till the day before or the actual day of the shoot.