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Discussion Starter #1
I posted a question some time ago, concerning the problems I'm having with 260z dying under load. The only feedback I received suggested the problem was with the ignition module. I was told that an upgrade to an ignition module from a 280ZX was the way to go. What about a module from a 77 280z? I recently found one, but I don't know if it's any better than what is on my 260. Thanks, in advance, for any help you guys can offer!!
 

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I think the writer of the ignition module for the ZX meant for you to take the entire ZX distributor. If less than 20bucks at the junkyard it is a good deal. As to your current problem with your 260 distributor you need to explain more detail as to what is now happening wrong.
 

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The engine starts and idles fine. I can move the throttle and get no hesitation whatsoever. When I try to drive it, the car dies before I can even get to 2nd gear. When it dies, it does not hesitate or sputter, it just shuts down. Also, when I turn the ignition off after running the car for a while, it has an "overrrun" problem - like it just doesn't want to shut off. I called several auto shops this morning, and they all feel that the problem is linked to the ignition, as opposed to it being a fuel problem. It has also been suggested that the problem could be the wiring behind the ignition itself - particluarly the overrun problem. I'm hoping an inexpensive changing of the points, plugs and wires might be the solution.
 

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You can actually wire in a modual from a 78. I did this on my previous 76 that I had. You will have less wires to deal with and a slightly better designed modual. All you have to do is bypass a couple of the wires and your good to go!

Dave
 

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The problem you desribe as "overrun" sounds less like an ignition module problem than something else. Have you checked your fuel pressure? Any mods done to your car? How long have you owned it? Alternator circuit been modified? Ignition switch original? Does your distributor have single pickups or dual pick ups. I have working/tested/verified ignition modules available.

Actually the '74 and '78 modules have connectors (although different), ease of replacement. While the 75, 76 and 77 terminate each wire individually with a screw - no connector but a better termination.



Post Edited (Oct 19, 9:19am)
 

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I've had the car for two years, and I haven't done any mechanical mods. The previous owner documented everything that was done to the car, and the only thing that I'm aware of is a new speedometer that was replaced at 68,000 miles [it now has 76,000]. Since the car is not driveable right now, and is sitting in my buddy's garage, I can't answer the question about the distributor having single or double pickups. As far as I know, the ignition switch is original. One of the mechanics I recently spoke with told me that wiring problems were pretty common for the 240s and 260s. Perhaps the problem I'm having with the car dying under load can be attributed to a faulty wire in the ignition switch?

I didn't really describe the overrun thing very well. When I shut the car down, it coughs and sputters like it doesn't want to shut down. I think this is probably a separate issue from the car dying under load, possibly a carburator adjustment. If the tune-up I have planned for this weekend doesn't get the car driveable, then I will just suck it up and have it towed to a local garage for a proper diagnostics check.

Thanks for the info on the modulator. I'm always interested in hearing the pros and cons of any modifications being considered.
 

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Most of the "overrun" problems can be tagged to either ignition or fuel delivery problems (too rich)

Before you dabble in the module dept, finish the tuneup, and set the ignition timing from scratch.

Obviously, a retarded spark will limit the rpm's and that may be what's causing yours to "die under load"

Since you stated it was a '260', I'm guessing you have carbs? The possibility also exists that you have fuel leakage after shut-off, and the combination of the leakage and rich mixture will also cause the same condition. Check the condition of your plugs when you take 'em out for a good indication of whats going on in the cylinders.

The other issue would be with carbon deposits in the cylinders keeping a "hot spot" long enough to maintain firing of the fuel as long as it's available.
 

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i have a wells ignition module which is better then stock, you can have it for 12 bucks shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm interested in the wells module you're offering. Please e-mail me with additional details for payment and shipping [paypal?]. Thanks!

Also, what reccomendations do you have for an electric fuel pump [oem, aftermarket]?
 
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