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Discussion Starter #1
Really bored now so I figure i'll do a quick write up on how to install the basic Megasquirt and Spark system. Advanced warning I do not have the relay board.

This is my setup some differances may occur.

EDIT: This is for the 82/83 turbo dizzy style.

Parts required
1. Megasquirt control board (available at diyautotune.com)
2. Wiring harness (also available, you can use your own but this makes it easy)
3. IAT sensor (available at any GM/ford dealership as well as autozone ect...)
4. extra Vaccum hose for MS unit (same size as the vaccum canister uses)
5. Data link cable (to link MS and a laptop / computer for tuning)
6. Solder / soldering iron
7. Heat shrink (varriable sizes)
8. Zip ties, and electrical tape.
9. a couple 1k resistors

Parts not required but good to have
1. New Bosche style pigtails (for fuel injectors and CHTS)
2. Dielectric grease
3. Wide band O2 sensor
4. Relay control board
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Ok now onto the install process.

DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!!
1. First find a place that you will be mounting the MS ECU to. I sugest a place that is accesable to connect tuning cable to.
2. Lay out the wiring harness and take a carefull look at all the wires.

Injector wiring
Big blue and green wires

1. Take #1-#3 injector pigtails and splice the signal side to the green wire. ( measure out the distance between injectors)
2. Do the same for #4-#6 but with the blue wire
3. Now for the power side splice in a single Wire to all 6 injectors (I used a big red wire 12guage I believe)


Signal wiring
1. you will see a small 16/18 guage brown wire, this goes to the negative
side of the coil for the MS to send the spark signal too.

CHTS wiring
1. The yellow wire in the harness is for the CHTS so route that over to the other side of the engine and splice it into the new pig tail (if you got one) the other side of that pigtail goes to ground.

O2 sensor wiring
1. This is the Pink wire in the harness. Its pretty self evident what to do here.

IAT sensor
1. Now this wire is the Orange one in the harness. Once you have figured out where you are going to install the sensor just wire like the CHTS. (I have mine installed into the J-pipe where the hose fitting goes to the valve cover)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Dizzy Wiring
1. Now this is a little more complicated. (credit to mobythevan at Hybridz)

DIZZY WIRE COLORS!!!
if you use the wire at the dizzy, versus after the 4 pin round connector:

Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side
Red ---- (12v) B/W
White ---- (MS trigger) G/B
Green ---- (not used) G/Y
Black ---- (gnd) Black

Follow this picture for installing the 1k resistors

[attachment 16360 dizzywiring.jpg]

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Now for the red wire (12V) run that wire to the red wire in the MS harness. Also while you are wiring the dizzy 12v also take the 12v wire from the injectors and splice it into the MS 12V wire. Also Splice in another power wire to a switched to power source. (I used the Fuel pump relay under the dash so when the pump turns on the MS unit recieves power.

[attachment 16361 POWERWIRE.jpg]



You can run the MS without using the TPS (3 bar map sensor in the MS board v3 and 3.57 runs of vaccum from the engine)

Or you can get a 240sx TPS and wire that in. (via Mobythevan agian)

240sx TPS wiring
My 240sx TPS has 3 wires coming out of it to a seperate pigtail connector as well as a connector built onto the TPS sensor. The connector on the TPS sensor does not plug into anything. The wires that come out to the pigtail are connected to the relay board as follows:

Red to Vref
White to TPS
Black to ground

for the Vaccuum line that goes into the MS ecu just plug it in to the attachment and run the line to a spot on the intake. (i use mine where they boost guage connects too using a t-fitting)

Reconnect the Battery and watch for any sparks / smoke. To be safe I installed a inline fuse from the 12v switched to power to the fuel pump relay switch. That way if any thing happens you wont fry your ECU board a 20 amp fuse is what I use.

