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OK, 55 is good, you're one step closer to home.

red300zxtt300 said:
next turn motor on and while its idling. pull the connector on the coilpack one at a time replacing it after you take it off. which ever one you take off and make no difference to how the motor runs is the cylender with the problem.

when you find which cylender(s) is wrong with car off pull the coilpack and the spark plug and see if its plug gapped correctly and if it smells of alot of gas or its completely dry. if its really dry then take the clip off the injector for that cylender and clean the connector REALLY well. also take a multimeter and ohm the injector out. 12-14 ohms is within spec (sometimes a injector will work when its not in that range but expect to have to change it soon.) If the plug is covered in gas then find the ptu on the front of motors timing cover and pull plugs apart and clean REALLY well. that should get you well on your way to solving your misfire problem or atleast begin to solving your problem.
I'd do that next. It will tell you whether a specific cylinder is causing the issue(fuel, spark etc) or if it's something that's effecting all cylinders at once(air, fuel pressure, timing, etc) How's your airfilter? maybe some mice have made a nice home up in there.

Smelling gas is common in the Fall. as it gets colder, fuel lines may leak... check the plenum for gas smell and tighten up everything you see.

Let us know what the testing of coilpacks does (assuming you can get it to run)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
sounds good i will give that a try... main thing is will it run long enough for me to pull each of them one at a time... ill try it. im wondering if its something as silly as the gas guage is broken and that the tank is to low to keep it running for any extended period of time. the guage says 1/4 tank is left. i may head to the local gas station and pick up a gallon or two just to see if that does anything, but ill try that after i try to test what you mentioned first

thanks again for your help
 

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I would look at the air filter first....

Can you give us more color commentary on the car's history..?
Did it have to pass smog where you live??

Mike
 

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check what i last said. that kind of a first to do when somethings wrong other then running the codes obviously...

since you said it sits at about 400rpms and slowly dies out then try this:

if you can rev the motor up and it will stay running and engine smooths out then i would start at the MAF sensor which is behind the air filter and follow the piping and make sure there is no holes anywhere. if there are anyholes it will make your whole car run really crappy and without a doubt make it stall out. i wouldnt worry about the motor getting wet cause i doubt water is puddled up anywhere.

then check all vacumm lines around motor to see if one popped off. you probably hear hissing if you put your head around the motor. this will cause car to die out.

clean all connectors and see what cylenders are not working. odds are your injectors died or theres bad connection considering there is no codes. if cleaning everything does not work and you are possitive the motor is misfiring and its not just a hole in your piping somewhere then its time to test your ptu(on your left side timing belt cover its square)

If you test that and its working then its time to a pressure test on your fuel rail to see if you have a pinched o ring at the injector which is dumping gas into the motor. if you cannot pressure test it then my suggestion to you would be to pull the relay all the way on the right inside the box in front of the battery. it is tiny and it wll shut off your fuel pump. then crank motor over several times. after doing that put the relay back n and try to start it and see if its starts up and idles normal for afew seconds before gettin strong gas smell and dying out. if it does then most likly its a pinched o ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
ok this is what ive concluded... if your standing at the front of the car, the first one to your right, im going to call #1 because i dont have a book this is how im labeling the different coil packs

6 5

4 3 Driverside of car

2 1

Front of car is here


Ok, if i disconnect each one, one at a time, and attempt to start the car i get:


the car starts and idles poorly when # 1,2, 4,5 are disconnected, obviosuly one at a time

when # 3 and when # 6 are disconected, the car will not start at all

Hope the illustration makes sense and that ive used the correct terminology
 

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sadly, to say i have ran out of gas in my z afew times and usually its dies out smoothly instead of idling bad and slowly dying out. you can try new gas since you use it anyways but i dont think thats your problem.

you need to run the test while the car is idling. if you start it and slowly hit the gas pedle will it rev up? make sure you hit gas pedle slowly. will it rev up or die out.

your car will not start if it was only runing on 2 cylenders. you need to go one by one and dont skip around. if you pull number 1 and the idle stays the same then leave it unplugged that one is not working. then repeat with each cylender. dont try unplugging then starting the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The cars history ends in 2006, when someone purchased a radio from best buy for it... im not sure who had it but i dont have the records after 2006. in all fairness to the car though, yes it had a rough idle yesterday, but i did drive it 2.5 miles to my house and shifted between 1-3 several times and at no point did it act like this. so ive seen it run smoothly even with the idle issue. if i try to add any gas when it first starts, even a little, it dies immediatly. it wasnt doing that yesterday before it got rained on, and like one of you said, there was no water pooling or anything like that.

im trying to run it again like one of you said, and then pull 3 to see what it does. i also tried to remove the fuel pump relay, crank it a few times, put the relay back in, and try it, like someone mentioned to see if its a crimpled o ring in the injectors, and it does the same thing as its been doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
are any of you in the northern virginia area that may be able to help look at it with a fresh set of eyes

ill keep trying all of your recommendations
 

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Before we get upside down
The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6

#1 is passenger side twds radiator
5 6

3 4

1 2

Mike
 

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Ok a bit more education....

