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I read a couple of post about ignition and they answered some of my questions and in fact I have the power transistor wires the wrong way in my coil. In fact I just came back after runnig out and changing the wires and drove the car, but... no difference.

I am including copy of a previous post I made about the problems with my Z. As this moment I am removing from the possible causes the Air Flow Meter and the car's computer. I got a friends units (thanks Danilo) and swap them in place and the car had the exact same symptoms)
As this moment I am blaming 2 possibilities: 1) loose ground which I have missed or forgotten 2) ignition problems.
I think that it is important to notice that I have a new MSD blaster 2 coil and that the car burnt a MSD 6A I installed and damaged the previous coil ..... (do we se a pattern here?, I am positive it has something to do with it) Now I bought a NEW MSD 6AL with revolution limiter but I think I shouldnt install the new MSD because I am fearing to loose it.

*********this question was already answered before this post************
A couple of questions for those of you with stock ignition,. In the coil, the black wire goes alone to the (-) terminal?? also noticed that the little transformer (cylindrical) just beside to the coil is NOT connected on the black wire side, how should it be connected?
How can I inspect the power transistor?

I am desperate!!
please help!!!!!!!


Is there anyone with the factory service manual who can help me pinpoint that???

************************previous post******************************8

I posted a msg below about having problems when tryibg to go over 4 psi of boost, I checked most sensors and ground and they are fine except the AFM.am using as a reference (I dont have the Shop manual yet) the Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management book. It doesnt state specific resitances. Let me quote the book on the troubleshooting the AFMTest the air-flow sensor insulation. With the ignition off, disconnect the air-flow sensor wiring connector. Connect one lead of an ohm meter to ground on the chassis and touch each air-flow sensor terminal with the other lead as shown. A reading other than infinite ohms (no continuity) indicates a faulty air-flow sensordid the test and it gives me continuity on the common terminal that goes to the air temp sensor and the resistance track.! (well, I am hoping the book is wrong), I performed the following testCheck the sensor resistance track. Identify the correct terminals for resistance track input and output and connect an ohmmeter across them. The resistance should change as the air vane opens. The actual values are less important that the fact that the values change smoothly, without any sudden drop outs.removed the AFM square cap and put the ohmmeter in the proper wires and moved the vane smoothly and the last thing i get is smooth variation of the resistance it changes erratically from 180 ohms to infinity to 300 and keep doing it all the way.shocks me is the fact that when I was working with the new compressor I only disconnected the unit and to say more I even used the car and worked fine except when hard shifting when the ignition just disapeared.with that ignition problem *which I didnt knew at that moment I broke the differential and swapped in an LSD.couple of weeks (about 5) passed before I replaced the diff.testing the diff the the coil died and at the same time I noticed I was having problems with a loose i/c connection, so I replaced the coil and used the HKS piping I had.day I was testing the diff, the car had the same symptoms as this moment.
question....some already know that coil wires can be inverted but maybe the performance is not the same. Is the black white-stripped wire the one that goes to the coil (-)?
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