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The light for the fan/temp controls is part of the dash board illumination, it is not connected to the same power is the fan and vacuum solinoid controls. Even though the fuse isn't blown, don't stop looking around the fuse box. The fan fuse usually overheats and burns through the fuse box cover. Is your fuse box cover burned, bent, melted? This would be a sign of previous problems. If a fuse has overheated previously then the contacts in the box have probably suffered damage. Check to see if you even have power at this fuse. If so, then start at the other end. Apply power directly to the motor and see if that works, then work your way through all the relays and connectors.

> This is a strong clue. For your heater to
> work you have to have power at the selector
> switch. The selector switch then puts power
> on that blue and red wire going to the
> blower relay on the bottom of the motor.

> Before you disassemble too much, pull the
> connector off of the blower relay and use a
> test light or voltmeter to determine if
> there is power on that wire when the
> selector is in any position but off. Test
> all positions so you can identify any bad
> connections in the switch.

> If you don't have power on that wire, you'll
> need to find out why. If you do the problem
> is most likely the blower amplifier or
> motor.

> I can't help you figure out why there isn't
> power on the selector switch because I
> haven't taken that apart. But one thing that
> comes to mind is that it may be powered off
> of the accessory fuse. Did you check that?

> Bob A.
 
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