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Discussion Starter #1
This was responded to line by line but the original post is in limbo...
So here was the original post, dissected as I usually do with replies to each part:

I was in a rush to go to work so rushed through it earlier, have some more time to respond now.

Thanks for a detailed list of components you plan to use and specific, quantifiable goals or queries.

hi guys I have been trying to see what would be the best setup for n/a to turbo/w n/a block and head. so far here is what I have done.
****there is no real "best" the head porter is what is important. Really what you plan on making horsepower wise determines what you want to seek out, but in the end "go with what you have." The differences are not materially enough for 99.9% of the people out there.

compression 8:6.1
forged 2326 custom made wizco pistons
****this pair is really a waste of time. $600+ for something that WILL break during your learning to tune the EMS. Stick with Turbo Dished or Flat-Top STOCK CAST ITM replacement pistons to keep the compression in the 7.4~8.0 range, and your replacement cost to $200 a set when you detonate and break them. You can tune on these pistons to 475+ Horsepower. Once you have tuned the curve to 7,000 rpms and 475 or 500 HP, then consider the custom forged pistons with high-quench, mirrored image combustion chambered pistons in the 8.0:1 range. You can then complete your WOT power mapping of the EMS for the last power bits in the 7,000~8,500+ range? Use cast to 7,000, and until you've mastered tuning the EMS. Forged comes after that point, Not before.

forged 4340 H beams
****The Chinese Rods are cheap, this is a personal choice...stock prepped rods are good to the 550-600HP Range and 8,500+ RPMS if you have lighter pistons. Below 7,000 rpms, the money spent on the rods is better spent on proper head work and cam.

turbo performance rings
**** not sure what you mean by this. I'd say stick with quality stock rings, and then if you want something like a Total-Seal ring configuration on the forged slugs, do it then. Stick with stock below 7,000 rpms, save the money.

turbo oil pump
****check out JeffP's "Extreme 280ZXT" page on Angelfire, he has a section on how he reworked the Melling Pump for best flow. If you can find it, use the Nissan Comp Pan and External Oiling Pickup arrangement. It is the best thing you will get short of an expensive Gates Drive Pump or Dry Sump system. MUCH more flow when you eliminate the dinky internal block pickup passages.

kinetic mls steel headgasket
****SKIP IT! SAVE YOUR MONEY AND SAVE YOUR PISTONS!!!!! Run a Fel-Pro or Stock Nissan gasket. If you detonate, the head gasket will usually blow out before you sink your ring lands and break your rings. This can go on twice, maybe three times before you're replacing pistons. Once you're TUNED PROPERLY the stock or Fel Pro gasket will hold up JUST FINE at 450hp! Mine has been on since 1985 running 350+ HP. If you don't detonate, you won't blow it out. If you DO detonate, even later on with the forged pistons...you want the GASKET to blow! NOT your expensive pistons!

performance timing set
****If you can get it, Nissan Parts are nice. Get an adjustable timing gear from Kameari, or Tomei. You will need it to dial the cam in on the Dyno.

brass freeze plugs
****personal preference here. Make sure you stake them, and properly seal their edges.

racing bearings set coated
****Childs and Albert have stopped making the high load bearings. Stick to Clevite/Michigan 77 bearings. They have withstood 700+ RWHP and countless detonation overloads in our test mule. They're relatively inexpensive as well! Win-Win!

268 performance cam
****I don't know what this is...DON'T buy a cam "off the shelf" -- get a good Japan Nissan Core, and then call up Ron at Isky Racing Cams (after 14:00 PST)... Talk with him about EXACTLY what your build consists of, and have your head work port flows available. He will grind a cam for YOUR engine. For the same cost as out of the catalog. Why buy off the shelf when you can get the master to give YOU what YOU need!!!

2x 255lph fuel pumps
****This May or may not be applicable. I missed what chassis this is in, but a stock Z32 Fuel Pump in a Surge Tank is more than adequate to run 700HP. More than likely if you are in an S30, you are making a surge tank anyway! Jeff put his Z32 Pump into an S130 tank, using 1/2" fuel feed line.

