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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 75 280 Z. It's in great shape, but the darn Brakes Squeel really bad. It sounds like the whistle stop Busses. I've already brought it to one shop and they cleaned my breaks for me. But, as soon as they heat up a little, they squeek like there's no tomorrow. Does anyone have a solution?

Thanks,
Chris
 

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> I have a 75 280 Z. It's in great shape, but
> the darn Brakes Squeel really bad. It sounds
> like the whistle stop Busses.
> I've already brought it to one shop and they
> cleaned my breaks for me. But, as soon as
> they heat up a little, they squeek like
> there's no tomorrow. Does anyone have a
> solution?

> Thanks,
> Chris
i've had this prob.
try new pads and resurfacing everything
there must be some glazing on the drums/rotors.
 

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> I have a 75 280 Z. It's in great shape, but
> the darn Brakes Squeel really bad. It sounds
> like the whistle stop Busses.
> I've already brought it to one shop and they
> cleaned my breaks for me. But, as soon as
> they heat up a little, they squeek like
> there's no tomorrow. Does anyone have a
> solution?

> Thanks,
> Chris
Chris, Try resurfacing the rotors, install new
organic or non metallic pads, and put a dab of
high-temp RTV silicone between the anti-squeal
shim and brake pad. This did the trick for me.
Good Luck.
 

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> Chris, Try resurfacing the rotors, install
> new
> organic or non metallic pads, and put a dab
> of
> high-temp RTV silicone between the
> anti-squeal
> shim and brake pad. This did the trick for
> me.
> Good Luck.

Chris,

I did all of these things over the course of a year, even thought maybe the calipers were the culprit and chaged them, too. No luck! They still squeaked, until.....

I talked to Motorsprt Auto and they sold me a shim and pin kit ($19 or $29) I installed these with brake grease all over them, guess what? Never has squealed since.

It turns out the pins have a tendency to rust and hang up, causing vibration-- that's the squeal.

I also bought there pads at the same time.

Good Luck.

Matt
 

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> Chris,

> I did all of these things over the course of
> a year, even thought maybe the calipers were
> the culprit and chaged them, too. No luck!
> They still squeaked, until.....

> I talked to Motorsprt Auto and they sold me
> a shim and pin kit ($19 or $29) I installed
> these with brake grease all over them, guess
> what? Never has squealed since.

> It turns out the pins have a tendency to
> rust and hang up, causing vibration-- that's
> the squeal.

> I also bought there pads at the same time.

> Good Luck.

> Matt

Discount auto parts has something called DISC BRAKE QUIET made by PERMATEX. It is something you spray on the back of the pads that is supose to quiet them. Sam 75 280z
 

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Totally agree: Anti squeal Shim!

> Chris,

> I did all of these things over the course of
> a year, even thought maybe the calipers were
> the culprit and chaged them, too. No luck!
> They still squeaked, until.....

> I talked to Motorsprt Auto and they sold me
> a shim and pin kit ($19 or $29) I installed
> these with brake grease all over them, guess
> what? Never has squealed since.

> It turns out the pins have a tendency to
> rust and hang up, causing vibration-- that's
> the squeal.

I totally agree with you! He needs the antisqueal shims.

I did my pads recently and tried without the shims(steel shims that fit between caliper and pads) and used the blue crap in the squeeze ketchup container which does NOT work. Luckily I retrieved the shims which I almost turned in with my cores for the exchange at the auto supply shop.

Unfortunately--the day i tested my new pads without the shims--it was stop and go traffic for sixteen annoying squealing miles! Live and learn. I quickly replaced them and no more squeal.
 

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Ok, I also have a '75, but I sell auto parts and am ASE certified also. Brakes do not squeal from bad pins or shims. They squeal from vibration induced from an out of balance condition on the rotors, hub assy's, bad bearings, etc. Early Zcars are especially prone to this because of thin rotors, cheap pad materials, and or inadequate rotor surface prep. If you have your rotors turned, take them in with hub assy's still on them. The shop will be able(if they are good) to turn them. This makes everything balanced as the rotors spin, even if the hubs are out of flat where the rotors mount. Also, use a semimetallic pad, as organic pads resonate at a higher frequency than organic ones do. Plus, Buy only good pads(Bendix, Raybestos, come to mind).
I have 100K on my original rotors and I live in PA. and am on only my second set of pads. If you can still find them, the Bendix # is MKD161. Good Luck.
 
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