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Discussion Starter #1
I'm really thinking about getting a stage 1 clutch to replace the OEM one I had in my 1983 280zx 2+2 non turbo.

I live in San Francisco so theres a lot of hills. This isn't a daily driver, it's more of a day cruiser/adventure car/roadtripper. I don't race in my car but occasionally I like to go fast but nothing crazy.

I'm looking at a few of these clutches:

1. Action clutch ACR-1362
2. Clutch Masters FX100
3. Exedy 06801A


Are they all the same? There seems to be a bit of a price difference, is it just marketing or are there higher quality builds from more reputable companies? Is there any type of clutch you would personally recommend for my situation?

Or would you recommend OEM over stage 1?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Theres also a super cheap EFORTISSIMO stage 1 clutch for like 60 bucks on amazon and has no reviews, I'm curious if anyones every used it, or if something so cheap would even be any good, I'm very of skeptical though.
 

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If the car is going to retain stock power levels, I'd just go with a stock replacement from one of the Z Car shops (ZCarDepot, ZCarSource, TheZStore, etc). If you were planning to increase power significantly, a centerforce would be a good choice.
 
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If the car is going to retain stock power levels, I'd just go with a stock replacement from one of the Z Car shops (ZCarDepot, ZCarSource, TheZStore, etc). If you were planning to increase power significantly, a centerforce would be a good choice.
Agreed. The stock clutch is just fine for stock engines. No need to spend the additional money and buy a clutch designed for higher power engines.
 

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I've been using Exedy clutch and P plates for 30 years and only had 1 issues with them. That turned out to be driver error. I had to reprogram him how to take off on a hill. He lived in down town Seattle and that's got just as many hills as Frisco if not more. He was starting to get a chatter on take off because he was burning the clutch. After changing his driving habits the chatter went away and he drove the car successfully for the next 20 years until he sold the car. A lot of people make big mistakes when doing a clutch. Before installing you need to scuff the flywheel hard. I use a DA sander with 80 grit paper on the flywheel a lot and even the new pressure plate a little. Then I sterilize all friction surfaces with lacquer thinner including the clutch disc itself. Using a quality product and proper procedures have me at 100% customer satisfaction on clutch jobs. One more tip, whenever you get into a clutch kit or removing an automatic trans. I ALWAYS replace the rear engine seal. I sell the 2+2 clutch kit for 250.00 and to zcar.com users the cost is 225.00. The rear seal is 18.66 each your cost. I use the Exedy clutch kit for more horsepower as well depending on how hard the driver pushes his car. They will take a fair amount of abuse. For more aggressive drivers use the Centerforce 2 or better. Stay away from the CF 1, they're about the same as Exedy at a much higher cost. Z man of Washington
360-668-2979
 

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Rear main seal is always a great idea when removing the transmission, regardless if it's leaking or not. Same labor cost, so might as well.
 
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