1000cc injectors
****TOTAL WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY. 550's or 720's will be MORE than you will need to make 700HP. The 1000's will idle like a s s and the 720's won't be much better. If you make the power below 7,500, even the 720's will be pushing it.

arp main stud kit arp2000
arp head set arp2000
****You forgot the most important thing if you decide to save money on the rods: ARP Rod Bolts. These make assemble/disassembly nice.

six puck race clutch kit with lighted flywheel
****Go back to JeffP's page. McLeod is where you likely will end up. Over 400HP things get expensive quickly. Expect the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate to run in the area of $1,000.

1. my question is I am doing this for a turbo build an would like to know what is the best way to go about tuning an or adjusting fuel an spark?
****Integrated Fuel/Spark Computer (aftermarket)... If you plan on running 15+ PSI of boost, and over 6,500 rpms, don't waste your time on ANYTHING using a single coil. Coil on Plug is the only way to go.

2. if I don't have turbo manifold can I use stock header/w custom made turbo flange to mount an run?
****The modified stock L28ET manifold has been proven at over 700HP. See JeffP's comments on his web page regarding the manifold. The tubular header he bought had SMALLER internal runners than the STOCK NISSAN EURO L28ET Manifold! No need to get fancy with tha, weld up the stock manifold as necessary, and port/adapt to match the Turbo You Plan to Use.

3.would it be better to run no clutch fan?
****No, you want a good fan, and good shroud. People screw up more than they fix "improving" the stock cooling system, ESPECIALLY the fan!

4. I also ported intake manifold to match head. how do I wirer in a 240sx tps/w throttle body to increase to 45% more air
****Well, that's nice...but likely there is nothing you hurt. Extrude-Hone your stock manifold, or consider the Group Buy Manifold at Hybrid Z. Mind the fact that an Extrude Honed STOCK intake manifold is PROVEN to work on a 700HP Turbocharged L-Series. The stock T/B is big enough, you can put in the KA24 Body with an idle bypass circuit like the Euro Turbo L28ET's did.

5.what is most common with the 1979 280zx 2+2 as far as timing & tuning is concerned
****That depends solely on factors you have not solidified yet, and no advice is really applicable.

6. what can I expect to see HP wise to gain from all this. if tony D can shout out to me please or anyone who has finished a good build/experience modding out
****It doesn't work like that. You have a laundry list of "silver bullets" but no integration between them. For instance your golden fixation on 1000CC injectors will support 1,200 HP... But there is NO WAY you will use them unless you are running E85! The power comes from making an integrated system, and from selecting components that compliment each other. Talking to Ron at Isky, you learn what your cam will flow at what lift, with that you can tell your head porter to match flow at that lift. The more flow you have, the less boost you need to make X horsepower. People making 380HP with a bone stock L28ET long block boosting to 20+ PSI will need ALL SORTS of intercoolers, Strong Spark Systems, etc, compared to a cammed and ported head on that same short block, making the same power at 8 psi. Boost is merely resistance to flow. The more flow you have, the more power you can make. Power in the L-Engine has ALWAYS been in THE HEAD. Corky Bell notwithstanding!

7. what is the best ignition upgrades that I can do. right now its stock.
****Integrated System, my man... You got some long range decisions to make and plans to lay out.

****WHAT YOU MISSED:
1) Fuel Lines. The stock S130 has over 13psi drop in the stock fuel feed line. This can cause undue stress on the fuel pump, especially at higher flows and pressures encountered under boost.
2) Head Work, waste of time trying to cram it in without head work. Budget $2400 for the head. $700 for the cam and valve train. If you stick with valve sizes close to stock, you will keep the costs down. I have seen valves at $96 EACH for nothing special!
3) Transmission. Go over 350, and your T5 will die if you push it regularly. The G-Force Upgrade is supposedly good to 600Ft-Lbs. So is the TKO/Tremec Box. The alternative is Z32 for up to 700. Below 400, the KA Trannies are cheap and easily adaptable to the Existing N/A Tranny front bell housing/tunnel.
4) Differential--R180 is out. R200 with at LEAST an OBX ATB in it.
5) Driveshaft should have some Spicers installed, and pray your Tripods hold out from the differential to the stub axles. If you start doing stoopid stuff, things WILL break.
6) Turbo, with this proposed level of preparation a GT35X or at least a GT35R is going to be fully utilized. This is the largest Garret Frame that allows the 0.63 and 0.82 A/R on the hot side for good spool below 3,500 and massive pull down low. This will limit you to the 750 HP range to the rear wheels. Going to a GT42 will flow more, but you lose 1,000 rpms at the bottom end...boost from 4,500 up.
7) Intercooler: smaller than you think, and sized according to expected REALISTIC horsepower goals, for best thermal efficiency and minimal pressure drop.
8) I know I left something out...

