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Discussion Starter #1
Driving home last night my slight valve tap turned into a huge one & before I could get out of rush-hour traffic, she quit. Got it towed home & checked the oil - barely any. Now, I just got the car & have been very conscientious about checking the fluids regularly. I've noticed some (very little) smoke at start-up but no major smoke when driving & when it broke down there was no smoke either. Makes me think the oil pump quit & the oil couldn't get to the top end but where did the oil go?
Now she won't even turn over & I'm at odds as to what to do next. I need to manually turn the engine to see if the cylinders are fused, right?
What's the least, most inexpensive fix? I'm guessing replace the bottom end & try to salvage the top end.
It'sa '77 280Z with an L28 in-line 6 5-speed & with 135,000 on it but I don't know how badly it's been abused. She ran great for a month with no problems.
I'd appreciate any advise in this area -it's not my area of expertise. thanks!
 

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> Driving home last night my slight valve tap
> turned into a huge one & before I could
> get out of rush-hour traffic, she quit. Got
> it towed home & checked the oil - barely
> any. Now, I just got the car & have been
> very conscientious about checking the fluids
> regularly. I've noticed some (very little)
> smoke at start-up but no major smoke when
> driving & when it broke down there was
> no smoke either. Makes me think the oil pump
> quit & the oil couldn't get to the top
> end but where did the oil go?
> Now she won't even turn over & I'm at
> odds as to what to do next. I need to
> manually turn the engine to see if the
> cylinders are fused, right?
> What's the least, most inexpensive fix? I'm
> guessing replace the bottom end & try to
> salvage the top end.
> It'sa '77 280Z with an L28 in-line 6 5-speed
> & with 135,000 on it but I don't know
> how badly it's been abused. She ran great
> for a month with no problems.
> I'd appreciate any advise in this area -it's
> not my area of expertise. thanks!
John,
You definitely need to see if you can turn it over by hand. I'd disassemble and try to salvage the lower end before I discarded it. The L28 is a really tough engine and 135,000 miles isjust broken in. Properly maintained these engines have been known to last over 400,000 miles.
You definitely need to find out where the oil went. I don't know where you got the car but my bet would be they probably have an idea what the problem is. If you approach them right you can probably get some help on the rebuild.
As Teddy Roosevelt once said: Speak softly but carry a big stick!
Phantom
 

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Perfect time to V8 it!!!!

> John,
> You definitely need to see if you can turn
> it over by hand. I'd disassemble and try to
> salvage the lower end before I discarded it.
> The L28 is a really tough engine and 135,000
> miles isjust broken in. Properly maintained
> these engines have been known to last over
> 400,000 miles.
> You definitely need to find out where the
> oil went. I don't know where you got the car
> but my bet would be they probably have an
> idea what the problem is. If you approach
> them right you can probably get some help on
> the rebuild.
> As Teddy Roosevelt once said: Speak
> softly but carry a big stick!
> Phantom
n/c
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Phantom!

That's what I was thinking - the body work is done & it's been painted but I thought with 130,000 it would probably rust out before the engine went. Oh well, it's good to know those L28's can take some punishment - forged blocks are the way to go. If I can salvage it, I'd like to - someone offered me a modified V8 but at $2,500 it's a bit more than I can afford at Christmas!
Thanks again - this web site has been a real help.
 

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The X-Mass Motor Gift.... (Thanks Stan!!)

I was given a motor by Stan in Waco. Once I have it and put it back together, I will have parts from my car left over. If you are close and can use them you are welcome to them. My motor runs, but is also on its last leg. I think I have a bad rod bearing, I added a good thick oil to it and the knocking stopped. But it runs. So if you can use what I have, you are welcome to it. Steve was very generous, by giving me a motor to work with, so when I put the new motor in, you can have mine. I am in Houston, and will be rebuilding the new motor this weekend and over the next week (provide it goes smoothly and I can afford all the rebuild kit + parts) So when I am done, if ya like come and get it. I think if you took care of the motor I have you could probably drive it wile you rebuild your other motor. You can e-mail me for more info.

Thanks

John Cooney
 

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The first thing I'd look at is the transmission area, it sounds like it might be a blown rear main seal and you will see a lot of oil around the bellhousing. check out the front seal while your at it. Does the car have a high pressure oil pump in it? People like to put them in even though it's not the best thing to do for a street car. The high volume pump is better. You might just have to have the seals replaced and maybe the camshaft also. Did you take a look at your oil pressure when the tapping started? With that many miles it's odd to have a seal go out unless the car's running the high pressure oil pump. Good luck...

