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Yes, those rails are not facory and the floor was patched.
 

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Looks like they cut it out around it and tac welded it in. Where are you, Joker. Are you looking for an S30 or will an S130 do?

How much money do you have to spend? You should be able to find one in pretty good shape for about 5.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I am in Montreal Canada, it is nearly impossible to get a car in good shape around here, plus i have another problem, i am on a limited budget, that being said i am in no way looking for a perfect car, but i want one with limited rust.
I have been scouring Ebay and Craigslist for weeks, looking in the Texas/Arizona/Cali/Nevada area, 3000$ is about what i can afford right now, plus i have to factor in shipping on top of the price of the car. I am looking for a S30 preferably 71 or 72. I have been in contact with a guy in Texas, he's asking 2700$ for a 71...the only thing that scares me about this project is rust, i don't mind investing money over the years to make the car great again, rust just scares me, especially when i read all the stuff you guys say about rust haha. Would you mind if i posted some pics of the undercarriage of this one? you've already given me some very constructive comments about the last car i posted so i'm sure you could help again...not just you but anybody else that has an opinion please don't be shy...
 

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We are more than happy to give our opinions on any car you show us.

As for cars, I know how hard it is, but don't give up and don't give in. Wait for the right car. When you find what you think is a good one, post here looking for someone in the area to personally inspect it. Also check the local Z clubs and post on their website looking for help. A trained eye will find way more than what the seller will tell you or show you.

For $3,000 you should be able to find a nice Z with minimal rust. It won't be perfect, but it will be a good, solid starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I honestly think this one in Texas is a good candidate...it just needs some love...Here are a few pics...I realise the undercarriage is dented on the first pic...is that a big issue? probably expensive to fix...anyways let me know...
[attachment 16719 Floordent.JPG]
[attachment 16720 NewImage.JPG]
[attachment 16721 hatch2.JPG]
 

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Those floor dents will pop right out. I had one in my '78 and with a few precise hits with a sledgehammer, it popped right back into the factory shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
that's good news...what do you think of the rest of the undercarriage? it seems pretty rust free right? i will try to get some more pics from the guy...what do you think of the hatch?

i feel like my wife when she asks my opinion about furniture haha
 

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shell rust VS integrity

A quadriplegic way to see if car body is strong, despite looks, is to check first how door will open n close then door gap around it, then lift car as high as possible from ONE wheel (front one mandatory) same side then check gaps...at last try opening n close door as easy as B4 lifting...if also legally blind just tape door all around gap then lift one wheel same side n look for creases on tape..if also lazy tape passenger side door (right side more prone to desintegrate) drive n stop pass. wheel in a big bump n observe either tape or gap n opening
 

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Discussion Starter #51
wow that is some great info t5...thanks a lot i had no idea you could verify the integrity that way. The problem is that i will most likely be being a car online so i can't really use that trick.
 

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Well I am not so sure about that 1st one. And the 2nd one is rather vaguely listed. It says the engine is needed to be rebuilt, but that could mean anything. Could cost you a few bucks, could cost $1000 or more. All about odds. If you wanna take the chance on the 2nd Z, go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
yeah the brown one seems like it has a lot of hidden problems for some reason. As for the second one it does indeed seem decent, i even bid on it when it first opened however the description is very vague and i decided not to persue it.
 

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joker1981 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> wow that is some great info t5...thanks a lot i
> had no idea you could verify the integrity that
> way. The problem is that i will most likely be
> being a car online so i can't really use that
> trick.

it does not apply for every car, some GM's for instance flex, a lil to much to the point of some shops will pull the t tops before been lifted..some corvettes to pinch/shatter ttops glass when lifted

(lifted improperly is irrelevant, they do flex)

ZX to remain solid, I guess 240/60 where build the same way
 

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t5turbo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> joker1981 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > wow that is some great info t5...thanks a lot i
> > had no idea you could verify the integrity that
> > way. The problem is that i will most likely be
> > being a car online so i can't really use that
> > trick.
>
> it does not apply for every car, some GM's for
> instance flex, a lil to much to the point of some
> shops will pull the t tops before been
> lifted..some corvettes to pinch/shatter ttops
> glass when lifted
>
> (lifted improperly is irrelevant, they do flex)
>
> ZX to remain solid, I guess 240/60 where build the
> same way


When I had my Z on jackstands for about a month I couldn't open my pass door at all. But as soon as I set it down the door opened fine.
 

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N/Adriver85j Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> t5turbo Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > joker1981 Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > wow that is some great info t5...thanks a lot
> i
> > > had no idea you could verify the integrity
> that
> > > way. The problem is that i will most likely
> be
> > > being a car online so i can't really use that
> > > trick.
> >
> > it does not apply for every car, some GM's for
> > instance flex, a lil to much to the point of
> some
> > shops will pull the t tops before been
> > lifted..some corvettes to pinch/shatter ttops
> > glass when lifted
> >
> > (lifted improperly is irrelevant, they do flex)
> >
> > ZX to remain solid, I guess 240/60 where build
> the
> > same way
>
>
> When I had my Z on jackstands for about a month I
> couldn't open my pass door at all. But as soon as
> I set it down the door opened fine.

assuming you have a different gen Z so I do not know if is of concern, try 2 weeks nex time n post results :) :)
 

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I was just passing on the info that I've experienced body flexing from a uni-body car with T-tops. Same concept with a few differences
 
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