Your post is far more productive in regards to what you want to do, or where you thought you were heading. It's a good start, you have some decisions to make and budgets to decide upon.

The performance for the L-Engine is almost totally bolt-on in regards to taking off the head. There really is absolutely no need to spend big money on the short block until the FINAL build. For all the impressive numbers JeffP ultimately got out of his expensive forged bottom end...after trashing it three times due to various EMS system issues...he stuck a stock L28 short block in there and is now making MORE horsepower with it than what he made on the cover of Z-Car Magazine! All that money wasted on expensive broken parts killed in tuning when it could have been three sets of $200 ITM Cast Pistons, instead of $3,000 each time...:surprise

This was not my advice, it was given to me by Steven "Stealth" Webb from Alamo Autosports at ZCON '95 when he said "if I had it to do all over again I would have just blown up stock engines while tuning, then used one of them as a core for my "good" final build after I sorted out the tuning!" He said this after he had blown up his race motor tuning on the Dyno the week before ZCON. He rushed out to the junkyard and found a 160,000 mile HYDRAULIC HEAD L28ET three days before they drove out to ABQ from SanAntonio. He was disgusted as they made a pass on his final EMS tune of the "race engine" after they transplanted all the bolt-ons to his Junkyard L28ET and got the same 460HP at 26+ PSI of boost. (The Corky Bell Method.) He then drove it over 3,000 miles in June Desert Heat to and from the ZCON as well as competing in all the driving events...

You don't NEED to do a lot if you don't want to, but making an engine fire reliably at 26PSI of boost is a LOT harder than at 15 psi. Easier on your fuel system components...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This was the original post, titled "L28 NA to Turbo Custom Forged Built Bottom End":

hi guys I have been trying to see what would be the best setup for n/a to turbo/w n/a block and head. so far here is what I have done.
compression 8:6.1
forged 2326 custom made wizco pistons
forged 4340 H beams
turbo performance rings
turbo oil pump
kinetic mls steel headgasket
performance timing set
brass freeze plugs
racing bearings set coated
268 performance cam
2x 255lph fuel pumps
1000cc injectors
arp main stud kit arp2000
arp head set arp2000
six puck race clutch kit with lighted flywheel


1. my question is I am doing this for a turbo build an would like to know what is the best way to go about tuning an or adjusting fuel an spark?
2. if I don't have turbo manifold can I use stock header/w custom made turbo flange to mount an run?
3.would it be better to run no clutch fan?
4. I also ported intake manifold to match head. how do I wirer in a 240sx tps/w throttle body to increase to 45% more air
5.what is most common with the 1979 280zx 2+2 as far as timing & tuning is concerned
6. what can I expect to see HP wise to gain from all this. if tony D can shout out to me please or anyone who has finished a good build/experience modding out
7. what is the best ignition upgrades that I can do. right now its stock.
 

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41,003 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I wanted this up as a counterpoint to those other posts demanding answers with no parameters, budget, nor quantifiable direction other than idle prattle. Obviously, more research is needed on the part of the OP, but this post is a GOOD example of how you get ANSWERS here! and not a bunch of grief. This WAS NOT his first post on the subject, it took several attempts to get enough information into his post where good responses could be given. He didn't throw a hissy fit nor argue...he obviously went an read more so he could "ask a better question"---and hopefully, in the process he learned a little bit about what he wanted to do!

I have left off the OP's Signature and Screen Name until such time as I get his OK to use it in connection with this post. Unless he chimes in and self-identifies. That is his decision, not mine.

I just wanted the CONTENT out there...
 

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the forged build 1979 280zx

Hi the poster he is talking about is me. like he said I still have a lot of info to cove be for the car is in running form I have toke all info that was giving and have made my list to get working on. as I go along I will post an doc/video doc every step I take to post here or my google+.
 
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