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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just rebuilt my engine, including a valve job and now find out that even though I drained my gas tank and refilled with fresh, there was enough sediment and **** remaning in the tank to completely sieze up my intake valves (and God knows what else is damaged). I have only 15 minutes of run-time on the engine, so the question is:

Should I go through another valve job (since the head is off the car again). Or can I soak the head in something that would eat away the varnish and save me the $200 for the valve job?

Thanks for the input

Steve G
 

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Re: DWG oil treatment works!!

> I just rebuilt my engine, including a valve
> job and now find out that even though I
> drained my gas tank and refilled with fresh,
> there was enough sediment and **** remaning
> in the tank to completely sieze up my intake
> valves (and God knows what else is damaged).
> I have only 15 minutes of run-time on the
> engine, so the question is:

> Should I go through another valve job (since
> the head is off the car again). Or can I
> soak the head in something that
> would eat away the varnish and save me the
> $200 for the valve job?

Steve, I've used a product called DWG oil treatment. it works!!! and has a money-back guarantee. $18.00. plus shipping
> Thanks for the input

> Steve G
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm, I would NOT soak you head in ANYTHING corrosive. If you do you might get rid of the varnish and save yourself $200, but you will have smoking seals. The valve seals are generally made of rubber and they are the only thing keeping the oil from leaking into the manifold, the break down fairly easily in harsh chemicals. I know, I did it. If you want to get rid of the varnish, take the head down yourself. Soak the valves and brush them clean, also use a pipe cleaner to clean the hole they slide through in the head, then reassemble the head. This is just my thoughts and experiences. I had horrible results when soaking my head, valve seals just fell apart. Well, hope this helps a bit, but again this is just one man's experience.

Bean Bandit
 

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Spend $30, save $200

Hey Steve,
What I would do is get yourself a Valve spring compressor, not the overhead type though, either rent one from Checker for free or buy one at Sears for $25, and pull apart all of the valves yourself. It is not hard, just takes about an hour. Buy yourself a 12 compartment bin big enough to hold the springs, rocker arms, etc for each valve. You have to keep them seperated and in respective locations, ie 1 exhaust, 1 intake, 2 exhaust...and keep them in groups with this container. About $5 at K-mart or Wal-Mart. Make sure you mark and follow the container, it is easier than baggies, but those suffice also. Next, get your parts cleaning dish and brush and use Carbuerator cleaner on the valves, this takes that stuff off great, along with carbon, not that yours will have any buildup. Use it on the guides also. Like Bean Bandit said, do not get it on the seals, it will eat them. After you have it all cleaned, probably about 15-30 minutes, use grease and oil and reassemble the head. This is not hard, takes about 2-2.5 hours. So, if you make about 80 bucks an hour or more, it is probably cheaper to have the shop do it, if not, go for it yourself. You do not have to have them reground or cut, just clean them up.
Good Luck,
Joshua L.
 

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Spend $30, Save $200-Sorry Steve

Hey Steve,
What I would do is get yourself a Valve spring compressor, not the overhead type though, either rent one from Checker for free or buy one at Sears for $25, and pull apart all of the valves yourself. It is not hard, just takes about an hour. Buy yourself a 12 compartment bin big enough to hold the springs, rocker arms, etc for each valve. You have to keep them seperated and in respective locations, ie 1 exhaust, 1 intake, 2 exhaust...and keep them in groups with this container. About $5 at K-mart or Wal-Mart. Make sure you mark and follow the container, it is easier than baggies, but those suffice also. Next, get your parts cleaning dish and brush and use Carbuerator cleaner on the valves, this takes that stuff off great, along with carbon, not that yours will have any buildup. Use it on the guides also. Like Bean Bandit said, do not get it on the seals, it will eat them. After you have it all cleaned, probably about 15-30 minutes, use grease and oil and reassemble the head. This is not hard, takes about 2-2.5 hours. So, if you make about 80 bucks an hour or more, it is probably cheaper to have the shop do it, if not, go for it yourself. You do not have to have them reground or cut, just clean them up.
Good Luck,
Joshua L.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the input guys!

Too late!

I called the machine shop to put a stop work oder in and they had already done the job.

At least I won't have any nagging doubts about the quality of my valve job, eh?

Thanks again - This forum RULES!

Steve G
 
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