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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Probably the best idea. No use doing things half-assed. Couldn't see a lot in there, but didn't see anything that looked colloidal. Could see some metal on the bottom. ****, I touched the bottom. Felt okay. Remaining gas will have to be hand pumped, with the syphon I believe. That self draining phase is over.
 

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Good tip. I'm hoping I don't have to drop the tank. If I can get the fuel sensor out.... Cleaned the battery posts/cables today on a lark. Hooked up a good charger for an hour and a half. When things warm up tomorrow I'll try cranking it. It's likely I'll be heading to Costco (San Antonio).

Until a couple of days ago, I was under the impression that I couldn't syphon the gas thru the filler tube because of the anti-leak valve. Just read a blurb in the Haynes Repair Manual that said you can. My siphon is too short, however, dammit. Also, the manual said that if the battery is dead, then a jump starter won't do the job - or something like that.

Will know more soon.
They're right. the battery runs everything. The alternator only refills what the battery uses.
 

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Did you ever check the ECU codes? I'd check them first as a starting point as they may clue you in to the problem. For example, my car stalls from cold start and idles poorly. I ran the ECU codes and got 22 for Fuel Pump Circuit. Even though I still think the problem is the IACV, it's a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Did you ever check the ECU codes? I'd check them first as a starting point as they may clue you in to the problem. For example, my car stalls from cold start and idles poorly. I ran the ECU codes and got 22 for Fuel Pump Circuit. Even though I still think the problem is the IACV, it's a starting point.
This car has always started and run smooth. I'll drop that battery in in the next day or so, check the oil, add some premium gas and there may be no need to look at the ECU codes.Fingers crossed by only problem now is that all my gas cans are filled up. A friend is supposed to bring me one Wed.
 

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Make sure you have a good quality gas can because the cheap ones leak from the fill nozzle and get gas all over the car. Have some cloth or microfiber rags ready with some warm soapy water or a spray bottle of dish detergent diluted with water in case gas spills on the paint. It'll take the paint off the car. Good luck getting it running, I may be interested in it. Post more pics if you can.
 

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Bro, you really do need to run those ECU codes. Z31's are over-engineered and can be finicky. And its possible that your fuel pump and fuel might not even be your problem.

check out www.xenonzcar.com the Z31 section and read it in its entirety. Good troubleshooting resource.

You mentioned that you were starting it while it was sitting for a time and it was working and then suddenly it wouldn't start after a time. I may be a bit confused, but I have to ask.... when it wouldn't start, was it cranking over at all? were you getting any electrical power at all when you turned the key? and finally, did you check fuel pressure to the manifold? or even to the fuel filter? If you were getting any fuel to that point, then you can rule out a bad fuel pump or sender unit. Those intake fuel pumps are not really known to go bad on these cars. If you're not getting fuel up to the engine, then looking at the tank is relevant. If you are infact getting fuel and still not starting, then you may have a spark issue. another note, Z31's have a little coil ignition pack. And these tend to stop working after a time. If it goes bad, you're car will never get ignition. Just something to look at if you determine that fuel is not your issue.

Forget Haynes.... download the Factory Service Manual for the 85 Turbo 300zx.... everything you need know about troubleshooting steps directly form Nissan are in this book.

When you do plan to sell, what price are you looking at? I might be interested :)
I recently sold my 84 AE and I regret it so :(

Good luck,

Bon
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Sorry for the delay in getting back. Sometimes things get in the way. First the good news. Drained the gas, closed up the back end. Then before putting the new battery in and cranking the ZX, I decided to give it some good karma by cleaning it up. Took a few pics.
Tire Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Automotive parking light Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Automotive tire

Car Vehicle Automotive parking light Hood Tire


The scoop on the hood of a Turbo Z is cool looking. Sets it apart. I think the turbocharger still works, fwiw. You can see the sides are in good shape.

Also working, I believe, are the electric windows, the antenna retractor, Driver's seat adjustments, interior light dimmer, clock. hatch release, gas tank filler release... just about everything else except the shock absorber looking thingies that keeps the hatch up. (Wonder if a little oil might help those?).

The car has a custom sound system with includes an Alpine cd player/am/fm radio (detachable face plate), a 50-watt Alpine amp under the passenger's seat, two tweeters and a speaker upgrade near the legs.Also a subwoofer in the back. Doubt if the speakers are all that good any more, but you never know. I still have the original radio in a box.

