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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1976 280Z coupe with federal engine-(no catalytic converter, egr valve or floor temperature warning light). It has a dual coil distributor and 4 speed transmission.

It hasn't run for over a year now, because I can't get the coil to spark.

Here is a list of what I've done:

4 new fusible links (from advice on this page)
Stripped the covering off the fusible link wires (from advice on this page), looking for corrosion or broken wires- found none. All four pass voltage light test
New reluctor and reluctor coils
Ignition coil checks out for impedance and voltage. I also tried known good coils- butstill no spark
Electronic ignition seems to check out ok with '77 manual instructions with a volt-ohm meter, including power transistor
Checked ECU multi pin connector for ground pins and found none
Checked ECU multi pin connector for voltage pins and found none
Lower right hand fuse (1 amp) on fuse panel is ground potential. This one is supposed to govern the seat belt warning light and ignition, but I don't know where it connects to the ignition circuit. It appears to be shorting the ignition pulse?.

When the problem first began, I could sometimes get it to start by thumping on the fusible link mounting bracket.

I'm about at my wits end with this one and have offered the car (rust free) for sale, (see cars for sale, this web page). If no takers or no solution, this one's going to the junk yard. Can someone offer a plausible solution befrore I'm forced to scrap it?

Thanks
Enjoy the ride
Ron Womack
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I am not familiar with the '76 but when I start to troubleshoot an ignition system the first thing I ask myself is am I getting power to the primary side of the coil? If so... I look to the distributor, ignition module, pick up coil, and coil for the problem.

So... here's what I'd do.

With the ignition switch on I'd check for voltage to ground from the coil + terminal. If I don't have it, check the system from the fusible links all the way through the switch, ignition relay etc. Look for loose or dirty connections, bad wires, and don't overlook bad contacts in the ignition switch.

If you have voltage there check the wiring to the distributor, pick up coil (in the distributor), and don't forget the stator magnet. (although I don't think they usually fail). If all connections are good and grounds are good, check for pulsing out of the pick up coil. (you'll have to refer to a '76 manual for proper connections). If you have pulsing, possible problems are the coil, ignition module (power transistor) or (don't overlook the little things) a bad coil wire, distributor cap, rotor etc.

Hope this helps...

Good Luck!

Bob A.

> I have a 1976 280Z coupe with federal
> engine-(no catalytic converter, egr valve or
> floor temperature warning light). It has a
> dual coil distributor and 4 speed
> transmission.

> It hasn't run for over a year now, because I
> can't get the coil to spark.

> Here is a list of what I've done:

> 4 new fusible links (from advice on this
> page)
> Stripped the covering off the fusible link
> wires (from advice on this page), looking
> for corrosion or broken wires- found none.
> All four pass voltage light test
> New reluctor and reluctor coils
> Ignition coil checks out for impedance and
> voltage. I also tried known good coils-
> butstill no spark
> Electronic ignition seems to check out ok
> with '77 manual instructions with a volt-ohm
> meter, including power transistor
> Checked ECU multi pin connector for ground
> pins and found none
> Checked ECU multi pin connector for voltage
> pins and found none
> Lower right hand fuse (1 amp) on fuse panel
> is ground potential. This one is supposed to
> govern the seat belt warning light and
> ignition, but I don't know where it connects
> to the ignition circuit. It appears to be
> shorting the ignition pulse?.

> When the problem first began, I could
> sometimes get it to start by thumping on the
> fusible link mounting bracket.

> I'm about at my wits end with this one and
> have offered the car (rust free) for sale,
> (see cars for sale, this web page). If no
> takers or no solution, this one's going to
> the junk yard. Can someone offer a plausible
> solution befrore I'm forced to scrap it?

> Thanks
> Enjoy the ride
> Ron Womack
 
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