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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all-

New here and just had a couple questions. I searched on these, but couldnt really find the answers I was looking for. I am a novice when it comes to cars and repairs.

I just inherited a 82 280ZXT from a friend, and it needs some work.

1. When I accelerate, I hear a clicking/knocking noise, but it seems only to occur when the car is switching gears. The car is an automatic. I press the gas, it clicks and barely accelerates above 10mph, i let off the gas and reapply softly, and it will seem to catch, and the car takes off. This always happens when the car is cold, but very rarely after i have driven it a few miles. Any ideas?

2. When I turn on the A/C or the Heater, I get air blowing out of only one vent, the one on the floor by the passengers side footwell. I checked all the switches and knobs, and it should be blowing out up top but it doesnt. Also, the air never gets cold. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance! :)
Joe
 

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Tranny Low on Fluid?

A/C needs freon, Vacum lines, First places to start. Might also check to see it the duct work is still in the dash.

Zdale
 

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The air is problably the hoses going out of your air boxes that are either disconnected or rotted out and are dumping all the air, cold or hot straight out of the heater box holes to around your feet. You can rebuild it with some new hose and some cheap rubber weatherstripping.

-BlaZed
 

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Kradokk , where are you located? I have a turbo auto you can have but I live in florida and shipping ain't going to cut it.(83)
 

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On the trans I suggest a fluid and filter change, a lot of auto trans never get either. If you have the auto ac in your car then it could be a number of things. Need to check all your vaccum lines especialy the 2 coming through the fire wall near your a/c lines. Should be hooked up to a small vaccum pump thats compensates vaccum when turbo spools up. On my 83 T I disconnected the pump and put in a 1 way check valve. But I also replaced the auto a/c for a manual system. Back to the trans and noise, where does it sound like the noise is coming from trans, engine rearend?
 

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Broken exhaust manifold stud on cylinder head causes exhaust leak, especially under acceleration. As manifold heats up and expands, sometimes the clicking noise becomes less pronounced. Requires R&R manifolds to fix.

Run some Techron in the gas next fillup to clean injectors. Pull the three plugs on the ECCS brain box and apply penetrating oil (ie CRC 5-56) to the terminal pins. Also apply this treatment to all the EFI-related plugs under the hood.

If you have ATC air, you have my sympathies..... check all vacuum lines up front and repair any leaks you find by snipping the hose ends or replacing the hose. Be very careful about yanking on vacuum lines going thru the firewall (don't do it) Cross your fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

The air is the Manual control, and I checked in the passenger side footwell again, and it seems that the problem with the air getting dumped out there has to be a problem with hoses, so will spend some more time with that.

I checked the ATF and fluid is low, so I am going to add some once I get a funnel small enough to fit in that tiny dipstick tube.

Flipflop - I appriciate the offer but I live in the San Francisco bay area, so I would be a bit tough.

Thanks again everyone.
 

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A/C replace all the hoses, install new weatherstripping (I bought it for cheap at Lowe's--get the black foam stuff and the sticky back light grey foam stuff- worked great and improved system efficiency- I ussed it to seal the connections of the ducting and put felt padding on the top side of the door above the heater core to help keep the cold air cool) Check vaccum control mudulator ( the round metal wheel connected to the cable on the back of your heater a/c control panel (mine was off by one setting). Apply suction (vaccum) to the door flap modulators. They should move, if not, replace.

Trans: Replace filter and fluid first. Check sensors on tranny. If problem not solved put car up on jacks and have someone turn over the engine and run the car in Drive to get the tranny to shift gears-use an automotive stethoscope (sears $15) and listen for internal noise in the tranny. There should only be a whirring noise and slightly high pitch gear noise. When the autotranny shifts their should be no clunking noise-if not replace tranny. When tranny is removed, check torque converter. Ratate it-there should be no internal noise. Check output shaft for to and fro endplay-there should be none or less than a 1mm.
 
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