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Discussion Starter #1
Well main question is which one would be cheaper. i've seen JDM's on ebay anywhere from 600 to 1000 +S&H. and CZP has the engine rebuild kit for about 1500 for the TT and im guessing na would be similar pricing (couldn't find an N/a kit if he has one). would be doing all the work myself. Would I necessarily need new pistons and rods like CZP has in the kits? from my understanding if the cylinder walls have damage a bigger piston would be required, but if the walls just need honing I wouldn't. Also, is a valve job required?

I'm leaning towards the rebuild so i know what I'm getting but if the JDM is 300-400 less that is appealing. I would like to be in the $1000 range if thats possible for a rebuild. Im not looking for a totally like new engine just one without oil leaks good compression and no electrical issues from a rotting electrical harness. So what doth z godz opinions be?
 

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if that were me... I'd rebuild just to know what I got running under the hood and knowing what all the internals look like. If you take your time in your rebuild, you'll have a **** strong engine.

Head work I guess wouldn't be all that nescessary, other than cleaning build up on the valves and examining the obvious, like chipped valve heads or something.

But then again... if you are mechanically inclined take your time do it right. You'll enjoy it plenty later!

just my .02
 

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Be prepaired... There's a lot more to the cost of a JDM engine or rebuild then just the engine or "rebuild kit". You'll be spending a lot more then you think.
 

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I went JDM 2X... One ( actually 2 ) for my N/A and 1 for my TT conversion...
Looking back, on the N/A I SHOULD HAVE rebuilt,,,On my TT the engine I got is pretty good!. I think if you put a rod thru the block the JDM is the way to go.. saying that.. be prepared to rebuild in 30 K ish... ( if your going to BUILD the car ).

IF you go JDM do all EXTERNAL SEALS, timing belt, throttle body bypass ( coolant ).
water pump, wiring harness ( either way ) and get a warranty for parts AND labor.

MAKE SURE THE OIL PAN IS NOT DENTED!

Mike
 

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My 93N/A put a rod thru the block so I rebuilt a block that I got for $400. I put about $2500 into it, including a valve job, all new bearings/rings/gaskets & wiring harness etc. I also have since put in a new ptu & I am now putting in new/remanufactured injectors( shoulda done before but didn't have the $$$ and they all ohmed out correctly)for less than $300 w/12 month warranty. I am confident this engine will last a long time, it's dry, and I know what is in it, so I will drive it anywhere. It took some time, research and help from this site, but was well worth it. I also know that if something happens to it, I know exactly how this engine is put together from the crank on up. Do the rebuild, and take lots of pictures as you go along.
 

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Building will get you a better engine.. but you get what you pay for.. and IF you build you have all the downtime to consider.. My thinking is I wanted the car back online ASAP.. in reality I could have had it rebuilt for less & a quicker turn around on the N/A.. but I have to say Soken stood behind that engine 150%..
The "mechanic" who installed the TWO engines.. not so much.

JDM engines CAN BE a good value IF you get a good engine AND an experienced mechanic.

The other consideration is am I keeping this car for over 5 years AND going to keep it up, or is it just transportation?

I've been down the JDM road 3X.. next time it's a build for me.. probably with the TT which I'm really happy with currently.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmm JT you have peaked my intrest what are some of the hidden costs you speak of? I have the facilities to do all the work and inherited just about any tool a mechanic could need from my grand father. So right now ive already put new injectors in and done the 120K. So aside from say pistons, rings, rods/bearings, all engine gaskets, oil pump, and a new harness. What else would be needed.

Not looking to have a "built" engine but one pretty close to factory condition.
 

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If you have a stick, you MIGHT AS WELL put in a clutch. If you are going to drop the front crossmember to pull the engine, you will need an alignment, and while you have the heads off, you might as well get a valve job. Those are 3 things that quickly pop into my head. You will just have to draw a line and say, I really don't need that...That's what I did with the injectors, the old ones functioned at the time of the rebuild, but I knew it was just a matter of time till they would be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ahh thanks kanvasman didnt even think of the alignment or the clutch. Any one else have any thing that i have missed?
 

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Consider these costs as just a starter:

Machine work:
Block cleaning
Cylinder boring and honing
Crank micro polish
Valve job
True deck surface
True Heads

Other parts:
60/120K T-belt service kit
Motor mounts (Usually broke)
New engine harness (Usually too brittle and corrodid)
PCV valves and hoses
New water lines
New Vacuum lines
New Fuel lines

How's that for starters?
 

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Gasket set & seals
Chemicals ( cleaners, degreasers, rags ( LOTS O RAGS ) sealant
oil pump
Injectors
Oil pressure sender
( when your that far down )
Get ALL the leaks fixed on the rack & pinion & Power steering.
New Radiator
Fan clutch
Pop charger

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ahh as always allot of good information here at zcar lots of things i didnt think of. however im am leaning towards the JDM now after putting all the parts together +$ for machining it outa my budget. Any good sources for JDM's aside from ebay?
 

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I'd search a local engine "reseller" if you can find any. or a wrecking yard (remember the 93-97 infiniti J30 uses a VG30DE, you just have to swap over plenum, exhaust manifold and a few other parts). OR find someone selling a rearended Z for parts. that way you can get 100% guarenteed milage and you can personally inspect the engine you are about to buy.

I sold my 100% good well running engine from my TT swap to a dude local for 500 bucks. it had 130k on it. And i sold Kanvasman the engine he spoke up that he rebuilt out of a parts car i picked up for 400$ except that i hadnt personally seen the engine run but it appeared to be ok. But eitehr way, that should give you an idea of how much you should be able to get just and engine for. ****, if someone is selling a good longblock, you should still have good injectors and sensors.
 

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I went with Soken Tradin company.. Oscar in North Hollywood.
http://www.soshinusa.com/default2.asp

12055 Sherman Way North Hollywood, CA 91605-3728 - (310) 324-7788

Shameless PLUG these guys took GREAT CARE OF ME!
They do sell on Fleabay!

Mike
 

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I still say if you have the tools and the mechanical ability there is not, much, more satisfying than driving the car you built.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
oh i would love to rebuild the engine for the known good aspect. Just not in the cars. the dream situation right now is get a used engine swap that in to keep the Z on the road and then build the old engine into a TT but that would have to wait another year while i finish school.

I Wish i was in star trek and all you had to do was walk up to a magic box tell it what you want and have it magically appear for free!(im a nerd)
 

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killerchickenZ Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I Wish i was in star trek and all you had to do
> was walk up to a magic box tell it what you want
> and have it magically appear for free!(im a nerd)



I believe the correct terms are "replicator" and "geek". I know because I am.
 
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