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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Z guru's, I have an 81n/a zx that I just had to have a header on since it was only $ 185 compaired to $ 230 for a manafold. pluse I plan on doing other mods in which the header would be of better use.

Now after breaking bolts off into the head and taking the head to a shop to get them out and putting studs in, I finally have the car back together after towing it to a shop and having the timing set, ( I just could not get it right so I paid the dealer $ 500 ) and with the open header on it I did get to drive to Midas which was cool. Just to find out that I had no compression because you know I took the short cut and only put 5 of the 11 bolts on the header because the intake was to thick.

After taking the intake off and having the tips miled down to 3/8 to match the header, now I really have the car back together. I started the car last night and it was very rough at idle, I drove around the block and finally it did idle on its owen.

The main question and problem that I am having, sorry for venting, I modified the stock tubing which goes from the manifold to the ERG, I cut it so it would fit the bend needed to go to the header which is a Pace Setter from NOPI speed shop here in Atlanta. The top end of the tub which goes to the bottom of the ERG is factory with the factory flare and connector on it. The PROBLEM is with the end that had to be cut I do have the factory connector but I have not been able to find any one who could flare the tub for me yet. I tried HOME DEPOT but the flareing kits that they had were to small or to big for the size tubing that I have.

MY real question is if I cap both the header and the ERG will I be able to still tune the car correctly or will it still run rough. I am hearing what sounds like a vacum leak and I have changed all the vacum lines and double check my intake and header bolts to make sure they are all tight.

I bought this Z in July and the only thing wrong was a hole in the manifold, now my dum but put on a header and all this has taken place. I have owen 5 Z before but I have never done any of the work on the cars. I have learned my lesson, I am a Z car driver not a mechanic and I would be very thank for any information that the Z gurus may have.

sorry for the length but I know you feel my pain.
 

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Home Depot or Lowes has threaded black iron pipe. By using various size 90 deg elbows, straight pieces, ect you can make a new egr tube. I also used a compression fitting (like you use on lp gas lines, to couple the fitting together).
 

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I fully agree with Nicks 83zxt. I completely removed the EGR and plugged the hole coming out of the manifold. Removal of the EGR will not affect the performance or how the car drives\idles.

But remember if it violates the emissions laws where you live, it would be wise to leave it in.

Good luck - Yasin.
 

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DON'T DO IT!!!

Cap BOTH the EGR port in the bottom of the intake manifold, AND the EGR port in the header.
I have seen the "remove the vacuum line" trick and in EVERY case the car has had "False Air" problems (right, GhostKilla?) If the pintle of the EGR valve is held up even a LITTLE bit, you get one **** of a vacuum leak causing all sorts of problems with the EFI calibration. Do it the "right" way and plug the bottom. And leave the Vacuum line connected. Diret in the solenoid sucked in from a leak will cause problems later.

You could try to heat the bottom of the piping red hot, and hammer the fitting onto it. Believe it or not, you CAN get it to flare out that way, but it really is the "Primitive Pete" school of auto mechanics...

My views on headers being well known on this forum, I suppose, I table my smarta$$ comments on headers to only somewhat sarcastically add "I feel your pain".

Hope you get your car running soon.
 

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when i hear nightmares like this

i thank myself for leaving on the ole reliable stock exhaust manifold
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey guys, thanks all the help because I am almost at the cave man stage. I feel like driving my Z off a cliff but I can't get it to idle worth s#%t.

I have tried Home Depot, Ace hardware, and this cool resto shop which did have a flaring kit but that dam pipe would not bulgde at all it kept sliping down.

So, were can I get a plug and what size is it. It would be nice to cruze a little since it's 60 in Atlanta today.

Thanks again, and I'm glade there are no cliff around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Z gurus, I have pluged both ports and I have this vacum leak that seems like it is comming form injectors becuase I made sure that the intake bolts were retightened. So any I did take off the fule rail to put it intake on easyer, and in doing so I cracked on of the injector cap brakets in have, by with to much tourq.

All the rest are fine, the car starts up with a little hesitation and then you here this vacum sound coming from the intake where it meets the head.

Help me out guys I am lost, the EGR is on its way but I did not here any noise from it.

Thanks in advance
 

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CARB CLEANER

Take carb cleaner and spray it around where you think you have the vacuum leak. If the idle markedly changes, you have found your vacuum leak, and simply have to remedy it.
I always make it a point of installing NEW o-Rings with injectors whenever I remove them, and I install the injector O-Rings with Dow 33 Compound. It's this pink O-Ring grease that is heavy and does not melt at 350 degrees. It lets the vacuum leak (if there eve appears one...) ot suck IT into the leaking area around the o-ring and seals it. I have been very happy installing the injectors this way. It lets the injectors move around if you need to get a better angle at something near them---for a loooooooong time.
As for cracking the plastic pieces, all I can say is easy does it. If you are worried about the things backing out, install them with less torque, and LocTite 242 (Blue Removable Threadlocker)
Remember, suspect a vacuum leak? Spray the carb cleaner there. Change in engine speed will tell you you're found it!
 
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