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Discussion Starter #1
to completely strip the engine bay of a 280Z for painting? I don't mean paint prep, but taking out all of the junk. I was talking to my mechanic, and he was acting like it was a HHHUUUGGEE task. (I'm thinking $1000's in my head). He said that I can't just take all the stuff out myself because they do it a certain way (label wires, etc).

Is this true? What does it mean in terms of cost? Is my $5000 performance engine rebuild going to turn into a $10000 job if I want the engine bay painted? The body is already painted and looks fantastic.

Thanks,

- Matt
 

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You are talking about a long and fun job. Do it yourself. I hope you have a nother Z to drive around while your other Z's getting worked on. The car your painting hopefully is just for weekends right? Unless you have $$$$ dollars, dollars, dollars, I wouldn't pay a mechanic to do it for me.


tip,
take lots of poleroids, sometimes you end up with extra parts when the engine is back together... lol.=)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No....

I'm not going to take it apart myself. This is a very professionally done car and I'm not about to screw it up. It just doesn't make sense. There isn't THAT much stuff under there. I mean, 10 hours I can beleive to take everything out and label the wires etc. But it can't be like 50 hours or something rediculous. Especially for someone who has done it before.


BTW I'm talking about the amount of work after the engine/tranny are pulled and with access to a hydraulic jack.
 

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Re: No....

Understood. I think your mechanics are trying to bend you over. Get second and third quotes and opinions from other mechanics. You ever thought about going to a technician school?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: No....

Please don't misunderstand, I haven't actually gotten a quote. I was thinking $1200-1500 would be reasonable to strip the engine bay then get it painted, but from tone of voice, etc. it sounded like it would be 3 times that. However, this makes no sense to me, it can't possibly be that much work.
 

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Re: No....

Dude,
Have you thought about asking the mechanic exactly how long it's gonna take, and ask for a quote? Stop worrying about it bein 5000000000hrs and ask


my .o2

Josh
 

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If not yourself, be prepared to PAY!

I completely stripped my car with no problems. Removing the motor is easy.
First remove hood
unhook the EFI harness and mark where everything goes.
Next unhook the electrical harness that runs thru the passanger firewall, again label where everything goes.
Unhook throttle linkage, brake booster hose.
If you have A/C, unbolt the compressor and lay to the side.
drain and remove radaitor.
remove fan
remove afm with the boots.
remove carbon can
unhook driveline
unbolt trans mount and engine mounts and get the engine lift ready.

Once the engine is out, now the fun begins...
unhook the brake lines from the master cylinder.
remove brake booster and master cylinder as a unit.
unhook the clutch line from clutch master.
remove the clutch master
remove dropping resistor packs
unbolt the brake proportioning valve, leave the lines in the valve. Unbolt the body clamps for the lines, leaving as much as you can intact. One of the lines will go to the rear of the car, so unbolt as many body clamps as needed to move the line out of the way.
Unhook the ecu and push the connector end through the firewall.
The electrical harness on the passenger side is a little tricky... it will need to be fed through the firewall to the passenger area. Yes, the fusable link boxes will fit through the hole. It is tight, but will work.
Unhook the speedo cable and remove
Same with the hook latch, remove latch, unhook cable from latch and feed though firewall.
I'm sure I left something out... just be sure to take photos, notes, label EVERYTHING, and you will be ok.

I did all the above stuff this summer and got it all working again.
I used alot of paint stripper to remove the old paint to get to bare metal. Along with alot of wire wheel brushes, small grinding disks, ect...
 

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Or...the easy way...

My car looks like somebody punched a hole in a can of flat black spray paint and slammed the hood shut! It's ugly, but at least it's 'uniform'.

steve 77
 

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For the ¢ it might be worth.

Being an old body man, I might be able to shed a little bit of light into it.

The Body men, i.e. the guys that would actually work on preparing the area for paint, and painting it, detest, hate, and otherwise abhor GREASE WORK, aside from their thinking that it's just messy and generally a huge PITA.

The mechanics, (and here I can only relate what I've been told) hate body work because: "that sh*t never comes out right" and why go through all the hazzles of removing stuff that ain't broke. And just who is going to remove what and be responsible for the stuff afterwards? (i.e. electrical wire harness', fender rubber, body clips, adjusting all this body stuff back together)

To work out a compromise, might mean that you take it to one to have certain work done, then to the other and back to the first to finish it.

If you are already planning on having the engine and tranny removed for other work, then you're half-way there. If you'll be removing the master brake cylinder, the vacuum assist and other parts currently bolted to the firewall, then you are really getting there. Removing the electronic items, relays and wire harness might be something that you need to undertake.

Bottom line, you might have to do some of the work yourself, but this beats the "it'll take years" estimate as well as the "there's only one RIGHT way to do that".

Winoman's post succintly states what you have to do. Probably the hardest part is routing the tubing and wiring harness in and out of all the corners and openings.

The old method of labeling wiring harnesses is good, if you're real anal about making sure that EACH AND EVERY wire that you have on that loom is labeled and identified as to connection, and in the case of the Z's the ones that are NOT connected (fog light, auto tranny relay, etc).

If you have access to a digital camera or a polaroid and you don't mind the cost of the film, make sure you take and PRINT good COLOR photos. Then label the photo on the back and identify which sequence step you were on.

Something like:
"Step 7 Connectors at RH Front Fender, leading to Wire Harness along front of car. Note rubber cover over connectors --torn, TO BE REPLACED,"
Also give yourself special notes that help identify problem spots such as: "Brake lines over frame member, NOTE MOUNTING" as well as reminders "10mm bolts holding bracket, note sheet metal screw holding cowl"

This may seem just as crazy and anal as labeling each wire, but the next time you're trying to remember whether it was a black wire no stripe or a black with a white that went to the Right Hand side of the Coil, and how the **** did I tell myself I was going to remember which side was the correct side anyhow, and you'll thank yourself.

I've replaced the entire wire harness on my dash, as well as added and corrected items necessary for mine (AT vs Manual), and this method makes it a cinch to refer to the area and play connect the wire.

Good Luck
 

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BFS!

You should be able to remove almost everything f rom the fender wells and hang it on the engine, and cover it all with a tarp for painting. That's the way I did mine, and it only took me 8 hours. Pull the EFI harness from the ECU and drape it on the top, some of the stuff is tricky to remove and paint AROUND, but a good spray booth guy will have no problem with it. Fuel, A/C, and brake lines pose the biggest pain, as they are in the way, and it's up to you as to how you will deal with them--everything else is pretty much idiot proof or flexible enough to move where it's not in the way.
 
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