Other wires in the MS harness

1. Black wires are the grounds I just spliced them together and put them to a common ground point in the side wall.
2. Purple fuel pump relay wire - I did not use
3. There are a few other wires that I dont use as well cant remeber colors off hand.

Will post pics of everything as I have it setup as i can.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah if i were you i would go for the MS2 setup with spark. Reason why is that its even more tuneable and the fact that EDIS works better with ms2. Also a better tuning program for MS2 called tunerstudio is available as a free download from DIY's site.
 

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Likely the most straight forward write-up I've seen. Thank you. One question, when using the 240SX TPS, do you need to also use the 240SX TB or can you add the compatible TPS to the 280ZXT TB? When you say wiring harness, do you mean the relay board that they sell?

The following diagram is also very informative.

[attachment 16370 megaWiring.gif]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^^^ that is a great diagram its what they send if you buy their wiring harness. No when I mean the harness I mean they sell the complete wiring for everything that connects to the MS ECU.

Now as far as the TPS you can use the Stock T/B but you will need to make a custom bracket for it to screw into. Also when you wire it up you use the pigtail of the TPS and not the plug.
 

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When I did MS II V3 I used the relay board and I rewired everything. I mounted the MS board where the old ECU was and ran the connector cable to the relay board in the engine bay. I also used a new IAT and CLT from DIYautotune as well as the Innovative WBO2 from them. Everything works together and fried up and started the first time I tried. All thanks to the write ups on the interwebs lol

It really isn't as bad as it seems when reading about it. Installing MS is one of those things you have to do to understand it fully. I was flabergasted reading all pages of install notes and tuning procedures. Until you get balls deep into do you actually see how easy it really is.

Good Luck with MS, enjoy the benefits and being able to say you custom built, installed/wired and tuned your cars ECU! LOL

EDIT EDIT EDIT

Here is a nice diagram of the wiring for the Relay Board.

[attachment 16382 280zxt_relay_wiring.gif]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah Cyind I got alot of info from Moby. All i did was simplify the wiring setups and not just focus'ing on the dizzy and tps. Also not as many people here check out hybrid.


If any one actually uses this walk through I would sugest reading Moby's post for a more in depth install process.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah never thought of that, good idea you have great ideas as always.


And if any one has any questions feel free to ask me.
 

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No you can run MS on N/A cars as well. The wiring is a tad different since you can usually only run fuel and not the spark with these older cars. You can go with an EDIS system for coil on plugs to do spark as well though.
 

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1. First find a place that you will be mounting the MS ECU to. I sugest a place that is accesable to connect tuning cable to.

So I am thinking the location of the stock ECU or the stock ignition module (75 280Z) would be good. Kind of leaning toward ECU in driver's side kick panel as there is more room, and when I pull the factory fuel harness out there will be a firewall penetration to use.

If you have done this please share your experience and any pros/cons to the location you used.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's where I put mine, where the stock ecu is located. Took some time to get the harness through but it worked fine. If I were to do it again I would get some aircraft cannon plugs and wire them through that so I could be a QD system.
 

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I put an MS3Pro EVO on my stroker 240z replacing a Jim Wolf setup. I got that because I really wanted tunability with sequential and coil on plug. I also have some other cool options: ethanol content sensor, 2 knock sensors, electric fan control (not installed yet in the pictures), and electronic boost control, though I haven't even got into those yet. I finished the changeover right at the END of summer. Runs GREAT after allowing the auto-tune to fill in the fuel tables, and makes a ton of torque. It would seem my timing table is more aggressive than what I see most people doing though. I'm not running any heater, so I installed the ECU under the dash and cables went through the heater core holes. To support the E-85 potential, I installed 62lb injectors from injector clinic, fuel rail, a 100GPH fuel pump and all new fuel lines. Turbo is a Garett T3/TO4E. Highly recommend MS! IMG_4351.jpg IMG_4355.jpg 59078253575__79F78515-5A08-46E2-BA9D-C7480FCF735D.JPG
 
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