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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Woke up this morning and went cough cough. Must be sick so I stayed home. Felt much better after calling boss and cough cough said I wasn't coming in today.
Fired up the kerosene heater in the garage and first installed my front air dam Motorsport # 50-1412. Duct tape and vise grip pliers and my floor jack helped out a lot. This should have been a two person job but it went fairly well. Two and a half hours with a couple of breaks. Looks good.

Next came the rear spoiler Motorsport # 50-1573. This took about 45 minutes and was easy. Lined up fine and looks pretty good. Will remove (2 screws) to have painted.

Next was the rear window louvers. Read the directions about 10 times and tested mounting hardware in depth before sticking them on. This took about an hour and looks really good. Accents the rear spoiler nicely.

Next started reading the instructions on the bra. Said to make sure box stated my car and year. It didn't. Called Motorsports and they will ship out the correct one today.

All for now. It is Beer:30 PM. Narrowed color down to bright yellow with black trim or remain stock. BUMBLE Z was a great idea... Later
 

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Re: Yellow!! You're Hired!!

> Woke up this morning and went cough
> cough. Must be sick so I stayed home.
> Felt much better after calling boss and
> cough cough said I wasn't coming
> in today.
> Fired up the kerosene heater in the garage
> and first installed my front air dam
> Motorsport # 50-1412. Duct tape and vise
> grip pliers and my floor jack helped out a
> lot. This should have been a two person job
> but it went fairly well. Two and a half
> hours with a couple of breaks. Looks good.

> Next came the rear spoiler Motorsport #
> 50-1573. This took about 45 minutes and was
> easy. Lined up fine and looks pretty good.
> Will remove (2 screws) to have painted.

> Next was the rear window louvers. Read the
> directions about 10 times and
> tested mounting hardware in
> depth before sticking them on. This took
> about an hour and looks really good. Accents
> the rear spoiler nicely.

> Next started reading the instructions on the
> bra. Said to make sure box stated my car and
> year. It didn't. Called Motorsports and they
> will ship out the correct one today.

> All for now. It is Beer:30 PM. Narrowed
> color down to bright yellow with black trim
> or remain stock. BUMBLE Z was a great
> idea... Later

All right. You won't regret it. The blacked out trim is a nice touch, too. I blacked out everything except the key locks and the upper rear quarter panel Z emblems.

Later,

Matt
 

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Yellow

> All right. You won't regret it. The blacked
> out trim is a nice touch, too. I blacked out
> everything except the key locks and the
> upper rear quarter panel Z emblems.

> Later,

> Matt

Yellow rules! I always (well ok all 2 times) that I've rebuilt my engine, I've painted the block yellow. Plus when I do repaint I'm going to do it the original lime fire-engine yellow.

Also since you brought it up, what is the best way to black out trim and have it be durable and professional looking?
 

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Re: Trim Black

> Yellow rules! I always (well ok all 2 times)
> that I've rebuilt my engine, I've painted
> the block yellow. Plus when I do repaint I'm
> going to do it the original lime
> fire-engine yellow.

> Also since you brought it up, what is the
> best way to black out trim and have it be
> durable and professional looking?

Zebra,

Funny you asked, because I've been thinking about how I did it and what I would do differently next time. So now you're going to get the whole scoop.

I talked at length with the auto body supply shop on this subject. They assured me that if the metal is prepped correctly that Trim Black (that's what it's called, in an aerosal can) would look factory and be durable.

So, when my car was stripped of all trim, I roughed up the chrome with 400 grit and cleaned with paint prep (wax and oil remover). I put about five plus coats on each piece. On the window frame I just prepped as good as possible and masked off around. It turned out beautifully, looked like it came right from the factory.

How'd it hold up?

Well, that was a year ago October. It has flaked in a few small places, and continues ( I'm positive this is from the car wash pressure. I've seen it flake as I'm spraying (really sucks)) and someone's ring has a way of scratching its way through the paint to the chrome on the window frame as she's getting in and out of the car. But she's so fine that I don't care. She also bumped a curb about a month after I finished the car and cracked the front spoiler. I was only bummed for about a million hours. I digress. Sorry.

About every three months I'll get the can of trim black and spray some into the lid, dip the brush and start touching up. It blends real well.

I think what I would do differently is applly a really durable clear coat. I would definitely consult with a paint supply for the type to use, but I think this would help. If I had the time I'd never use the self serve washes, but when it's 30 degrees out, it's about the only option. Plus, I restored my car to drive, not to roll it into a show and get pissed every time a new blem shows up. So, hey, it's not perfect, just beautiful. Kinda like my wife. Funny how we try to justify our obsession with these things by likening it unto our girls. Oh, I'm digressing again. Sorry.

So, there you have it. Is it worth it? Yes, if done well.

Sorry for the dissertation, but you asked for it and it's only midnite.

Matt
 

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Re: Trim Black

Thank you sir.

Pretty much what I figured, I tried using some motorcycle exhaust expansion pipe paint (in satin black of course) on the inside door latch handle escutcheon thingys and that has held up pretty well. You have to bake that on though, so maybe I'll try the other stuff and just do a really good prep job like you suggested except possibly putting on a coat of primer first over the sanded survace.
 

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Re: of course, primer will do it.

> Thank you sir.

> Pretty much what I figured, I tried using
> some motorcycle exhaust expansion pipe paint
> (in satin black of course) on the inside
> door latch handle escutcheon thingys and
> that has held up pretty well. You have to
> bake that on though, so maybe I'll try the
> other stuff and just do a really good prep
> job like you suggested except possibly
> putting on a coat of primer first over the
> sanded survace.

You know, I primed the plastic crome tail light trim and it's still perfect. I also primed the grill and it hasn't chipped either.

I don't know why I didn't prime the chrome. That would probably do it. Thanks for the obvious answer.

Later, and good night.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
primer +rustoleum satin indoor/outdoor paint

>I sanded, then used rustoleum primer and indoor outdoor satin black paint 3 years ago and the only flaw is where I hit it with the buffer.
 

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Use Self Etching Primer n/c

> Thank you sir.

> Pretty much what I figured, I tried using
> some motorcycle exhaust expansion pipe paint
> (in satin black of course) on the inside
> door latch handle escutcheon thingys and
> that has held up pretty well. You have to
> bake that on though, so maybe I'll try the
> other stuff and just do a really good prep
> job like you suggested except possibly
> putting on a coat of primer first over the
> sanded survace.
n/c
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Black Trim Crazy People

My God. I got more hits on my post than ever before. And on a topic I just barely mentioned. I am going to go with the BRIGHT YELLOW with BLACK STRIPE and a license plate that says BUMBLE Z. And special thanks for the originator of that idea. I am not the only crazy dude out here...
 

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Re: of course, primer will do it.

> You know, I primed the plastic crome tail
> light trim and it's still perfect. I also
> primed the grill and it hasn't chipped
> either.

> I don't know why I didn't prime the chrome.
> That would probably do it. Thanks for the
> obvious answer.

> Later, and good night.

> Matt

After digging through all this mess to the end of the forum----I finally find this trim question. Primer would help especially if is an etching primer, but the cure-all for this would be to spend the extra money and find a shop that does powder coating. Talk about something that looks sweet when done and will last for ever in most all climates. Hey if you are looking to do it right this would be my suggestion. People use this for engine blocks, headers, exhaust components, frames( depending on vehicle), and everything in between. It will have a high resistance to heat, rock chips, and even rings.
 
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