O.K. I've cooled off ,it's a new day ( I'm wearing old clothes) Now... how do I get that hub off. I just want to put original style brake on rear passenger side. A previous owner put some other brake assembly back there and I want to put one from a 78 Z. How much do I have to change ? Am I gonna be taking off part of the differential to get that plate off???? Who knows how to do this. I have a FSM and it shows the assembly ,but not how to take the whole durn thing out.Any help appreciated
I've cooled off...Help
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batting practice w/ rubber mallet
hmm not really sure what youre saying anymore.. thought you were just trying to get the drums off which like to stick if left for extended periods of time. if tahts teh case, just rubber mallet the **** out of it with nice doses of anti-rust removal wd-40 blends.
if youre talking about getting the hub/rear bearing out.. thats not easy heh. exactly what kind of 'other brake assembly' did the old owner put on?
hmm not really sure what youre saying anymore.. thought you were just trying to get the drums off which like to stick if left for extended periods of time. if tahts teh case, just rubber mallet the **** out of it with nice doses of anti-rust removal wd-40 blends.
if youre talking about getting the hub/rear bearing out.. thats not easy heh. exactly what kind of 'other brake assembly' did the old owner put on?
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Re: batting practice w/ rubber mallet
Drums stick in two areas, either to the shoes (because they are adjusted a bit tight) or to the center hub. I had the same trouble a few years ago on my 75 and here is what i did as I remember it:
First look in your FSM on read about the adjusting of the brakes. Now I simply can't remember if I reached thru the back or thru a hole in the drum but you have you have to turn the adfjusting screw down to release the shoe pressure. However, there is also a little lever that catches on the adjusting screw that has to be moved out of the way to allow the screw to be backed off. Anyway, the FSM should detail that. Now once the screw is backed off now try the mallet to wallpop the drum and see if it comes loose. if not take a propane torch and heat the area around each lug stud. In fact if you have a buddy use two torches to get things warm. Now use the mallet and it should come off.
The FSM should detail the removal of the backing plate. look under the section for replacement of the axle carrier bearings and the only addition you will make is to back the 4 bolts off holding the plate once everything else is down. Good luck cause it ain't a fun job by any stretch of the imagination. I have done it 3 or 4 times now and still have nightmares............
Charles
Drums stick in two areas, either to the shoes (because they are adjusted a bit tight) or to the center hub. I had the same trouble a few years ago on my 75 and here is what i did as I remember it:
First look in your FSM on read about the adjusting of the brakes. Now I simply can't remember if I reached thru the back or thru a hole in the drum but you have you have to turn the adfjusting screw down to release the shoe pressure. However, there is also a little lever that catches on the adjusting screw that has to be moved out of the way to allow the screw to be backed off. Anyway, the FSM should detail that. Now once the screw is backed off now try the mallet to wallpop the drum and see if it comes loose. if not take a propane torch and heat the area around each lug stud. In fact if you have a buddy use two torches to get things warm. Now use the mallet and it should come off.
The FSM should detail the removal of the backing plate. look under the section for replacement of the axle carrier bearings and the only addition you will make is to back the 4 bolts off holding the plate once everything else is down. Good luck cause it ain't a fun job by any stretch of the imagination. I have done it 3 or 4 times now and still have nightmares............
Charles
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Re: batting practice w/ rubber mallet
One other thing. If you ever get it off, put some grease on the flange before you put it back on ;-)
SoM
One other thing. If you ever get it off, put some grease on the flange before you put it back on ;-)
SoM
Re: batting practice w/ rubber mallet
Going from memory as it's been a long time since I messed with the brakes.
On the brake housing, on the INSIDE of it (towards differential) there should be an oval hole at about the 6:00 position. It may have a rubber plug in it. That's your adjusting opening. That's where you insert a straight bladed screwdriver or a brake adjusting tool to turn the brake piston head out to spread the shoes. The more you click (in one direction) the more the brakes spread hence shorter travel to contact with the drum. Clicking that in the OPPOSITE direction will screw down the piston head and therefore REDUCE the spread of the pads. You need to do this to make sure that IF your drums have become grooved due to long use with the same pads, that the pads themselves don't become a flange on which the drum will catch and not let you remove it.
Next item, the brake drum fits over the studs to hold your wheel. In the center you will notice the cap for the bearing. On rear wheels this is typically a concave cap (curving IN) with maybe two half moons on either end. This cap is centered in the brake drum and helps align the drum. The outer flange of this cap is what sticks / rusts to the drum and makes it very difficult to remove the drum. Squirt penetrating oil, WD-40, in this area. If you choose to heat, heat AROUND this and not on it. The reason for that is you want the DRUM to expand, and NOT the cap.
You might also check the openings which the STUDS go through the drum through. Squirt the holes there with penetrating oil or WD40.
