indiglo needles? 75 non egr intake
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There also is...
A late model ZX manifold without EGR. If you are going standalone FI it's no great shakes. If you are using a stock wiring harness, the late makes the engine bay look much more "stock".
I just installed the 75 Non-EGR intake onto my 81 L28 for the Fairlady. Took a while to port out the Throttle body opening for the big-throat, but it should prove interesting. I took out ALL the little lumps and bumps in the airpath.
Anybody but me ever notice the big cast-in bumps at the plenum-end of the intake runners on that manifold? Getting those out is a pain. Took out the EFI Injector-mounting bump near the manifold flange, too. I just installed all the bolts that now have a "vent path" to the outside with sealant...
A late model ZX manifold without EGR. If you are going standalone FI it's no great shakes. If you are using a stock wiring harness, the late makes the engine bay look much more "stock".
I just installed the 75 Non-EGR intake onto my 81 L28 for the Fairlady. Took a while to port out the Throttle body opening for the big-throat, but it should prove interesting. I took out ALL the little lumps and bumps in the airpath.
Anybody but me ever notice the big cast-in bumps at the plenum-end of the intake runners on that manifold? Getting those out is a pain. Took out the EFI Injector-mounting bump near the manifold flange, too. I just installed all the bolts that now have a "vent path" to the outside with sealant...
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41,285 Posts
You won't believe me!
I use a washing machine motor with an adapter and flex-shaft with collett end!
I got the washing machine motor for free, and it got PLENTY of torque. You should see this thing with a 36 grit sanding drum. You can really bear down and not even phase the thing.
I got the adapter from a machinist buddy who just took a solid bar of 3/4" round stock, and on the same center bored a 5/8" hole on one end and a 1/4" hole on the other with two setscrews each to fit the shafts!
The flexshaft I got has a collett head, just like the end of a die grinder, and came with both a 1/4 and 1/8" collet insert.
I like it a lot. The lower speed lets me take my time and the torque lets me really have at it without getting into chatteer and jumpout problems. I do my final polishing with an electric die grinder, but 98% of the heavy work is done with that simple setup.
I have a selection of mandrels from 2 to 8" long. What I'd kill for is a flexible mandrel 8" long that I could attach to a flapper wheel to run up and down the runners like a bore polisher.
Either way, the simple motor works. I've had it now since 1987! I can't tell you how many heads or intakes or valvecovers I've attacked with this thing. I think someplace even sells the adapters for motors now, so all you have to do is find them. Eastwood may have them even. I can't even remember who I bought the flexible shaft extension from, but I do know it originally came with an adapter to hook up to my makita grinder, so the shaft is rated for 14,000rpm, and I used it like that for about a year until I got a free washing machine motor dropped in my lap . The washing machine motor was quiet enough that I could (get ready for a "white trash moment!") port the heads while watching TV in my living room. I like quiet. rmmmmmrmmmmmrmmmmbrzzzzbrzzzzzbrzzzzz! Not really obtrusive in the least. Just don't do it if you have rugs, we had a tile floor where I was living at the time!
Great thing is, it runs on 110V, is easily controllable, and if you get a foot switch, is easy to pop on and off when you need to (I was unplugging mine for years until I broke down and bought a foot switch!). With a washing machine motor, it has a lot of torque, and I've often wondered if I could add a flywheel to it to keep a bog from ocurring (I really bear down when I get impatient). From what you've read so far, I guess you see why I limit my use of the high-speed tools! ;-)
I use a washing machine motor with an adapter and flex-shaft with collett end!
I got the washing machine motor for free, and it got PLENTY of torque. You should see this thing with a 36 grit sanding drum. You can really bear down and not even phase the thing.
I got the adapter from a machinist buddy who just took a solid bar of 3/4" round stock, and on the same center bored a 5/8" hole on one end and a 1/4" hole on the other with two setscrews each to fit the shafts!
The flexshaft I got has a collett head, just like the end of a die grinder, and came with both a 1/4 and 1/8" collet insert.
I like it a lot. The lower speed lets me take my time and the torque lets me really have at it without getting into chatteer and jumpout problems. I do my final polishing with an electric die grinder, but 98% of the heavy work is done with that simple setup.
I have a selection of mandrels from 2 to 8" long. What I'd kill for is a flexible mandrel 8" long that I could attach to a flapper wheel to run up and down the runners like a bore polisher.
Either way, the simple motor works. I've had it now since 1987! I can't tell you how many heads or intakes or valvecovers I've attacked with this thing. I think someplace even sells the adapters for motors now, so all you have to do is find them. Eastwood may have them even. I can't even remember who I bought the flexible shaft extension from, but I do know it originally came with an adapter to hook up to my makita grinder, so the shaft is rated for 14,000rpm, and I used it like that for about a year until I got a free washing machine motor dropped in my lap . The washing machine motor was quiet enough that I could (get ready for a "white trash moment!") port the heads while watching TV in my living room. I like quiet. rmmmmmrmmmmmrmmmmbrzzzzbrzzzzzbrzzzzz! Not really obtrusive in the least. Just don't do it if you have rugs, we had a tile floor where I was living at the time!
