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There is one other thing that causes the dash lights to come on and ties to the alty. Behind the cabin fuse block is an lamp check (LC) relay. On the cars electrical diagram it's called bulb check relay see FSM page El-63.

It uses the alty voltage sense line to trip relay if alty isn't working as expected and that turns the dash lights on. I'm not sure on how to test the alty for this issue but there's likely some general online testing procedures since altys all work the same way.

Hoping this is a connection issue since needing to pull a brand new alty would s*uck!
 

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jzack got me curious about the "charge" or "alt" light.
There's a great article on alternator systems here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
scroll down to "Alternator Warning Lamp"

Some food for thought. Check EL-25 for the charge light being in parallel with other lamps via pin 24.
I believe the Ign Sw is used to pass hot wires from various relays to ground such as wire 24 (EL-25) of the charge light to ground. That comes thru a fuse.

The other side of the charge light goes to a pin on the alternator.
There's also a second Ign Sw ground (I assume) that comes from the Bulb Check Relay thru a fuse.

The Check Bulb doesn't show on EL-66. But on EL-25 if the Check Bulb is getting power on pin 4 it could feed back to the other bulbs shown on EL-65 to the wire on pin 24, EL-25.

Haven't quite figured out the workings of the relay where one side of the contacts goes to the connector but no wire shown coming off it. You may want to check those two fuses in case the charge light isn't getting voltage from one side or the other.

Or maybe the connector between the bulb relay and alty.

Food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
LOL......literally.
I was on mobile reading your reply, after a long weekend of camping and drinking. That was the only appropriate reply I could muster at the time.

But thanks for some of that "food". The only thing about this job that I question is if I installed the additional grounds correctly to the alternator itself. There are 2 ground straps: one to a large lug and the other to a small bolt that you install on the alternator body. Was this suppose to be mounted to a specific location. The casting on this new alt was slightly different than the OEM one. I just chose a threaded hole and mounted it.

I checked this morning and I my battery is a solid 12.5 volts just sitting there, and 14.5 with the car running. Are the warning lights that much of a concern. Can I just drive it. Other than checking a few fuses, and running some codes, I am not sure I will be digging much further. Fall is here and I need to prep my other vehicles.
 

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Hope you've recovered.

No expert here but the large lug should be to isolate a ground to body for the high amp internals of the alty as necessary and the small, you would think, to ground the housing to the body or engine.........wherever that smaller wire comes from.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I think I have a lead. I searched the topic and a TT.net thread popped up. One guys said that he has similar issues with a bad/corroded connection to his CAS. Other than warning lights his AC stopped working due this issue.

I went out to the car and started it. Went and wiggled the connection and the car died. Car won't start. Wiggle it some more, no start. wiggle it some more and she fires. I think I will explore this lead.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
When this warning light thing first started to happen, I had the following lights:
-abs
-3rd brake light
-alt
-e brake
-seat belt

The seatbelt went off the 2nd drive. This morning the abs light started to flicker. I put it in neutral and gasses it. At high RPMs the e brake and the ABS light will go off. They come back on when the revs drop.

I am thinking that it really has something to to do with a bad connection.

Just a pointless update. Happy Thursday ( Friday for me).
 

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You may be onto it. Attached files were done when I thought I could get replacement connectors for the cluster harness. [ Possible but if you buy 100 at a time or a couple of hundred dollars group. ]
The diagram is not fully checked but you can get the idea of the connector that feeds the lamps you mentioned. Could be a loose screw in the circuit board or the connectors may be "dirty" or loose. Note the connectors press on copper strips on the circuit board; it's not a pin and socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
I think the saga is more or less over. Over the last couple of weeks the Z has been my daily driver. This means several times a week, not daily, but as daily as any of my vehicles get.

The warning lights continue to flicker, dim, and act erratically. However the general trend is less lights.

This morning they were all gone. We will see if this last.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I think I have finally resolved my issue. At high rpms it also sounded like I was getting a buzz from under the dash. My aftermarket keyless stopped working last year. I jiggled a big wiring bundle and it stopped making noise, and the warning lights went off.

Fall is prime Z DDing season for me.
 
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