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1975 280Z 2+2 4 speed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm slowly inching towards the final day for state inspection, and I already bought a MSA exhaust, (which will be here tomorrow) But I was going to get the header pipe 2 into1 and the next one back Ceramic Coated, but I also have on the car now, the resonator which takes the place of the Catalytic converter on Federal cars like mine, but should I replace the resonator ? I'm not saying I can even find one, but should I replace it ? This picture just shows the front half or it, and is it worth it to ceramic coat the shielding as well ??? Thank you !

Blue Wood Fixture Gas Electrical wiring
Tool Line Bicycle part Nickel Gas
 

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1975 280Z 2+2 4 speed
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it got here today, and I'm still wondering, does the resonator change the sound ? or is it just there for exhaust backpressure ? I'm going to Ceramic coat the downpipe that bolts to the stock cast iron exhaust manifold, but I think before it goes to the exhaust shop, I'll use VHT silver or black high temp paint on the rest ?
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Yes, the resonator will change the sound. In the cabin is where you'll appreciate it the most. Check this...
If it were me, I would not paint the rest unless I was going to be driving it in the elements a lot. Oh, not to mention it will likely annoy the exhaust shop that they have to grind off any paint you added if they plan to weld your system together.
 

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Since you have a 2+2 you'll need an an extension some where to accommodate the length of the car to the exhaust. Perfect place to put a resonator.
 

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1975 280Z 2+2 4 speed
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I have a resonator now, but of course I don't know when and where it was installed, (With this car it might be the original equipment) The MSA kit has a length or extra pipe in it, but I like to fix an unexpected situation before it becomes unexpected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If it's driveable, I suggest you get it through the emissions check, then worry about any changes you decide to make.

Funny you should mention that Pilgrim, Oh it's very much drive-able and will be much better once I get the Brakes and clutch done. But I reached out to PennDot PA dept. of transportation, just a email about my "Emissions Situation" and 3 days later the state called me, and understood that the car is 47 years old and that that year, 1975 was a non-compliance year for all cars not sold in California, which my car is, and even called the shop who is going to do the state safety and emissions check, and set it straight that my 280Z is going to be given a pass this year, and since I don't drive more than 5000 miles a year, I'm no longer required to be checked for the Emissions check once a year. But I do have to keep it fully safe for the regular yearly inspection. But I was surprised that they even read email ?
 

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Hey Tango,
I also live in PA. I have a 71 240, series 1. Just apply for an Antique / Historic vehicle title and you NEVER have to get another PA inspection, emissions, or renewed registration! You can make all the mods you want without the inschpektors ever touching your baby. Cost about $75 for the change in title. Choose wisely, you cannot change it back.
Good luck.
 

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The photo you show of your resonator is the factory unit.
I have your car, under a tree, in my back yard in SoCal! 1975 Federal 2+2... It's a 'chassis spare' for our bonneville car, and is complete including all emissions tags. I picked it up because nobody could smog it back then... and now... it doesn't have to be so it could 'go live' any time. Another project with no time to do it.

Removing your resonator will change the sound, I highly recommend with the system you have to run a stainless steel 2 1/2" cored glass pack that is the required length to make the 2 seater system fit in your 2+2, I ran an 18" or 24" one in mine, and ended up cutting a few inches off each pipe to fit the glass-pack under the driveshaft same as where your resonator is... but that gave me the length needed in my red 12/74 2+2 as well as my Grey 76 2/2 (RHD). It's a great system and I prefer the downpipe on the stock manifold as it really keeps it quiet. When my 2 seater 260Z broke a manifold I was forced to go with the header and the noise out the back really went up, had to rejet the carbs, all that. It was nice and stealthy before, nobody saw me or noticed me coming or going... including police, and that's the way I liked it!
 

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BTW, I may be headed to Pittsburgh/Export/Jeanette within the next two months. Seeing anybody with car stuff beats dealing with droning engineers at the Corporate HQ...
 
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1975 280Z 2+2 4 speed
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The photo you show of your resonator is the factory unit.
I have your car, under a tree, in my back yard in SoCal! 1975 Federal 2+2... It's a 'chassis spare' for our bonneville car, and is complete including all emissions tags. I picked it up because nobody could smog it back then... and now... it doesn't have to be so it could 'go live' any time. Another project with no time to do it.

Removing your resonator will change the sound, I highly recommend with the system you have to run a stainless steel 2 1/2" cored glass pack that is the required length to make the 2 seater system fit in your 2+2, I ran an 18" or 24" one in mine, and ended up cutting a few inches off each pipe to fit the glass-pack under the driveshaft same as where your resonator is... but that gave me the length needed in my red 12/74 2+2 as well as my Grey 76 2/2 (RHD). It's a great system and I prefer the downpipe on the stock manifold as it really keeps it quiet. When my 2 seater 260Z broke a manifold I was forced to go with the header and the noise out the back really went up, had to rejet the carbs, all that. It was nice and stealthy before, nobody saw me or noticed me coming or going... including police, and that's the way I liked it!

Hi Tony, I recently decided to get a MSA exhaust from one of the suppliers, and I was surprised to see it was made out of 3" pipe with welded flanges. So now I'm wondering if keeping my OEM resonator (which has the smaller pipe in and out) will cause a problem. The kit supplied will still need my exhaust shop to add a 12" section to accommodate the longer body of the 2+2, but it does come with a Walker 17615 muffler. I plan on painting the entire exhaust and I have the 3-2 downpipe being ceramic coated as we speak. I never did this before so I'm running on you folks guidance. :unsure:
 

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Instead of a pipe section, install a stainless steel bullet muffler 3" In and Out... that will perform the same function as the resonator. If the inside has punched louvers instead of simply drilled holes, install the opening of the louvers to the BACK of the car (this would be in reverse of normal orientation) - this gives better flow and performs more of a Resonator function than a muffler function. That will give you the length. There used to be an 18" bullet glasspack muffler out there, and I would use it as well. In fact, way back on my first 2/2 I used the MSA system and cut the pipes shorter to splice in an NOS 36" 2 1/2" in/out truck glasspack. The tubing at that time was 2.5" so it worked SUPER. That thing was QUIET! The addition of headers kind of made it louder... but the performance I got on an L28 was 147 rwhp and that's **** good for a STOCK CAST IRON MANIFOLD with an MSA converter to 2 1/2" exhaust system downpipe and a big truck muffler spliced into the middle!
 
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