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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Z is in the shop having a significan amount of bodywork right now as we speak. I am shaving the door hanles, locks, putting in new floorboards, a rocker panel, altering the fuel door, etc.

While I got the welder handy, I was wondering if we should put in strut braces similar to what you have. I was originally thinking about using a strut-to-strut removable brace, but your compartment has me intrigued.

Can you comment and provide instructions if possible?
 

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I prefer the braces that I have over the strut bar set up. I have worked on Zs that have the strut bar from the shock towers and it always seems to be in the way. The braces that I have definatly stiffen the front end, they are welded to plates on the frame rails and inside the rails I re-enforced it with angle iron so that the sway bar bolts up into the angle iron and not the original blind nuts that were in there. I will e mail you some pictures without the engine in it and you can see a better view of them.
 

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These pictures are big! but you can see

How the bars are fastened under the hood
<img src=http://www3.telus.net/240z/240z%20no%20engine.gif>
<img src=http://www3.telus.net/240z/240z%20no%20undersidefr.jpg>
 

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Hey thats my old car!!!!!

i thought the engine bars looked familiar and then looked at it some more.....

i did the floors and bracing like 8 years ago then sold it as a roller with no driveline and interior. it was to be a race car and then got put back on the street
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Shaver!

Definitely. The sheet metal work is being done right now. Probably still several months away from installing the hardware. Also, I am "shaving" my gas door and installing a cool filler cap that came from a 96 Honda. Will also probably shave the rear deck opener. Already shaved the pillar vent, side marker lights, antenna. Trying to work up the courage to remove the drip channels over the windows.
 

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Re: Hey WilleyBoy

Shaving the door handles was a pain in the A$$, but here is a couple of things i did.
1) If you do not mind not having door handles on the inside of the door. Take the driver side handle and cut the release mechanism of of it, do the same to the passenger side and reverse the door sides they were mounted on. Instead of bolting them to the door facing the inside of the seats, bolt them to the inside of the door facing the outside of the door. This gives you a guide track for the Selenoid wire. I mounted my selenoids to the bottom of the door, (you know the space where you would put a speaker) Oh yea, forget about mounting speakers in the door, not enough room.
2) Make sure you have a big capacity battery, these babies pull 30amps a piece.
3) to release the doors i have three ways,
A) remote control key fob
B) two momentary keyswitches mounted in the console
C) A supplied heavy duty smash button in the rear deck, accesible through the hatch.
4) Back up battery, i use a 7.0AH Dry cell battery in the small hatch compartment behind the seat. Quick connects (this battery is good for only one pull.
5) Its up to you, but if you have a totally Battery melt down, and you shave your hatch button......how are you going to get in the car????
6) I put security tint on the hatch and rear windows, and clear security film on the driver and passenger window, so you ain't getting into this Baby with anything less than a pickaxe!
Even if you get into the rear hatch, you have to have a midget get into the front seat through a series of support bars for the roll cage......then what?.......try to hot wire the doors open?.......easier to break into the BMW or Mercedes i alway like to park beside.
Any questions? You know where i am.
I also installed a rearview camera with a 5" monitor, a remote control stereo, a Alpine V-12 400wat amp, a upgraded Altinator and a 900 cranking amp Interstate Battery.
 
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