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i changed my oil today. i've read how hard it was but i didnt think it would be that hard. mine wasnt stuck but it was a b*&#$ to get to. not a whole lot of oil came out so im not sure how much to put back it. i just put oil in until the dipstick read full.
 

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will you people stop crying about the oil filter, it's not that bad, get the car on a ramp, pull the starter out, YES the freaking starter, it's only two bolts, takes 20 seconds if you have air tools and about 2 minutes if you don't, slide that out of the way and you can get to it with NO problem, and it will not cover your starter with oil.
 

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wear a long sleeve shirt and you can take off the oil filter off from the top of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i didnt wear a longsleeve and i did it from the top. i took it off from the top but got it back on from down under.
 

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Getting it off and on from the top is very easy once you get used to it. Only takes me about 20 minutes to do the oil on my 300zx which includes jacking the car up into position. As for how much oil check your car manual. The 300zx takes 4.25 quartes of oil when you do an oil change with filter change, takes about 4.0 quartes if you don't change the filter. Also incase you couldn't figure it out the manual calls for 10W-30 oil
 

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Wow Ive never once had a problem taking the filter off my car from the top, takes about 1 second to pull it and screw another one on. The whole oil change process takes a max of 15-20 minutes id say.
 

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Oil filter upgrade:


Why?

Because a larger, better quality filter will increase oil capacity some, oil cooling some, and also hopefully filter your oil better.


Which filter?

I use the Pure 1 "PL3001" filter that is an equivalent for the filter for the 88 Ford Mustang with H.O.302ci V-8.

This particular filter is supposed to filter finer particles and filter them for a longer period than most others. Also the price is not too bad for an upgraded filter ($6). Has a teflon coated seal.


How to do it:

Since this filter (Mustang) is larger, it can be difficult to get in and out of where it screws onto the block. To make this easier, I modified the sheet metal frame that mounts the cruise control so that it is easier to remove it in order to R&R the filter.

The cruise control is held in place by (2) screws, the one on the right being difficult to get to. I solved this by removing both screws first, I then clamped the RIGHT mounting tab in a pair of vice-grips and using a fine-toothed hacksaw, cut a slot to the side from this hole (horizontally) to allow just loosening the right side screw enough to slide the frame out, instead of having to remove the screw each time. You do this without disconnecting any hoses, cables, or wires.

Removing one and loosening the right side screw from above is much easier than removing the starter.


The actual filter change:

1) Jack the right front side of the car up off the ground some at a jacking point. This allows getting to the oil drain and allows room for a drain pan.

2) Disconnect the neg batt clamp. You will be working very near the hot wire going to your starter. You might want to verify that the rubber cover over the solenoid hot wire connx is intact.

* Note: with some years of Zs, there might be a clearance problem vs the solenoid with this larger filter.

3) Remove the cruise control and lay it up on top of the engine. Do not remove any hoses or cables from it.

4) Assuming a large filter is already installed, use a sheetmetal strap type filter wrench or rubber strap type to loosen the filter. This might have to fit between the filter and the starter in some cases. Drain the filter into the pan below and then pull it up and out.

*If you have air cond, you might have to move the line that is in the way, over some...this can be carefully bent (by hand only) over so the filter will clear it, but you need to be careful to not kink it, and do not bend it near a fitting.

5) Wipe a layer of fresh oil on the new filter's gasket, work it down into place and screw in hand tight. Try not to drag it around on the block any....try to hit the threads on the 1st try....AVOID GRIME.

*Don't bother trying to clean the mounting surface on the block (unless you have leakage there), you'll just likely INCREASE the chances of dirt getting in the wrong places.

6) Replace the cruise control securely.


* Note: I use the above filter for 7K miles in an NA, also using synth oil. Cost is around the same for 2 oil changes using dino oil/cheaper filter and is 1/2 the work.

* Other filters and methods are AOK by me.

* Most of these ideas were picked up from others on the z31.com board.

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/


Misc info???:

1st gen 3.0L Taurus V6 filter is bigger & fits I have no clearance problems on my 88 T.


on most z31 engine setups you can use a fram ph8a or compatible i did that once on my 87t engine in my 86 just because my dad had an extra one lying around for his 240




Notice: If you use, share, or distribute this information, you do so by your own choice and at your own risk.
 

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Ahh yes, the great times of changing the spark plugs. And I can vouche for that too, Matt. Oil changes being hard, they're in for a rude awakening...lol
 
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