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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to try and tackle changing my front brake rotors, pads and hardware myelf and have three novice questions:

1) Do I have to disconnect my brake hoses from the caliper to install new front rotors or can I move the calipers aside so I don't have to mess with any bleeding or is that a bad idea?

2) Do I only have to bleed the fronts since they have a separate reservoir in the master cylinder (starting with the right front since it's further away then the left front) or do I have to bleed all four wheels?

3) How do you plug up a disconnected hose to stop fluid from leaking everywhere or do you want it all to drain out? I'd think clamping on a brake hose with a vice grip probably isn't a good idea. These are the little things a FSM never tells us dummies.

Thanks.
 

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1) NO, Still bleed
2) Best to bleed all starting with the Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right then the Front Left... to remove and air from the system.
3) See # 1...

Z U V8ter
 

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1. NO, you do not have to undo the brake line to change rotors, pads ect. Unbolt the caliper (two 17mm bolts... or 15mm, can't remember). Lift from rotor and use a coat hanger to hang the caliper from the strut spring. Do not hang from the brake hose, slip the hanger through the mounting hole.

2. Once everything is back together, test and see how the pedal feels. It may be ok, if not bleed the system. Start at the left rear (it is the greater distance from the master cylinder...), then the right rear, right front and left front.

3. If you are not breaking apart the lines, don't worry about it. If you do have to break apart the lines to change the caliper, rear wheel cylinder, ect just turn the rubber hose so it is pointing upwards.

4. If you have to turn the rotors, remove the dust cover, remove cotter pin, loosen nut and pull off rotor. (of course the caliper will be removed and hung out of the way). Be sure to check the wheel bearings and relube them after the rotor has been turned or replaced.
 

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Re: Installing 78 Brake Rotors

All good advice above, plus:
Do you need new hoses? MSA had SS hoses on sale.

Flushing the fluid is a good idea. Any DOT 4 type is the one that I prefer.

The wheel bearings and the areas inside the hub MUST be very clean. When you are sure that all old grease and solvent and dirt is gone, CLEAN THEM AGAIN.

The bearings are adj. to zero tolerance which requires some feel. Keep turning the assembled hub on the spindle while you tighten the nut to seat the bearings in the races. then back off the retainer one notch and use a new cotter pin twisted 90 degr. (the RR twist) to secure the retainer.
 

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I recommend this fluid...

ATE super blue (or gold) racing brake fluid. I bought mine from OG Racing (www.ogracing.com) It comes in a 1 liter can, which is more than enough for a complete flush. ATE is a German brake fluid which is the stock fluid for BMW's. The blue is not DOT approved (because of the color), but the gold is DOT approved. They are the same, except for the color. It has a dry boiling point of 536 and a wet boiling point of 392. It also is a low moisture asorbing fluid. Oh, a 1 liter can cost $9.95.
 
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