> Driving home last night my slight valve tap
> turned into a huge one & before I could
> get out of rush-hour traffic, she quit. Got
> it towed home & checked the oil - barely
> any. Now, I just got the car & have been
> very conscientious about checking the fluids
> regularly. I've noticed some (very little)
> smoke at start-up but no major smoke when
> driving & when it broke down there was
> no smoke either. Makes me think the oil pump
> quit & the oil couldn't get to the top
> end but where did the oil go?
> Now she won't even turn over & I'm at
> odds as to what to do next. I need to
> manually turn the engine to see if the
> cylinders are fused, right?
> What's the least, most inexpensive fix? I'm
> guessing replace the bottom end & try to
> salvage the top end.
> It'sa '77 280Z with an L28 in-line 6 5-speed
> & with 135,000 on it but I don't know
> how badly it's been abused. She ran great
> for a month with no problems.
> I'd appreciate any advise in this area -it's
> not my area of expertise. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: The X-Mass Motor Gift.... (Thanks Stan!!)

> I was given a motor by Stan in Waco. Once I
> have it and put it back together, I will
> have parts from my car left over. If you are
> close and can use them you are welcome to
> them. My motor runs, but is also on its last
> leg. I think I have a bad rod bearing, I
> added a good thick oil to it and the
> knocking stopped. But it runs. So if you can
> use what I have, you are welcome to it.
> Steve was very generous, by giving me a
> motor to work with, so when I put the new
> motor in, you can have mine. I am in
> Houston, and will be rebuilding the new
> motor this weekend and over the next week
> (provide it goes smoothly and I can afford
> all the rebuild kit + parts) So when I am
> done, if ya like come and get it. I think if
> you took care of the motor I have you could
> probably drive it wile you rebuild your
> other motor. You can e-mail me for more
> info.

> Thanks

> John Cooney
Thanks for responding - I wish I were anywhere even close - I'd take you up on it. I'm still trying to see if I can rescue this one. This weekend I was too busy to get to it but a buddy is going to come over tonight with a breaker bar & we're going to try to manually crank it. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? Any way that I can lube the top end before I try this? Or will pulling the valve cover tell me for sure if I'm seized? I've never had to do this before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
> Driving home last night my slight valve tap
> turned into a huge one & before I could
> get out of rush-hour traffic, she quit. Got
> it towed home & checked the oil - barely
> any. Now, I just got the car & have been
> very conscientious about checking the fluids
> regularly. I've noticed some (very little)
> smoke at start-up but no major smoke when
> driving & when it broke down there was
> no smoke either. Makes me think the oil pump
> quit & the oil couldn't get to the top
> end but where did the oil go?
> Now she won't even turn over & I'm at
> odds as to what to do next. I need to
> manually turn the engine to see if the
> cylinders are fused, right?
> What's the least, most inexpensive fix? I'm
> guessing replace the bottom end & try to
> salvage the top end.
> It'sa '77 280Z with an L28 in-line 6 5-speed
> & with 135,000 on it but I don't know
> how badly it's been abused. She ran great
> for a month with no problems.
> I'd appreciate any advise in this area -it's
> not my area of expertise. thanks!
Okay, here we go... used the magical Marvel's mystery Oil this weekend - pulled the valve cover too just so I could see everything. Oil return tubes were super clogged - tried cleaning with coat hanger & gave everything a bath with MMO. Managed to unseize but when we hit dead center seemed to hit a dead spot & couldn't get it past there.
Seems to me that it ran so hot the bad cylinder I had fused & caused a deformity in the cylinder head that I can't get past but I'm far from an expert in this area. Do I have to pull the head & have all the cylinders milled? And I still don't know if I've done any damage to the piston, do I?
Is it better to start from scratch or rebuild this one? At 130,000 I feel like it's just a baby but if it's been abused maybe I should go for rebuilt. Nissan sells re-manufactured w/ 5/50 warranty for $1,700.
Sorry for being so long-winded but this is breaking my heart! (And my Christmas budget!)
 

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Here we go, first pull the motor. You'll have to do that anyway. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the head. Look at your cylinder walls and see if they are scored. If so, look on the bright side, you can have a big bore kit! Pour the mystery oil on top of the cylinders an then crank the cylinders. That should unfreeze them.
It sound like you starved a cylinder of oil. Be a big guy and give that motor a rebuild. If you are a member of a local zclub, you can probably get big discounts at some parts stores. I saved about 200 bucks on my rebuild just by being a member.
To go back stock with my motor costs me about $500.
 
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