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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still having trouble figuring out my heater blower motor... I found that fuse everyone talks about, but it wasn't blown... What else can I do? Would dirty contacts be a problem? But they don't look dirty... What do I do?

Another thng, that panel on the dash, where you adjust the heat and temp, etc. should that be lit up. Because mine isn't...

Please help me someone....

Simon

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how do you get an IZCC ##??
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
> I am still having trouble figuring out my
> heater blower motor... I found that fuse
> everyone talks about, but it wasn't blown...
> What else can I do? Would dirty contacts be
> a problem? But they don't look dirty... What
> do I do?

> Another thng, that panel on the dash, where
> you adjust the heat and temp, etc. should
> that be lit up. Because mine isn't...

> Please help me someone....

> Simon

> ps
> how do you get an IZCC ##??
First thing you should do is check to see if the motor is good, just pull it out and connect the L shaped connectors to a 12 V source. Since your fuse is not blown I would guess the motor is probably all right, but you should check it anyway. If your motor still works then it is probably your blower amplifier that's quit on you. It's the larger of the two boxs attached by the blower motor, the other is a relay. It should have 4 wires coming out of it black, blue green and some other one. The only way I could find to check it was to replace it. When I replaced mine a couple of months ago I think I paid $30 for it at the junk yard, no auto parts stores had them or even knew what they were, and the junk yard would have let me return it if it wasn't the problem. Hope that helps.

Jared
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
> Another thng, that panel on the dash, where
> you adjust the heat and temp, etc. should
> that be lit up. Because mine isn't...

This is a strong clue. For your heater to work you have to have power at the selector switch. The selector switch then puts power on that blue and red wire going to the blower relay on the bottom of the motor.

Before you disassemble too much, pull the connector off of the blower relay and use a test light or voltmeter to determine if there is power on that wire when the selector is in any position but off. Test all positions so you can identify any bad connections in the switch.

If you don't have power on that wire, you'll need to find out why. If you do the problem is most likely the blower amplifier or motor.

I can't help you figure out why there isn't power on the selector switch because I haven't taken that apart. But one thing that comes to mind is that it may be powered off of the accessory fuse. Did you check that?

Bob A.
 

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The light for the fan/temp controls is part of the dash board illumination, it is not connected to the same power is the fan and vacuum solinoid controls. Even though the fuse isn't blown, don't stop looking around the fuse box. The fan fuse usually overheats and burns through the fuse box cover. Is your fuse box cover burned, bent, melted? This would be a sign of previous problems. If a fuse has overheated previously then the contacts in the box have probably suffered damage. Check to see if you even have power at this fuse. If so, then start at the other end. Apply power directly to the motor and see if that works, then work your way through all the relays and connectors.

> This is a strong clue. For your heater to
> work you have to have power at the selector
> switch. The selector switch then puts power
> on that blue and red wire going to the
> blower relay on the bottom of the motor.

> Before you disassemble too much, pull the
> connector off of the blower relay and use a
> test light or voltmeter to determine if
> there is power on that wire when the
> selector is in any position but off. Test
> all positions so you can identify any bad
> connections in the switch.

> If you don't have power on that wire, you'll
> need to find out why. If you do the problem
> is most likely the blower amplifier or
> motor.

> I can't help you figure out why there isn't
> power on the selector switch because I
> haven't taken that apart. But one thing that
> comes to mind is that it may be powered off
> of the accessory fuse. Did you check that?

> Bob A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: One more place to check

One more thing that you may not know. The heater blower doesn't come on until the engine warms up to around 120 degrees. So if you try to make any of these tests with it cold, they won't check out.

There is a water temperature switch in the coolant line right behind the oil dipstick. It has a green wire and a blue wire attached to it. Disconnect these wires from this switch. Turn your key to the ignition position, put the heater selector on High, temperature setting on 80 and then jump across the two wires with a test light or jumper wire. If the heater starts blowing then the problem is the temperature switch.

Bob A.

> I am still having trouble figuring out my
> heater blower motor... I found that fuse
> everyone talks about, but it wasn't blown...
> What else can I do? Would dirty contacts be
> a problem? But they don't look dirty... What
> do I do?

> Another thng, that panel on the dash, where
> you adjust the heat and temp, etc. should
> that be lit up. Because mine isn't...

> Please help me someone....

> Simon

> ps
> how do you get an IZCC ##??
 
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