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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I changed my 2010 370Z battery and now my ignition is stuck in lock. No clicks. No ignition controller motor whine. Nothing. Lights work. Key dongle put into the dead battery slot, as I call it.

A Nissan dealer and Nissan USA Customer Support both told me the ignition control unit not covered even though they issued a Service Campaign...

I've only found one solution to getting it out of this state short of buying and replacing the part ($450+). Has anyone seen this, tried it, and most importantly, does anyone know if this is some fool on Youtube pulling people's legs causing them to cause serious damage to their car. The comments seem legit, but who knows in this day in age.

<YOUTUBE URL>watch?v=pLPTNm0xxy4

I can't insert links yet, apparently. Yes, I'm playing the system. sorry. Here's the youtube video description, which basically describes the process.

First let’s verify my original issue: the ignition was stuck in LOCK mode. Would not cycle to ACCessory or ON. Cycling the locks with the fob didn’t change anything. Changing to the spare fob didn’t change anything.

Suspected the typical steering lock issue, but in order to perform the “fuse trick”, I had to at least get the ignition to ACC mode.

I’ll keep this short and sweet. Under the driver knee bolster, the steering lock is attached to the steering column and has a 7 pin connector. I watched another video that covered checking for power on the pink wire. If you have 12v on the pink wire, steering lock is junk. 12v is fed to the steering lock on the blue wire, that SHOULD have 12v.

I used a needle/safety pin to back probe the connector at the pink wire to ground it out. You’ll need to use a screw driver or test leads, anything metal really, to create the path to ground from the needle/pin to the steel framework of the dash. While actively grounding this wire, cycles the push button to ACC and ON to verify proper operation. Cycle ignition off to LOCK, and then back to ACC.

You NEED to have the ignition in ACC while doing the fuse trick now. Remove the plastic battery cover, and then the small plastic push pins for the cover surround, and then two more for the cowl section. Pull the cowl piece towards the front of the vehicle and set it aside. There are two locking tabs holding the large fuse panel to a bracket. The entire fuse panel has enough slack to be removed from the bracket and pulled up into full view. Two more lock tabs hold the fuse cover on and it slides off rather easily. Remove the 4th fuse up from the bottom (NOT THE #4 fuse like I mentioned in the video) and keep it as a spare.

Go cycle the ignition and make sure the car starts. No more chances of being stranded due to the steering lock bullshit. Good luck!
Thanks!
 

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I assume that you have researched this issue on the 370Z site. Some have had luck freeing up the ignition lock with a sharp tap from a small hammer or whatever, then immediately do the fuse trick. As a former owner of a 2009, I can tell you that pulling the fuse while the lock is still operational and able to go in to the ACC mode does solve the problem long term. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Yes, I did a bunch of research and have come across the hammer trick. That did not work, but I don't know that I gave it a "sharp" tap. I was a little hesitant on that one. I am mostly curious about grounding the pink wire. I just don't want to cause that to short something more important.
 
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