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It's official, Engine pull inc.

4281 Views 39 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  KyleKidd
There's no way to get the headers off the car with the engine in the car. I tried and I couldn't get off a single bolt. My uncle brought over his engine lift and I will be starting this asap.

Anyways, here's the list:

-New harness,
-Some new rubber hoses,
-Changing the one PCV hose I couldn't get to before,
-Finding and permanently fixing oil leak which I've had forever,
-Going to try and flush the heater core out,
-possible bay paint, but definitely a cleaning,
-new headers
-going to delete the AIV and EGR for sure.

Anything you guys think I should add? Remember I have a pretty small budget.

I've been reading a few engine pull write ups, but if anyone has links to more I'd like to read them.
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All I really need (in the way of tools) is an engine stand. Is 1250lb good enough?
Looking at this stand:

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Now I have the newer style injectors.

So I need a 93+ harness correct?

I'm a 1990 N/a Auto N/a. This is the harness I'm looking at:


at $400 though, its a pretty penny.
1250 is more than adequate. engine is about 500#. but safety factor is always a good thing and the four-point wheels are a plus, although I had no trouble with a 3-point. depending on the distance from the vertical post of the four tubes for bolting the back of the block, you may or may not have a little trouble spinning 360 degrees. After most of the upper and side stuff was removed, I just removed one bolt that hit, spun it, and put the bolt back in.
Motor mounts? Possibly its cheap and prevents future hassle lol
Ive been getting motor mounts from Rock Auto. They Are around $30 each and i havent had a problem whatsoever. As for your harness, a 93 harness would be fine. And you can get the exhaust manifolds off while in the car, youve just gotta be good :p
kandy said:
And you can get the exhaust manifolds off while in the car, youve just gotta be good :p
Only if your willing to sacrifice a fimger to the Z gods. Kyle what about buying a full gasket kit and replace everything while its out?
Kyle. you should do the following:

rear main seal/RMS housing gasket, if your oil PAN is leaking, remove and re-seal that too, if you feel like dropping the plenum, valve covers, the rear PCV hoses, delete the EGR, buy the engine harness to match your engine not your car so the 93 harness is good, new motor mounts, check your steering rack etc, you do not have to disconnect the PS hose or the a/c if you dont want to, they can be slung out of the way and the engine can be pulled without them attached. As far as i can think, thats all I would do unless you have any other underlying problems. OH! They're a royal bitch to replace engine in: heater core hoses. DO THESE NOW OR YOU'LL HATE YOURSELF WHEN THEY LEAK.
You guys are so awesome. I have a new unopened valve cover kit sitting on the shelf which im considering doing while the engine is out. And im definatly replacing the heater core hoses, thanks for the heads up. Im also going to try and flush the heater core while the engine is out since my heat still doesn't work. I can do that by just sending water from a garden hose into one pipe of the core through the firewall right?
yep, just dont open it all the way. crack it and let a steady drip come through... You can actually flush the whole coolant system this way if you either bridge the heater core and feed through the inlets on the front, or opposite.
Put some grease on the end of the bracket that the block bolts onto before you place it into the engine stand. That will make it pretty easy to spin around. Also, I don't know the miles on the engine or if you had good oil pressure, but if you are pulling the pan, think about an oil pump. I found it helpful to tag all of the wire connections on the old harness , showing just a random number, then marking the corresponding sensor,switch,injector etc.. It made it really easy to put it all back into place. Good luck
I remember the good ol days when i used to label harness's! Its a good way to keep everything where its supposed to be hooked up. I dont even think about it anymore though.
I bought a rainbow pack of zip ties =)

I'm probably going to have a lot of questions as I go along with this pull, so I really hope that I wont get on everyone's nerves.

Would anyone be willing to give me their # so I can text or call if I get into a serious problem?

I'll be starting next weekend when I get home from the dorms.
Go Kyle Go .........

Just do it.....
until your get the engine on the stand... everything else is just talk...

I agree with the heater hoses ( I did mine on the car... not so much fun ).

02 sensors NOW!
Throttle body coolant bypass.
All gaskets & seals @ minimum ( with the timing belt cha cha )
New Alt??

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Vigman, this is a reality. The motor mounts, and headers are now on the way to my house, and the cat-back is already in my garage, along with the cherry picker.

I'm currently researching prices for the wiring harness, and an EGR delete kit as well.

AND! My O2 sensors are only a few months old
I already did the throttle body coolant bypass =)
Alt is new, and belt was done not even 2k ago.

I have an intake gasket and valve cover gasket kit sitting on the shelf waiting for a rainy day. (which might be a snowy day this weekend, we'll see how far I get)

Anything else?! Keep it coming!
you should be able to find a wiring harness for around 360, EGR delete kits... I bought mine a few years ago for 40 bucks. If not, just make one. All you need to do is make plates to cover the holes in the bottom of the plenum, since i'm 99% sure all after market headers dont even have the EGR bung in them.
The EGR delete plate are $19 at Conceptzperformance.com

Harness is like 370ish.

I was planning on just unbolting the EGR assembly and AIV altogether. W

Will there be a hole in the back of the engine that needs to be covered if I do this? (EGR)
I know for the AIV, vac hoses just need to be capped.
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no, it just bolts to the back of the heads? i think. and tubes run from the driver side manifold to both sides of plenum + some vac lines.
That's what I though. I will just cap the vacuum lines and buy the metal plates to block the tubes going to the underside of the plenum.

I'm having new mid-pipes made, and they won't have EGR hook-ups anyway.
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