O2 sensor not warming up enough. Using MSA turbo DP

How old is O2 you are using now Comrade?

4000 miles? So...not very old. Probably good enough with old school ECM but not sensitive enough for new school MS.
Y0RGO use heated O2 in may turbo'd auto which had not heated as standard. Difference noticed every time.

JuanitoZcarito said:

It's not a huge problem but my o2 sensor isn't running hot enough at idle. Everything is in good working order. I have just gone from an oem efi system to megasquirt.

Now my main question is , is it possible that MSA down pipe has the thread hole set to far back compared to oem which it is? And that the metal exhaust walls Aren't retaining enough heat? I am about to go to a heated o2 which should respond about instantly after warm up. Upon start up after engine has been warmed up it'll stay in open loop running rich until I rev it up some. The idle eventually smooths out but the o2 doesn't oscilate like it should. Only when I get on the gas. Thanks for any help in advance!

Click to expand...

1) You diagnosed your own question: "Everything is in good working order"---your perception of what should happen is simply wrong! The unheated O2 Sensors DO NOT work at idle! The never have, they never will. Not enough heat.
2) There is nothing wrong with the MSA downpipe, it's working EXACTLY like the OEM pipe in terms of O2 Sensor Function.
3) Heated O2 Sensor is what was recommended since 2002 when I installed my Megasquirt. Same as my old recommendation to put a heated three wire sensor into a STOCK ZXT. Once the ZXT ECCS gets into closed-loop, it will STAY in closed-loop until the sensor cools down---for around town stop-n-go driving this can mean considerable gas mileage increases. Someone here independently tried it and confirmed this as well. A$$hats still argued, but I'm sure more try it and just smile...
4) If you have appropriate software, getting a wideband that has an adjustable switching point will allow you to run your same closed-loop setup and go closer to 16-17:1 AFR on light cruise and really up fuel economy. Or use target AFR and determine the breakpoint where you want to go to the 'power afr'... though this is NOT a substitute for proper mapping of the base map. Biggest problem I see with people is they depend on the WBO2 to do the tuning for them, and as a result have a crappy running car. It becomes dependent on the O2 to compensate and if you aren't in steady-state conditions, it's always lagging due to haveing to make such big corrections from the base fuel map. Closer the base map is to ideal, the better any O2 sensor works!

In short, there is nothing wrong with your O2 sensor. If you read the FSM you will note the stock O2 Sensor would not activate unless you are above 2000rpms for a couple of seconds. It WILL turn off and you go on preprogrammed fuel mapping at idle. Incidentally, the car should NOT be on the O2 sensor at idle, simply as they usually idle best richer...and that is around 13-13.8:1 AFR, not the 14.7 the O2 will correct the mixture towards. There is a configuration box in the O2 correction section of the MS to allow the tuning parameters to be input---mine is set to come on at 1500rpms and control to around 3600 rpms, and anything above 70 or 85kPa as I recall... Anything below or above that and you're not looking for economy, you want to be richer for performance.