ZCar Forum banner

Let's beat this dead horse somemore:-)

720 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  ElaineZ
I guess my previous post was not clear ( maybe due to frustration) but anyway. If you go to this site http://want1z.freeservers.com/custom2.html

1) Wire connection for the Water temp SWITCH (not sensor) I looked at both 75 & 77 wiring diagram and did not find it.
2) Is the hose connection for my air regulator correct?

Thanks again for your patience.
See less See more
Not open for further replies.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Here is a link. Still cant figure out how to just add a picture on my website site, so that I can add pictures in here . I'm using a template to create my web site.


ok thats a solonoid, not a regulator

make sure of the following.....the right side inlet vaccum hose on the picture, that should go to a t junction. that t junction should then go to the throttle body plug on the bottom, and the final hose going all the way over to the charcole canister...

the fitting on the bottom left of that solonid should go to the distributor...thats how it controls vaccum advance...the wires connect to that, and open the solonoid and let vaccum pull the advance plate in the dizzy....

Post Edited (Oct 20, 9:00am)
See less See more
you MUST make sure the water temp. switch is plugged in, or the Z should run like crap i believe...it will think the engines cold all the time, and add more fuel when it doesnt need it...what it looks like is someone spliced the wiring harness for some reason, and spliced the vaccum advance solonid in, and it doesnt look like there are any connectors for the water temp switch, at least none that i can see.... to be honest with you, i would ditch that EFI harness and go to a junk yard and get a new one...it would take you 15 minutes to swap them out
Well for one thing, there isn't supposed to be a hose on the dashpot, the thing on the throttle body. I ussually toss that sensor and "solinoid" thing you are worried about, it has NO effect on the way the car runs. The EFI temp sensor is the one that make a difference. I just T the hose from the canister to the dizzy advance and conect them to the small fitting on the bottom of the throttle body.
Bubbleguinea, I already have new EFI connectors to replace the old ones. And yes, it runs like crap.

The big question is still, where do I connect the wire with a plug in connection. The other is ground.

Where do you connect this one with the plug in connector. I already look on the 75 & 77 wiring and it is not there.


p.s. just learned how to add pics
See less See more
Steves280, do I understand it right that the Water temp. SWITCH and the Air solenoid can go? Just put a bolt and cap as replacement?

Steves280, can you email me or mark up the picture or post a picture of the set up that you are talking about? Sorry but the terms and explanation (without visual aid) just flew right over my head:)

[email protected]
steves, doesnt that solonid control the vaccum advance if ya want it ?!!?!?
ACJCDAVID, check your e-mail. If your shop hooked up '+12volts' to one side of the water temp switch and 'ground' to the other side they have created a 'short' every time the water temp switch closes (which happens when the engines coolant heats up).... Blown fuses and maybe worse. It also looks like from your photos (not completely clear though) that you have dual pickups - water temp switch controls which pick-up controls your timing.
there should be 4 wires on top of the intake, 2 with female bullet connectors and two with female connectors.

a fuel injection style clip connects to your thermotime switch and that is the big sensor in your picture. The wires from the fuel injection style clip turn into female connectors which clip into either the two black or two green male bullet connector wires usually with a red peice of tape on them.

The water temp sensor which for some reason you have a ground wire soldered on should have a fuel injections tyle clip also, and the wires goto 2 of the 4 wires on top of the intake. they will have female style connectors.

water temp=two male bullets to two female bullets

thermotime=two female bullets to to male bullets.

i would just worry about the water temp at the current time, unplugging the thermotime wont affect the way the car runs and will only affect it at start up.

find the 4 wires!!!mine always seemed to be at least a foot away from teh thermostat housing toward the intake/distributor area.
See less See more
Look under the throttle housing. There is a small metal pipe (vacuum fitting) on the underside of it. Run a hose from there to the distributor vacuum can. T into this hose and run a hose from the T to the small fitting on the charcoal canister over on the passenger fender. Looks like someone has hooked this charcoal canister hose up the the throttle dashpot! Like someone else posted I believe that sensor switches between the two pickups in the distributor at a certain temp for emmisions reasons, the later cars don't have this and they run fine with it left unhooked. The water temp sensor for the gauge (single bullet connector sensor, no wires) will be a yellow wire. That and the small EFI temp sensor are the main ones that need to be right! BTW if you swap the thermo time switch and EFI temp sensor plugs, it won't even begin to run right.
See less See more
You never found that on the wiring diagram? You know...Ive had a couple of sort of emergencies in the last couple of days... I am going to try to get you the whole FSM... I goofed, I deleted all my emails, losing real addresses....can you resend...thanks! I'll get this to you....if you think it will help!!! Dont worry...be happy..If you have Mesc helping, you will survive!!! Promise! :eek:)
You know..I could take a picture of mine, ACDC, and post it.... let me know....
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Not open for further replies.