Get a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. The dead blow hammer is one which has a hollow head usually filled with some sort of lead buckshot or a solid weight that can travel inside the head. When you swing it, the weight travels to the back part of the hammer, and when it strikes, the weight continues moving through inertia and gives a secondary impact milliseconds after the first. This kind of hammer packs a heavy wallop.
Strike around the studs, and the center cap area. Don't strike on the fins, or the outside part of the drum. Because it's aluminum it can shatter, as you've already experienced.
You should be able to see some movement within a few blows. If you still do not, then you may need to get an oversize gear puller, or check with your local tool rental place and see if they rent a hub puller. The puller will grip the outside of the drum back by the fins and push against the center cap and should then remove it.
Last item you will need is a heaping shovelful of PATIENCE.
Other people have pointed out the obvious, make sure the parking brake is off. To check this, try to spin the drum. If it does not spin, you still have some pressure being applied to the drum by the pads, release the pads even more. Once the drum is spinning you can then attack getting it removed.
Good Luck
Going from memory as it's been a long time since I messed with the brakes.
On the brake housing, on the INSIDE of it (towards differential) there should be an oval hole at about the 6:00 position. It may have a rubber plug in it. That's your adjusting opening. That's where you insert a straight bladed screwdriver or a brake adjusting tool to turn the brake piston head out to spread the shoes. The more you click (in one direction) the more the brakes spread hence shorter travel to contact with the drum. Clicking that in the OPPOSITE direction will screw down the piston head and therefore REDUCE the spread of the pads. You need to do this to make sure that IF your drums have become grooved due to long use with the same pads, that the pads themselves don't become a flange on which the drum will catch and not let you remove it.
Next item, the brake drum fits over the studs to hold your wheel. In the center you will notice the cap for the bearing. On rear wheels this is typically a concave cap (curving IN) with maybe two half moons on either end. This cap is centered in the brake drum and helps align the drum. The outer flange of this cap is what sticks / rusts to the drum and makes it very difficult to remove the drum. Squirt penetrating oil, WD-40, in this area. If you choose to heat, heat AROUND this and not on it. The reason for that is you want the DRUM to expand, and NOT the cap.
You might also check the openings which the STUDS go through the drum through. Squirt the holes there with penetrating oil or WD40.
Get a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. The dead blow hammer is one which has a hollow head usually filled with some sort of lead buckshot or a solid weight that can travel inside the head. When you swing it, the weight travels to the back part of the hammer, and when it strikes, the weight continues moving through inertia and gives a secondary impact milliseconds after the first. This kind of hammer packs a heavy wallop.
Strike around the studs, and the center cap area. Don't strike on the fins, or the outside part of the drum. Because it's aluminum it can shatter, as you've already experienced.
You should be able to see some movement within a few blows. If you still do not, then you may need to get an oversize gear puller, or check with your local tool rental place and see if they rent a hub puller. The puller will grip the outside of the drum back by the fins and push against the center cap and should then remove it.
Last item you will need is a heaping shovelful of PATIENCE.
Other people have pointed out the obvious, make sure the parking brake is off. To check this, try to spin the drum. If it does not spin, you still have some pressure being applied to the drum by the pads, release the pads even more. Once the drum is spinning you can then attack getting it removed.
Good Luck
Beware...
Rear end changes may involve non-compatible half-shafts and driveshafts. With a typical Z, it's difficult to know whether what you got is stock. Best way is to find a known stock vehicle of same year and compare. Hopefully your PO swap involved only the brakes. Then it should not be hard to convert back.
Also be aware that smacking on the hub is likely to damage the tapered roller bearings in the hub. If you got stuck brake drums on hub, I recommend application of Marvel Mystery Oil at center ring and at stud penetrations. Let it sit for a couple of days, and/or apply heat with a torch. Use light coat of antisieze upon reassembly.
Good luck!
Al
Rear end changes may involve non-compatible half-shafts and driveshafts. With a typical Z, it's difficult to know whether what you got is stock. Best way is to find a known stock vehicle of same year and compare. Hopefully your PO swap involved only the brakes. Then it should not be hard to convert back.
Also be aware that smacking on the hub is likely to damage the tapered roller bearings in the hub. If you got stuck brake drums on hub, I recommend application of Marvel Mystery Oil at center ring and at stud penetrations. Let it sit for a couple of days, and/or apply heat with a torch. Use light coat of antisieze upon reassembly.
Good luck!
Al
On my 78 the adjuster was rusted.
With hand break down it was still to tight, I pulled the pin holding the HB arm to the backing plate, giving total relase of the HB.
With drum stuck to hub, the drum will have 0 play, if stuck to shoes only the drum will a little give, thus narrowing down what the problum is.
With hand break down it was still to tight, I pulled the pin holding the HB arm to the backing plate, giving total relase of the HB.
With drum stuck to hub, the drum will have 0 play, if stuck to shoes only the drum will a little give, thus narrowing down what the problum is.
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