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Discussion Starter #1
i am a relatively new z owner and i am wondering if this is something that any one else has heard of. my 280z has been dying out at wierd times and with increasing frequency. the problem used to be limited to when i was driving the car hard in fifth. the engine would just cut and i would have to pull over. the wierd thing is that i would only have to let it sit for about a minute and then it would come right back. recently though it's been dying with a sputter and occasionally a puff of white smoke when i'm cruising in third or sometimes when i put it in gear at a light. now it takes 10 or fifteen minutes to come back but when it does it runs really smooth for another good chunk of time and then dies again later. i had somebody take a look at the fuel system and they said the pump, filter and injectors are all good so i am thinking it's electrical. any idea on what this could be or how to tackle this?
 

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check the dizzy, i had a problem were the car cut in and out. take out the dizzy and give it a good cleaning and a new cap and rotor and see if that works
 

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i would check the fuel pump relay.. or make sure the wires to your pump are tight and not grounding out on anything.. but thats only me.
 

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The transistor ignition module fails from heat and age and causes such symptoms. An easy way to verify is to check for spark as soon ad it fails. Another way to verify is to look at the tach when car fails. If tach drops instantly to 0 then the ignition module is the problem



Post Edited (Oct 19, 3:28pm)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks everyone for the responses

if i do verify that it's the transition ignition module, is it easy to access and replace?
 

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lol I meant transistor. I wish I could type!! And spell!!!!

On my 77 it is next to the passengers feet on the kick panel.

To replace I just disconnect bat -neg terminal then unscrew the philips screws holding the unit to the wall. There are ~ 6 wires and a corresponding screw terminal. I think the 78 has a simple connector.

btw if you feel spanky, you may wish to upgrade to an early ZX distributor and match box ignition module. Check the distributor upgrade in tech tips below.
 

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i had an a vw rabbit with the same problem years ago. there was a broken wire to the fuel pump which would work fine cold and seperate when it got warm. took forever to finally track it down
 

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I would check the pick up coil in the dizzy, if you have a FSM the procedure is in there or check the archives. Heat kills it also. You can buy a can of "freeze it" from Radio shack or whereever and spray the PU coil till it is frosty white after your engine conks out, it should start right away instead of waiting 15 minutes or more. However it will die again after it heats up again., try that a couple times. If it always starts right away after spraying it is more than likely the PU coil. Another thing is to check the transistor ingnition unit with your circuit tester if the PU coil is good it should read 720 Ohms (check when car dies right away). If the PU coil is bad it will read far less than 720 or more. You can also spray the PU coil and see if the Ohm value changes after spraying. If it is the PU coil your Ohms should go right to 720 Ohm after spraying.
 
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