Also of note is that circa 1995, I got had a nasty little dust devil cross my path that dinged the hood and windshield enough that I got a new windshield and a nice paint job (original blue-black color) from a high end body shop on Hwy 290 West of Austin. Having a crystal clear windshield is really nice.
More info next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Now for the nitty gritty. Emptied the tank. Added 4 gal of new high octane. New battery is modest, but the car cranked like a maniac. Kept trying to start, but wouldn't quite get enough cylinders to fire to keep it going. Before I cranked it too long, I decided to drain the gas between the tank and the engine using the fuel pump. Finished that this evening. Took out about 1.5 coffee cans worth (Decided to replace the hose running from the filter to the engine, so I didn't try to start it. (13 oz cans) (smaller ones).

Couple of questions: Sure, it probably needs a new fuel filter, but would a dirty one actually keep it from starting. Disconnecting that sucker (especially reconnecting it) looks a little daunting.) But what say you?

Secondly, here's a pic with two arrows.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Gas


I found what looks like a major vacuum hose completely disconnected (arrow on the right). It fits over an outlet below the white fiberglass part below it. Could that have been the problem? Anyone know where in the heck that leads? Up to the front of the car, then disappears somewhere under the headlight. Will reconnect tomorrow.

Also, left arrow, there's an electrical connector (with wires) that doesn't seem to have a receptacle. I'm thinking it has always been there. Anyone know otherwise? Gracias to all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Don't think I can really call it a start. If I floorboarded the gas, the engine could kick off. I could release the starter key and it would run for 30 seconds are so - but extremely extremely rough. Felt like there was only one or two of the six cylinders firing. I'll go back and look at the suggestions so far, but as it stands, anyone want to chime in as the best place to begin. I was thinking of pulling the spark plug wires off at the distrubutor, one at a time, to see if each is getting a spark. Yay? Nay? Or do I need to do this at the spark plug? They're hard to get to, but I've changed plugs many times. Risk screwing up one of the wires. Then maybe cleaning the contacts inside the distributor - easy enough to do. There may be a good video on Youtube on Cleaning the Injectors...

Thanks, in advance, for the suggestions.
 

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Did you have the car floored for the entire 30 seconds it was running? (very odd)

There are some problems with the engine management system. Have you ran the ECU self test? The self test will give you some places to start looking.

Checking every plug for spark is always a good idea. Since you have some spark, it is running sorta, I would suspect a fuel or air issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Did you have the car floored for the entire 30 seconds it was running? (very odd)

There are some problems with the engine management system. Have you ran the ECU self test? The self test will give you some places to start looking.

Checking every plug for spark is always a good idea. Since you have some spark, it is running sorta, I would suspect a fuel or air issue.
Thank you Thansen for the leads. I don't believe it was floored the entire time. I probably pumped it a couple of times. Then it died. The gas came out fast and clear when I filled up those coffee cans. I'm starting to think that just to be sure I got all the old gas out of the fuel line that I should run a little more out. That line from the tank is 6 feet long with an inside diameter of what, 1/8"? Those cans hold about a quart...

Just did the passenger side plugs. They were black, so I cleaned them. They were gapped too wide (.47 to .50) so I cut it down to .42. Had a heck of a time getting one wire back on the plug. I remember what a hassle changing plugs used to be. Don't know if it's good news or bad, but it didn't seem to make any difference getting it started. So it's likely something else.Distributor is relatively new. Looked pretty clean inside.

Your mention of an air problem could be important. I assume you're talking vacuum hoses. If that could cause this, then it's worth scouring the engine area for a leak, because those hoses are old. some more.

Others have mentioned the ECU test, so I guess I'll look into that this eve if I'm not too tired. That's the ECCS, right? looks like about 20 possible trouble codes.

Very frustrated. This car has always started and run smoothly. Then the battery wen't dead, I didn't try to start it for a year, and now this. I was really thinking the new battery and new gas would do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Haven't scoured the engine compartment for a long time. All the vac lines appear to be intact and connected. Noted two locations where there appear to be unused vac lines, one near the firewall, one near the overflow tank. Guess I could plug these, but I'm pretty sure they've always been this way. Next, I guess it's time to pull that ECCS unit from the passenger's kick board. Get some readings. Here are the vac lines mentioned above.

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Any update on this ??
Man, I really dropped the ball on this. Had Covid early in the year and it has just left me tired by the time I get to the weekend.Over a month ago, I pulled the ECU unit out from behind the passenger kickboard. Waited for a friend to help out, but he kept delaying his trip in. Last time I read the instructions for reading the codes, they said to "start the engine..." That sort of took the wind out of my sails, since the engine won't start. I'm going to try it anyway.

Mad at myself, since I put a new battery in a few months back in order to do all this. Just picked up some part time work that may help pay for a mechanic.Outside forces are motivating me, however. May tackle it this weekend. The A/C on my full time car, an Audi, just stopped working - during a Texas summer. I've been playing with that, so far to no avail. Fingers crossed. Things can only get better.
 
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