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Discussion Starter #1
Car started acting up the other day. It wont go into gear while running. Have to put it in gear then start it, while starting the car lunges. Still pulls with clutch pushed in. Im guessing pressure plate gave out? No noises, completely quiet. Already tried bleeding slave as a quick fix to get it home. No improvement.
 

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i'm not sure what kind of clutch and transmission system was used on the 500z.
i'm not sure that a 500z was made '93. if Nissan built a 500 series Z back in the 90's then they must be way behind, because the current modern Z is a 370.
:grin yes, i'm joking.... just going by what's in the username on your post.

well, i'm going to go out on a limb here and assume that you own a 1993 300zx (Z32)

hmmm, you've checked your clutch hydraulics? master and slave cylinders? maybe your transmission is bad or your clutch may be just worn out. i'd start with the easy things first.

Bon
 

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Sounds like either:

A. one of your hydraulic cylinders is gone.

or

B. You have a broken clutch fork pivot ball.

As Bon said, could be the clutch is just shot, but most times when a clutch is going bad, there will be numerous indicators leading up to when it gives out.
 

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Master cylinder is the first thing that comes to mind. Your local auto parts shop should carry a rebuild kit for $11-$14. Some indicators will be brake fluid drops on the ground, coming out of the master running down the booster and sometimes brake fluid running down the inside where clutch pedal is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Both master and slave are fairly new. Doesnt mean anything though. The slave looks as though its pushing the full distance. Havent checked the master. I did the "heavy duty" clutch pivot ball when i did the engine build. I suppose they are still breakable? As far as the clutch. Its fairly new also. Maybe 10k miles?
 

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Im just going to throw out ideas here. What if one of the tabs on the TOB sleeve has broken off (ive seen this twice before when not being carefull pressing the TOB onto the sleeve, during a clutch replacement, as these are just cast iron parts) and the fork is only appying pressure to one side of the sleeve. Maybe this MIGHT cause the pressure plate not to fully disengage, since the fork will be flexing. Try removing the clutch fork boot and look inside.?????Might be worth a try
 

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Have you tried adjusting the clutch??

If so, did you tighten the nut back down on the adjuster rod?

If that is all good, what type of clutch disc is it? My south bend failed last year in a similar fashion. When I pulled it out, I could find nothing wrong, no broken springs, no missing face material, is just wouldn't disengage. I tried changing both the master, and the slave, no difference. Only when I trashed that pos clutch did it start to function again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Have you tried adjusting the clutch??

If so, did you tighten the nut back down on the adjuster rod?

If that is all good, what type of clutch disc is it? My south bend failed last year in a similar fashion. When I pulled it out, I could find nothing wrong, no broken springs, no missing face material, is just wouldn't disengage. I tried changing both the master, and the slave, no difference. Only when I trashed that pos clutch did it start to function again.

I did adjust it a long time ago, doesnt mean it couldnt have come loose though. Mine is a south bend and has slipped FOREVER up until just recently did it finally grab and stop slipping.
 

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I did adjust it a long time ago, doesnt mean it couldnt have come loose though. Mine is a south bend and has slipped FOREVER up until just recently did it finally grab and stop slipping.
Was it a southbend clutch and flywheel?

The reason I ask is that they had a bad habit of making their flywheels too thick, which threw everything out of whack as far as adjustment. Go to AUS300zx.com and search southbend clutch and you will find a long thread about this issue.

Sounds like it's time to drop the transmission and get a good look at what it going on in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Was it a southbend clutch and flywheel?

The reason I ask is that they had a bad habit of making their flywheels too thick, which threw everything out of whack as far as adjustment. Go to AUS300zx.com and search southbend clutch and you will find a long thread about this issue.

Sounds like it's time to drop the transmission and get a good look at what it going on in there.
Just clutch and pressure plate. Rps flywheel with new replacement plates. Moved the car yesterday. Pedal DEFFINETELY feels different now. Possibly still a hydraulic issue?
 

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Just clutch and pressure plate. Rps flywheel with new replacement plates. Moved the car yesterday. Pedal DEFFINETELY feels different now. Possibly still a hydraulic issue?
If the system has been vacuum bled from both points, and your cylinders are both new, I don't see how it could be. I chased that rabbit trail trying to figure mine out, replaced both cylinders, bled like two quarts worth of fluid through the system, and it didn't work until I changed the clutch and flywheel.

As much as it sucks, you are probably gonna have to drop the trans to see what is up.
 
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