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Discussion Starter #1
I finally took my 78 to get a couple estimates on getting the paint and bodywork done. The car still has the factory paint but the clearcoat is worn and it has the normal dings of any twenty year old car.Very little rust in a few spots.So with all that and removal of the moulding on the sides and filling the holes .Oh i am also adding the motorsports aero front end only, i was quoted 3,000 by one of the best in las vegas ,2,200by another and 650 by earl shibe.
I was wondering what other people have spent on their cars and what they got for it .
thanks ,jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Try Maaco or whatever their name is. I had one done years ago and it was a good job. Don't go to Earl..........Period..
 

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I have a 72 and i had it painted 3 months ago, the total came to about 3500 dollars. The original estimate was 4300,they did my car as sort of a show car for their work. i talked em way down in price for this reason. They used Standox paint. This was with alot of ding and minor dent removal, i did not have any rust. BEWARE! dont let any bodyshop fix rust with bondo, it will rot out really fast. If the top quality paint isnt a priorty pay a competent bodyshop to do all the rust repair and have macco or someone of that sort paint it.

P.S. Geneva Carstar of geneva, illinois painted my car, truly unbelivable work!! i couldnt be happier with it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
> I did my own bodywork and had a friend paint mine. Good paint alone was 500.00, (Dupont Chroma Base 96 Corvette green). If you really love your car suck it up and go for the best. At least you know they'll do a good job from their rep and you wont have any imperfections. I would have rather paid someone and will next time, although it was a great learning experience.

Mike
 

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Jeff,
I had my '77 done about two years ago. It had original white paint and only minor rust - probably a lot like yours. I had it painted Cadillac pearl red with a white racing stripe, had new windshield and hatch seals put in and had them install the Motorsport Auto Aero II ground effects kit on the car. They Stipped car down. Removed hood, hatch, all windows. Painted inside of hood, doors & hatch but not the engine bay itself. Cost - $2,500. I consider it a bargain. I had quotes as high as $3,500 for just the paint & body work, not including the seals ($200) and the ground effects installation ($200).
Shop around, talk with the body man and the painter - probably different folks. Find a local hot rod club and find out where they get their cars painted. Check with your insurance company and see who they use in your area to paint cars. Take your time to chose - you'll have to live with it every day for a long time.
Phantom
 

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> I finally took my 78 to get a couple
> estimates on getting the paint and bodywork
> done. The car still has the factory paint
> but the clearcoat is worn and it has the
> normal dings of any twenty year old car.Very
> little rust in a few spots.So with all that
> and removal of the moulding on the sides and
> filling the holes .Oh i am also adding the
> motorsports aero front end only, i was
> quoted 3,000 by one of the best in las vegas
> ,2,200by another and 650 by earl shibe.
> I was wondering what other people have spent
> on their cars and what they got for it .
> thanks ,jeff

Take it from someone who has spent MANY MANY hours in a painting booth, to a certain extent, you get what you pay for. There may not be a lot of diffrence between the 2000 dollar job, and the 2500 dollar job. But ther is a huge diffrence between spending 500 dollars at MACCO, and spending 2500 dollars at a nice custom shop. The biggest diffrences you'll notice will be 2 to 4 years from now. If you spend the money and have it done right, the paint won't be peeling, and flaking, and your clear coat will still be good. Also check for how long the shop warranties the work.

Let us know how it turns out.

Chris Behney
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Phantom, Who did yours?

Who did your paint and body and where are they located. I acn't find anyone that will take all the windows out and the rest of the stuff you said they did for you. They don't want to mess with the chrome drip rails or the rest of the chrome or emblems. They want to use alot of tape on my 75. Appreciate any info you could share with the rest of the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
$$ saving

You can probably reduce your costs if you pull all the glass and trim yourself. Its really not that hard with a haynes manual. Since I had to drive my car to the paint booth, I left only the taillights in, which I later removed and I cut off all of the outer portion of the windshield seal. Other than that, I took off all door handles, locks, drip moulding, etc. After the paint job I took it to a glass shop to have the windshield and back window reinstalled. Also got a complete weatherstrip kit from Vic Brit for 199. as it came with the windhsield moldings.

If you go for the budget paint, you avoid any overspray possibilities, if you go for the better you may save a few bucks for only a few hours work.
Mike 72
 

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Re: Phantom, Who did yours?

> Who did your paint and body and where are
> they located. I acn't find anyone that will
> take all the windows out and the rest of the
> stuff you said they did for you. They don't
> want to mess with the chrome drip rails or
> the rest of the chrome or emblems. They want
> to use alot of tape on my 75. Appreciate any
> info you could share with the rest of the
> world.
Probably won't help you much. Poor Man's Paint and Body in Arlington, Texas.
If you have a Junior College in your area that has an autobody repair curriculum you might be able to get it done there - if you can be without the car for quite a while. It took the body shop I used 5 weeks to do my car.
Phantom
 

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Re: $$ saving

How did you get the drip mouldings off, did you leave them chromed...I'd like to remove mine and black them out...Any tips?
 

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Check out this site.

> How did you get the drip mouldings off, did
> you leave them chromed...I'd like to remove
> mine and black them out...Any tips?

You could have them painted, but the paint my not last.

Or, you can do this little trick. Check out what this guy did to his Impala, that blacked out all of his chrome trim. It looks really trick, and is one of those custom touches that really makes a car look good.

Go through and check out how this guy did his taillight blackouts also.
<A HREF=http://web2.airmail.net/bsnelson/dg/myss2.htm>http://web2.airmail.net/bsnelson/dg/myss2.htm</A>

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

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Re: Check out this site.

> You could have them painted, but the paint
> my not last.

> Or, you can do this little trick. Check out
> what this guy did to his Impala, that
> blacked out all of his chrome trim. It looks
> really trick, and is one of those custom
> touches that really makes a car look good.

> Go through and check out how this guy did
> his taillight blackouts also.
>
> <A HREF=http://web2.airmail.net/bsnelson/dg/myss2.htm>http://web2.airmail.net/bsnelson/dg/myss2.htm</A>
> Chris Behney
> Redline Autosports

It looks great Chris, but I got this thing about putting tape on my car.
I want to do the same thing and am looking into powdercoat. I think with proper prep it will yeild desired result with best longevity.
Ought'a look hot with yellow paint job!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
drip moulding removal

> How did you get the drip mouldings off, did
> you leave them chromed...I'd like to remove
> mine and black them out...Any tips?
They come off rather easily. Start at the rear and twist the end towards the car as you pull up.
btw, I painted all trim on mine, with the exception of the locks, with Rustoleum outdoor (indoor/outdoor?) satin black. Light sanding first, rustoleum primer and then the satin. Some pieces had to be re sanded after priming due to fisheyes, just be patient. I also let them cure for about a month before I put them on, and it hasn't chipped yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
black paint part 2

I'm not real sure about what type of rustoleum I used, but I think the can is green and white with iron lawn furniture on it.
 
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