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> I read a couple of post about ignition and
> they answered some of my questions and in
> fact I have the power transistor wires the
> wrong way in my coil. In fact I just came
> back after runnig out and changing the wires
> and drove the car, but... no difference.

> I am including copy of a previous post I
> made about the problems with my Z. As this
> moment I am removing from the possible
> causes the Air Flow Meter and the car's
> computer. I got a friends units (thanks
> Danilo) and swap them in place and the car
> had the exact same symptoms)
> As this moment I am blaming 2 possibilities:
> 1) loose ground which I have missed or
> forgotten 2) ignition problems.
> I think that it is important to notice that
> I have a new MSD blaster 2 coil and that the
> car burnt a MSD 6A I installed and damaged
> the previous coil ..... (do we se a pattern
> here?, I am positive it has something to do
> with it) Now I bought a NEW MSD 6AL with
> revolution limiter but I think I shouldnt
> install the new MSD because I am fearing to
> loose it.

> *********this question was already answered
> before this post************
> A couple of questions for those of you with
> stock ignition,. In the coil, the black wire
> goes alone to the (-) terminal?? also
> noticed that the little transformer
> (cylindrical) just beside to the coil is NOT
> connected on the black wire side, how should
> it be connected?
> How can I inspect the power transistor?

> I am desperate!!
> please help!!!!!!!

> CarlosZXT

> Is there anyone with the factory service
> manual who can help me pinpoint that???

> ************************previous
> post******************************8

> I posted a msg below about having problems
> when tryibg to go over 4 psi of boost, I
> checked most sensors and ground and they are
> fine except the AFM.am using as a reference
> (I dont have the Shop manual yet) the Bosch
> Fuel Injection and Engine Management book.
> It doesnt state specific resitances. Let me
> quote the book on the troubleshooting the
> AFMTest the air-flow sensor
> insulation. With the ignition off,
> disconnect the air-flow sensor wiring
> connector. Connect one lead of an ohm meter
> to ground on the chassis and touch each
> air-flow sensor terminal with the other lead
> as shown. A reading other than infinite ohms
> (no continuity) indicates a faulty air-flow
> sensordid the test and it gives me
> continuity on the common terminal that goes
> to the air temp sensor and the resistance
> track.! (well, I am hoping the book is
> wrong), I performed the following
> testCheck the sensor resistance track.
> Identify the correct terminals for
> resistance track input and output and
> connect an ohmmeter across them. The
> resistance should change as the air vane
> opens. The actual values are less important
> that the fact that the values change
> smoothly, without any sudden drop
> outs.removed the AFM square cap and
> put the ohmmeter in the proper wires and
> moved the vane smoothly and the last thing i
> get is smooth variation of the resistance it
> changes erratically from 180 ohms to
> infinity to 300 and keep doing it all the
> way.shocks me is the fact that when I was
> working with the new compressor I only
> disconnected the unit and to say more I even
> used the car and worked fine except when
> hard shifting when the ignition just
> disapeared.with that ignition problem *which
> I didnt knew at that moment I broke the
> differential and swapped in an LSD.couple of
> weeks (about 5) passed before I replaced the
> diff.testing the diff the the coil died and
> at the same time I noticed I was having
> problems with a loose i/c connection, so I
> replaced the coil and used the HKS piping I
> had.day I was testing the diff, the car had
> the same symptoms as this moment.
> question....some already know that coil
> wires can be inverted but maybe the
> performance is not the same. Is the black
> white-stripped wire the one that goes to the
> coil (-)?
Carlos I have the entire turbo diagram and book for an 81 ZXT motor which is laying in pieces, I have done all the dry run tests before transplanting motors in my 78 . Please describe you problem in great detail . I will do and look in my book . The AFM on my 81 and 78 do jump like you said this is normal .
I recomend this to all people first check all vaccum hoses, **** change them it is very cheap and old hoses will eventually split again . Check the Air regulator, if stuck open you get a lean mixture all the time . Pich Air Reg hose idle drop at idle, pich at after warm idle no change.If this doesn't happen replace .Get back to you later.
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