The CAS ( the round thing on the front of the cam cover drivers side ) is in effect your distributor.. this sends pulses to the ecm

The ECM sends pulses out to the PTU & injectors.....

The PTU is the logic change between low current & high current ( big buffer switch)... and THEN goes to the coil packs to make sparky...

The CAS has 1 connector... the PTU ( pass side opposite CAS if STOCK ) has 2 ( or more )...

The PTU has 2 versions..
Type 1 has an aluminum heat sink on the back ( facing the cam cover plastic ).. and was WAY PRONE TO FAILURE..
Type 2 has just a flat metal backing.. AND a kludgy adaptor... to go from type 1 to type 2..

So the PTU can have up to 4 connectors to inspect for stuff....

Injectors... consider these a service item...
about 60 K ISH the coils can ( and do ) open up... ( Long reason's why )...

1st as your cleaning all your connectors under the hood... have an ohm meter handy.. and measure EACH injector
10-12 ohms your good...
OPEN=bad
13 and above=bad...it will still work.. but like a tire showing steel cord.. FIX IT...

2 ways to change injectors...
1) The Dremel method... ( quicker.. cheaper.. unless you GRIND to much ) do a search AFTER you know how many you might have to change..

2) Manifold pull... the " RIGHT WAY" but at that point you will want to do ALL of them..plus a bunch of hoses, pvc valves.. etc etc..


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #33
ok i tried the obvious and went and got 5 gallons of 93 octane gas and put that in there. gas guage moved, so that works, but its doing the same thing. im going to run an ohm test on each injector like you said, and also check the other connectors.

fyi i did find water inside on the the larger connectors running next to the radiator shrowd across the front of the car. i cleaned it up, and am going the check the sensor with 2 connectors coming out of it on the passenger side opposite of the one that you called the distributer.
 

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y87fcar said:
fyi i did find water inside on the the larger connectors running next to the radiator shrowd across the front of the car. i cleaned it up, and am going the check the sensor with 2 connectors coming out of it on the passenger side opposite of the one that you called the distributer.
Now we're getting somewhere. I assume that's the PTU connections (In vig's pic)you are talking about("connectors running next to the radiator shrowd across the front of the car") I'd highly recommend some di-electric grease to put inside all connections once they're dried out and green free.(it will keep them that way) Assuming it's the PTU connections we're talking about, did it look like some plugs had been replaced? This was a recalled part, if the PO never got it fixed that may be your culprit.

Also a sidenote depending on how newbie you are, if it's struggling to idle while you mess around under the hood, there is a throttle cable easily accesible along the middle of the plenum. Just give it a tug.

Air Filter
Gas (additives... or better yet as much fresh stuff as possible)
PTU connections check/recheck/grease
OHM injectors
Maybe check timing for good measure? (no pun intended)

So far you're doing better than most new guys. keep it up. She's a high maintenance b*tch but she'll put out when you treat her right :)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
yes the picture of the ptu looks like mine, and its all cleaned up... not starting still. im going to ohm the injectors
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ok have to ask a question about ohm checking the injectors

1. is the injector the 2 prong one a few inches away from each coil pack, has a red plastic connector on it?

2. when i test the injector, i put my ohm meter on 20Mohm and check the 2 terminals on the injector with the meter... im getting .40 on the first.... is this correct or does the injector need to be taken out. im testing the injector while its unplugged

also i did notice the first injector has water inside the plastic cap where the contacts are
 

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1. yes.

2. not sure the setting, I always just flip the settings until I get a value of 10-13 or something.
 

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whoops, I meant 12-14(assuming it's in spec)
And I'd recommend getting some compressed air to blast out all those connectors of air/water. that's definitely BAD.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
im seeing 0.86 with the ohm meter at 2K settings. not sure which one to use... got all the water out though. ill go ahead and do the others
 
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