Great thing is, it runs on 110V, is easily controllable, and if you get a foot switch, is easy to pop on and off when you need to (I was unplugging mine for years until I broke down and bought a foot switch!). With a washing machine motor, it has a lot of torque, and I've often wondered if I could add a flywheel to it to keep a bog from ocurring (I really bear down when I get impatient). From what you've read so far, I guess you see why I limit my use of the high-speed tools! ;-)
Re: There also is...
I have not seen the FI onres but the SU intakes are mighty rough inside!!! There is a weld that runs down the middle of all the tubes that is soooo sloppy and you can also grind down a lot off the bridge where the 2 ports are together.....
For my port and polish I got a 3" buffer with a flex shaft that cranks out 10K RPM at harbor Freight for like $20 or $30 and it is working just fine with dremel cutters , grinding stones and sanding drums...Most people say that they (dremel size) tools won't workj but they seem fine to me and if you are not a seasoned pro like Tony it is comforting to know that you can;t slip and have a big ole snafu or hole in your head/intake.....It may take longer but the best part is I can get most of the shaft into all areas of the intake.....so if your not in a hurry and on a budget check out harbor freight ( they also have heavier duty ones and the ones that is just a motor and a long flex shaft with higher RPM's for like $60....(these are what the pro's who don't use air tools..( I personally dont like air tools because of the bulkiness of the tool...)
Z ya later
Mike K
I have not seen the FI onres but the SU intakes are mighty rough inside!!! There is a weld that runs down the middle of all the tubes that is soooo sloppy and you can also grind down a lot off the bridge where the 2 ports are together.....
For my port and polish I got a 3" buffer with a flex shaft that cranks out 10K RPM at harbor Freight for like $20 or $30 and it is working just fine with dremel cutters , grinding stones and sanding drums...Most people say that they (dremel size) tools won't workj but they seem fine to me and if you are not a seasoned pro like Tony it is comforting to know that you can;t slip and have a big ole snafu or hole in your head/intake.....It may take longer but the best part is I can get most of the shaft into all areas of the intake.....so if your not in a hurry and on a budget check out harbor freight ( they also have heavier duty ones and the ones that is just a motor and a long flex shaft with higher RPM's for like $60....(these are what the pro's who don't use air tools..( I personally dont like air tools because of the bulkiness of the tool...)
Z ya later
Mike K
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41,285 Posts
Not enough amps...
Originally I had a motor from an old White sewing machine, but it didn't have the torque I needed. The washing machine motor is squirrel-cage and not too easily controlled without a VSD. They are cheap, but with the thing only turning 1780rpm, I dont need any turndown. Some motors are 3550 rpm, so that's another option, and if my buddy comes through, I will get some DC drives that operate off of 220 single phase from conveying systems, and they have a 2HP motor! Talk about torque. I could run a speed increaser on the end of the motor and use the speed control (rheostat controlled) to get whatever speed I wanted 0-12,000 rpm if I use a 4X gearbox, which would still give me 1/4 HP at the shaft available...
He converted his Bridgeport Mill to these motors so he could run them in his barn without needing a Phase Converter. Really cool having rheostats to control the mill's operating parameters instead of swapping belts and gear postitions!
Originally I had a motor from an old White sewing machine, but it didn't have the torque I needed. The washing machine motor is squirrel-cage and not too easily controlled without a VSD. They are cheap, but with the thing only turning 1780rpm, I dont need any turndown. Some motors are 3550 rpm, so that's another option, and if my buddy comes through, I will get some DC drives that operate off of 220 single phase from conveying systems, and they have a 2HP motor! Talk about torque. I could run a speed increaser on the end of the motor and use the speed control (rheostat controlled) to get whatever speed I wanted 0-12,000 rpm if I use a 4X gearbox, which would still give me 1/4 HP at the shaft available...
He converted his Bridgeport Mill to these motors so he could run them in his barn without needing a Phase Converter. Really cool having rheostats to control the mill's operating parameters instead of swapping belts and gear postitions!
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41,285 Posts
I kill with Dremels!
I most definately am NOT a seasoned pro! I have a Dremel, and I can't do anything with it and have a smooth result. I guess it's from using this big motor for so long. The high-speed tools are for my final polishing only, If I try stock removal, I invariably end up with many many many small ridges, and end up going over them with the big, sloooow tool to take them out.
I use the bigun cause it removes stuff sloooowly over a large area at a time---which is easier for me to control than trying to blend all those small, slowly removed spots with he dremel.
I know the grinder you are talking about---I was considering one of those because it has more torque than the Dremel at the slower speeds, so it can turn a larger tool---it looks like a good go0between from my big hoss hogger motor and the little vari-speed hand held Dremel tool.
I most definately am NOT a seasoned pro! I have a Dremel, and I can't do anything with it and have a smooth result. I guess it's from using this big motor for so long. The high-speed tools are for my final polishing only, If I try stock removal, I invariably end up with many many many small ridges, and end up going over them with the big, sloooow tool to take them out.
I use the bigun cause it removes stuff sloooowly over a large area at a time---which is easier for me to control than trying to blend all those small, slowly removed spots with he dremel.
I know the grinder you are talking about---I was considering one of those because it has more torque than the Dremel at the slower speeds, so it can turn a larger tool---it looks like a good go0between from my big hoss hogger motor and the little vari-speed hand held Dremel tool.
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