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Hey guys, I purchased a 280z yesterday. So far the body is clean and has minimal rust, there are some signs of being repainted in some areas. The engine is toast, but I am not sure to what extent. The previous owner said the oil pump gave out and based off the pictures with the valve cover off I think it needs a complete rebuild or replacement. Anyone close to MD have a L28 or L28ET?

I am sure I'll have plenty of questions...but here are a couple pictures and questions to start.
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Question 1: What is this lever and this button? Is the button original?
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I would imagine if the cam was pushed up this hard there was definitely contact with the bottom end.
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The previous owner had some things in the engine bay taken apart previously and may have not put it all back together. I saw a few hoses that were not attached, any idea where these go?
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1. Switch to turn on brake warning light.
2. Choke for carbs.
3. That engine is all kinds of messed up. Serious carnage..
4. Vacuum hose and coolant overflow hose for missing tank.
Depending on your budget I would check with Datsun Spirit or put a want to buy an L28.
 

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Your post says 1976 280, but the '76's came with an L28 with Fuel Injection, not carbs. Also, your front bumper is not from a 76, but the turn signals are. That doesn't make it all bad though.
 

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hmmm....title says 1976, the vins all match on the car itself(havent looked at engine vin yet...

Are there any web sites to get build sheets based off the VINS?
 

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Your post says 1976 280, but the '76's came with an L28 with Fuel Injection, not carbs. Also, your front bumper is not from a 76, but the turn signals are. That doesn't make it all bad though.
Question for you/all... My radio antenna is currently up with aftermarket radio and I am assuming it's locked in the upright position. Is it safe to push it down?

My transmission feels like it had 5 gears and the top is code is 7329841, any info on it? Here is a picture under if that helps at all...
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The head of the engine is def an N42. I've located a new engine and I think the fuel injector wires are still in the engine bay, is this them...I'm not sure why the previous owners would have changed it to carbs...
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I'll bet that puppy made an interesting noise when it let go...

If it's a power antenna, I don't believe it can be muscled down. If you can tickle the motor, you can probably do it.

Those look to be some of the original plugs. You'll probably have to have the engine out, an FSM, and a good wiring diagram to take a proper inventory.
 

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Carbs are common swaps when people give up on the OEM Bosch LJetronic fuel injection. Seems like previous owners did some good work, 5 speed is an upgrade and the carbs look good. Destroying that L28 not so good.
 

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My '76 had Webers swapped onto it when the fuel injection gave up the ghost in the 90s. There wasn't a wealth of information online and the guy the PO brought it to didn't know how to work on the older Bosch EFI system or where to source parts.

You have SUs which are more correct for the car than my Webers, and they're very easy to tune (just a nut on the bottom of the carb).
 

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wow what a mess of and engine. SS braid on the evap,now that is a upgrade, geez.
I did not see any oil holes on the camshaft, mate that with a no spray bar and duh should last about 1 minute.

I don't understand how people can be so dumb. Anyway yea you are going to have tear that engine down just to see what other prizes you have, but hey, you got nice blue plug wires.

I see its AC equipped that is a good thing if it works. Its missing the AC idle up vacuum servo, that should be there if you plan on using it.
 

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HandyManny24, Hopefully you got a good deal on the car. It does look very nice inside and out. Looks like you may have saved a nice z from someone that doesn't know that much about z cars. Look at the vin tag on the drivers B pillar post. The top right corner should have a month and a year on it. It is a 76 Z from looking at the engine compartment. Very few 75 cars came with dual fusible link holders. Most of them used a single one. As far as changing to carbs go, that's usually because the owner doesn't understand these old efi systems or can't figure out a running problem so they change over. The button by your parking brake handle is usually covered up with the boot. When the handle is down the button is depressed and the brake warning light will go out. Dave M. nailed it on the engine. The cam grenaded because the PO put in an externally oiled cam and didn't install an external oil spray bar. My guess is someone had upgraded to the newer cam towers that don't use a spray bar and then put in the original style cam instead of the hollow cam. The end result is in the picture. The bottom end may still be good, same with the head, but you want to at least pull the head, the oil pan, and the oil pump. Then flush the oiling system which isn't hard to do. All the cam journals are toast, the cam and all the rockers as well of course. Anybodies guess on the valve stems and guides. Easier just to change the engine outright. I'd be interested in the short block, with or without the head if the bottom end is still intact. I'm looking for all the N42 blocks that I can get my hands on, so long as they're rebuildable. As far as the antenna goes it depends on which type you have on how they go down. They won't usually push down though. Another thing I'd be worried about is the way your battery is. It's not secured and is an accident waiting for a place to happen. Factory Nissan hold down bracket is the best way to go. You'd need a 6mm bolt with washers to secure it to the firewall, and a J bolt. Stay away from the cheap J bolts in the stores, use factory Nissan. You're of course missing the factory overflow bottle and the mounting bracket for it. The braided SS covered hose goes to the distributor. The transmission is a 77-80 5 speed. You can tell because it has a coarse matte finish on the tail shaft housing. The other styles are all smooth finish on the tail shaft housing. You need a new reverse light switch on the trans. The plug ins you were holding are an aftermarket replacement called a quick disconnect efi connector which is a great upgrade. I've got all the items needed in stock. If you do get them from me be sure to mention that you use this forum. That qualifies you for an automatic discount ranging from 5% to 30%. Z man of Washington 360-668-2979
 
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I am in Md and I happen to have an L28 sitting on an engine stand and another L28 yet to be removed from a parts car if interested. The engine on the stand was pulled from a 1982 280zx 2+2 that I used to own. The manifold studs were replaced during the time I was driving it with new Nissan studs. The engine is an ATK remanufactured engine with a bit more than 70k miles on it when it was removed from the car.
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Here is the parts car and this power train has and it has 132k miles on it. It was last started and running in 2007 when I sold it and I bought it back in 2017 with no increase in mileage as it had been stored. The engine will spin freely.
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