ZCar Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Guys
Today I have this problem, car was running just fine, but out of nothing the brake light goes on and of when I start moving, in addition I dont have AC just the fan, I hear the compresor trying to start but it wont..., when I press AC Auto buttom, brake light goes on and of, on and of and it keep on that way until I turn AC buttom of...

any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
This is really weird.........

First of all is it the "Brake" warning lamp or the "Lights" warning lamp that flashes.
Secondly, does the lamp flash when ever the compressor kicks on and off?
MaxDoc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Just ran codes and 55 ok.
Brake fluid is ok.

MaxDoc: both lights brake and lights warning lamp flashes when I turn AC on.
And yes, lights flash when I hear compressor kicking on and of...


Any idea?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok I am going to test it now...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
My response is .....

Holy S*** this is going to require a little research with the wiring diagram....
I can't see how the two systems are even related. It sounds like the compressor is shorting to the dash somehow causing the lights to illuminate and overloading the compressor circut. I remember some of the old A/C systems had a thermal switch that would shut down a compressor when it started to overload but I don't recall seeing that kind of a switch for a LONG time. Hmmmmmmmm
MaxDoc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Oh my God.
In addition I hear a noice under the steering wheel, like a vibrator, I guess it is a relay that tries to me make some noice when brake and light warning lights come ON...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
EXCELLENT point!

and it makes sense. Better than my shorting theory. If the battery is discharged to a point where it can't maintain enough voltage the dash indicators do start to illuminate as systems start to shut down.
Mr. Federico CR you need to grab a voltmeter and see what kind of voltage the battery has when the car is shut off and idling. Shut off it should have at least 12.3 volts and idling it should read 12.8-13volts.
MaxDoc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
MaxDoc
Thanks for the advise, I already did that.
I have HKS turbo timer installed, so It reads beetwen 12.5 up 14.5v ok, but in addition I coneected a voltimeter in the batery, with the same read out

Thanks for your patience, I have no ideas at this time...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I have a Viper alarm installed that was conected just to open and close doors with the remote, I kept the original car alarm system
I also have Apexi AVC-R
Zemulator
Pionner Radio
Tripod gauges Pyrometer, Boost and Rich Lean
This is what I remember.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
Hmmmmmm I would start...

by disconnecting the Zemulator. That could be what is linking the seperate systems. Unplug it and test drive.
MaxDoc



Post Edited (Feb 2, 11:22am)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You mean totally disconect the Zemulator and install a Eprom ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,532 Posts
Ii think that is what he means, do you have a standard (working) eeprom to put in? Whatinjectors are you running? Baseline files?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
Yeah thats what I was ...

thinking... But before going to all that let me see if there is any other way the systems could be linked. Do you have a FSM to refer to?
MaxDoc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
FSM meaning?

I had 740cc Venom injectors but I removed them now I have 370cc
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top