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Discussion Starter #1
The hoses to the heater control valve and hose running into the firewall from the control valve are not hot (they are a little warm, but thats from heat radiating off the engine) The hoses have no leaks or cracks so I'm thinking it's either the control valve has closed shut or seized or there is no vacume pushing hot air through the hose. Any ideas or input?
 

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You can move the valve manually to see if it is stuck or it works...warm the car up and lift the lever at the bottom...check for heat thru the hose...check for vacuum.

If all else fails...you can wire the lever up about 1/2 way and get thru the winter by using the windows to regulate the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
K hold on here this is what I'm talking about, i'm not sure if this is what your talking about but it's the only radiator pipeing that runs into the firewall or could be connected to the heater core

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=10/28511452978.jpg&s=x10

On a side note, it does get radiator fluid to it, but the valv looks about half to 3/4 of the way closed, also the radiator fluid is not warm



Post Edited (Oct 13, 10:07am)
 

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Yep, that's the water **** right there. Bottom middle of the picture with the vacuum line on it. See if it's stuck one way or the other. That controls the heat into the HVAC controls. Usually it gets stuck open so that only heat blows, but I've heard of it not working too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, well there is no vac from the hose connecting to the sylenoid but the bottom pushes in and out... it will only move about 3/4 of a centimeter, is that normal?
 

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Mine moves more than that, like an inch or an inch and a half at least.

Replace it, it shouldn't cost much.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Found out the problem, the butterfly valve was sticking closed so I opend it up then used a plastic tie to hold the valve open... should help for a while but i'd like to replace the whole unit. How much do the heater valves cost?
 

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An apparently sticky water **** raises a couple of concerns.

If the water **** is so gunked up, I have to wonder about the condition of the rest of the cooling system. Perhaps a thorough flush would be in order.

If the water **** is to be removed for cleaning and examination, it would be prudent to expect the hoses to it to be replaced at the same time. Disturbing decades-old hoses, particularly those at the back of the engine that are subject to heat soak from the nearby exhaust crossover pipe, is asking for trouble.
 
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