[alex]

I'm replacing my fuel pump on my 76, and the new fuel pump is different, terminals are different and in different spot on pump.

On the new pump (Motorsport rebuilt, looks like the one in my Hanyes manual), the terminals are of different size. Does the positive lead go on the bigger terminal or the smaller one?

Or, when you're looking at the inlet side of the pump near the terminals, with the terminals pointing to the ground, is positive on the left or right side?

Any help would be great. Thanks

Alex

 

[alex]

Dummy me, didn't see +mark, but new problem . . .

Ok, I replaced the fuel pump. It turns out, the fuel pump wasn't my problem. That's ok because the old pump was getting a little noisy, so it was probably about to go anyway.

But I think something is up with my ignition relay or switch, or maybe my ignition module. The car won't start. I couldn't get the fuel pump to come on originally, so I hot wired it direct. I can hear the new fuel pump, but it won't fire. just cranks and cranks.

Any suggestions. This whole thing started when I ran my battery dead after driving to work. When I left work and realized the bat was dead, I rolled it 10 feet to a good incline and tried popping the clutch (always worked before). But again, the car just wouldn't fire up.

I betting ignition relay, and I think I have another one lying around, but I thought I'd post this in case that didn't work and somebody had another idea.

Thanks, Alex

 

[Unknown User]

Re: Dummy me, didn't see +mark, but new problem .

Did you check the fusable links on the front right fender well

 

[Joshua L.]

Re: Dummy me, didn't see +mark, but new problem .

My 83 did the same thing. Yours would not start because you did nto have enough juice for the EFI by rolling it down an incline, I have tried also. You needed a jump. Okay, my problem was, after replacing the fuel pump, was the wiring up by the battery. The corrosion got inside the insulator of the pump lead and had eaten it away, giving me intermittent juice to the pump. Replaced that, works like a charm. Another concern though may be the wring on the pump, if it is backward, pumping fuel into the tank, it will run and run because the fuel pressure never gets high enough to shut the pump off. Change the wires and it should shut the pump off after a couple of seconds after there is pressure. If you have a gauge for fuel, put it on the line right before the fuel rail and check the pressure. Make sure you have pressure. Good luck,
Joshua L.

 

[alex]

No, how to test? I need to buy a voltmeter, but

> Did you check the fusable links on the front
> right fender well

Why would the fusable link just blow like that? I left the fog lights on, which are wired direct to the postive terminal of the battery. How do you know if a fusable link is bad? They look the same as they did before.

I haven't tested the fuel line for pressure, but when I had the new fuel pump hot wired, I pulled the hose coming out of the fuel filter and got a good shot of fuel, leading me to believe that I have fuel pressure.

Maybe I ought to take off the air inlet boot and test to see if the fuel pump is coming on when the Air flow Meter flap opens. I don't think it is.

I'm convinced its an electrical problem.

Thanks for your help so far. I have to move the car soon and I miss driving her.

Alex

 

[Unknown User]

Re: No, how to test? I need to buy a voltmeter, bu

>The links get old and corrored.Just stick a piece of wire in there in place of the link to test, lowtech help is all im good for.
Dave
Why would the fusable link just blow like
> that? I left the fog lights on, which are
> wired direct to the postive terminal of the
> battery. How do you know if a fusable link
> is bad? They look the same as they did
> before.

> I haven't tested the fuel line for pressure,
> but when I had the new fuel pump hot wired,
> I pulled the hose coming out of the fuel
> filter and got a good shot of fuel, leading
> me to believe that I have fuel pressure.

> Maybe I ought to take off the air inlet boot
> and test to see if the fuel pump is coming
> on when the Air flow Meter flap opens. I
> don't think it is.

> I'm convinced its an electrical problem.

> Thanks for your help so far. I have to move
> the car soon and I miss driving her.

> Alex