This gasket is probably the most tricky to get a correct seal and most are tempted to overtighten. Make sure the bolt holes in the oil pan are flat and not extending past the flat surface of the pan. Kind of tough to describe in words, but the bolt holes will deform from overtightening. Anyway, apply some silicone sealer on the block and oil pan where the gasket will reside. Install all of the bolts and tighten by hand. When you tighten the bolts tighten until you see the gasket start to deform/flatten once it starts to deform a little, that is all the tightening you need to do. If you overtighten, you will tear the gasket and create voids between the pan and gasket causing leaks. Good luck!
> The valve cover gasket is dry. It should be
> re-useable if it is still in good condition.
> You can also use Permatex Copper
> RTV it is a gasket maker for high-temp
> The same goes for the intake/exhaust is also
thanks for the help .I picked up a 81 zx motor that was in a junk yard the motor was pulled from a wrecked car and the compression is good in all 6 holes. I want to pull the oil pan and clean it out . Or do you think I should just let it alone and drain the old oil
It is always easiest to replace the gaskets while the engine is out of the car. I always do a complete rebuild just having the cylinders de-glazed or a light hone. You should atleast replace the front/rear main seal and the pan/front cover gasket at a minimum. Just saves you the trouble of going back if the seals turn out to be bad.
> thanks for the help .I picked up a 81 zx
> motor that was in a junk yard the motor was
> pulled from a wrecked car and the
> compression is good in all 6 holes. I want
> to pull the oil pan and clean it out . Or do
> you think I should just let it alone and
> drain the old oil
> Install valve cover gasket dry, both mating surfaces here are machined flat.
Install manifold gasket dry, should have no problems here unless you have a header. Sealing up a header is a topic all on its own.
The oil pan is the place where most beginners have problems, due to the following problems. 1: The pan itself is warped, usually areas under bolts. 2: The gasket is usually a cork material that will not tolerate overtorquing. 3: The pan joint covers joints between timing case, and rear main bearing cap.
To overcome these problems; 1: Tap the surface of the pan flat, use a straight edge to find high and low spots. 2: With the pan clean, bond the gasket to the pan with contact cement. This will help prevent extrusion of the gasket. 3: Apply a small dab of oil compatible silicone to the joints on the block (timing case, rear brg cap) Leave the rest of the block clean and dry. If your silicone smells like vinegar, its not oil compatible, and on a newer car it may kill your o2 sensor. 4: Evenly tighten pan until you see the gasket just start to compress out of the joint
. Do not overtighten!