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Discussion Starter #21
Mostly sanded, but still with some discolored spots. It should encapsulate the remaining oxidation.
I'm mostly there, at least for the floor. I'm just trying to remove left over bumps of insulation residue. Will your insulation go all the way up the sides to the door sill like the carpet does? And is there any harm in covering the seat rail crossmembers on the floor with the insulation?
 

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I used acetone on a cleaning rag to get rid of the tar bumps. I didn’t go up the door sill sides with the sound deadening mat. I might yet do that after I try to test fit the new vinyl for the sills along with the new sill plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I used acetone on a cleaning rag to get rid of the tar bumps. I didn’t go up the door sill sides with the sound deadening mat. I might yet do that after I try to test fit the new vinyl for the sills along with the new sill plates.
Let me tell ya that acetone works crazy good. The icing on the cake. Now my little wounds from bumping while scraping, contorting, chiseling can start to heal while I'm finishing up the clean-off, prior to coating the floors. Thanks
 

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Much appreciated. Say, were your floors completely sanded to bare metal before painting, no traces of oxidation? Or is it ok to have some discoloration/surface oxidation even after some sanding? Won't the rusty metal primer handle a bit of light rusty residue? I'm not able to completely eliminate some of the staining/discoloration in a few areas.
I have been using Rust Cutter that you can get from Tractor Supply. I have used it on farm implements and it holds up to the Michigan winters. I am using it on my body were there was any surface rust. I am just about to sand my floors were there is minor surface rust., so I do not have to remove the sound installation. The Rust Cutter does take time in order to make it work. I will be using conventional oil base primer that spraying on the etching primer prior to factory paint color which I am still looking for!
 
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