I got a new battery for it and now it starts, But not with out hoping and praying it takes like 2 min to start, and when it runs it runs like @#@$#@%! It won't idle andi have to give it gas for it to run, if i let off the gas it dies. And i can't time it cause it won't idle. Where is the idle screw? i have a book for it and it says it on top of the throtle body, but its not. And i can't find it any where. And tips on what the idle problem is and how to make my car run good?
Got my 83 280zxt running
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Cache i am sorry for what i said if you are reading this, i was mad at my car and didn't want to beleive any thing. Sorry for what i said, you seem very knowledgeable and i would like your help.
I have three turbo cars and I have had similar problems to yours. I own a shop manual and an ohm meter and was able to fix the problem. I think you problem is a minor one but you are so RUDE. Find a mechanic, it will be cheaper than buying expensive parts that you don't need since you won't listen to correct information and instead insult the person trying to help
I am sorry for the way i reacted and when i insulted everyone, i am trying to control my anger. But i realy need some help, PLEASE. I can't appologize anymore then this.
Hey 103kzx its cool. Just try to remember, its not easy to diagnose a problem given the small amount of information that's generally offered. The people on this forum have been a great help to each other and ya need to remember what it is that your mad at.
Preaching aside, it sounds like more than one issue. First, there is no real idle adjustment on a L28et engine. Its all controlled by the ecu. From the description you've given, I'd suspect a serious vacuum leak. If you've checked all your vacuum lines and believe them to be good, check the operation of the egr valve mounted near the firewall on the intake manifold. A leak in the egr diaphragm will cause the symptoms you describe.
You will also want to be sure the engine has its initial timing set correctly. By that I mean that when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center, the distributor rotor should be pointing at or very near the terminal for #1 cylinder.
If the car will run, however hesitantly, you have fuel delivery. Assuming the fuel isn't contaminated, its likely an ignition issue.
Good luck, let us know what you find.
Dan
Preaching aside, it sounds like more than one issue. First, there is no real idle adjustment on a L28et engine. Its all controlled by the ecu. From the description you've given, I'd suspect a serious vacuum leak. If you've checked all your vacuum lines and believe them to be good, check the operation of the egr valve mounted near the firewall on the intake manifold. A leak in the egr diaphragm will cause the symptoms you describe.
You will also want to be sure the engine has its initial timing set correctly. By that I mean that when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center, the distributor rotor should be pointing at or very near the terminal for #1 cylinder.
If the car will run, however hesitantly, you have fuel delivery. Assuming the fuel isn't contaminated, its likely an ignition issue.
Good luck, let us know what you find.
Dan
Your previous symptoms were similar to a bad CAS, a quick of that check is to watch your tach when you crank the engine. If the needle moves, the CAS is ok. Like greydog said, check all your vaccum lines. With the extra heat of the turbo the old lines get very brittle. You do not have a idle adjustment screw on your turbo. The ecu does control the idle using a vacuum control modulator located under the AFM. You said in a earlier post that your oil smelled of gas indicating a very rich mixture. Since you have checked for a stuck injector I would next test the head temp sensor, located on the right side of the head at the back. Make sure that the connection is not corroded or that the wire is cut or broken. If you have a ohm meter, the sensor should read below 2.8 at 68deg of 2.1 or above below 20deg. It would be best to test at the ECU, Pins 23 & 26. Otherwise check the sensor itself. If the curcuit is open, the ECU will run pure rich and cause the car not to start or to barely run. As a test you can put a temporary jumper in the sensor plug (a paper clip works great). This will cause the car to run lean if the wiring harness is ok. If you keep this car you really need to buy a factory shop manual. Hanyes and Chiltons have very little information on the turbo
Been there, many of us have, here are some pointer
If you do not have a Nissan Factory Service Manual, you need to get one. NO IFS, AND, OR BUTS! You are probably anxious about getting the car going and you are not going to like this, but troubleshooting this car in particular is a time consuming process that needs to be done in a methodical way.
I and many others on this site can throw piece-meal things at you, like vacuum leaks and timing. And I'll bet you have vacuum leaks and your timing is off. But the ZXT's engine management system is a SYSTEM. Unlike many other cars, the ZXT is in a class by itself in how reliant it is on everything working in harmony with each other.
You will benefit greatly and REALLY educate yourself by using the Factory Service Manual (NOT HAYNES OR CHILTON) and performing checks on each and every ECCS component. Make sure you have a DIGITAL volt meter and do ALL of the voltage and continuity tests on each component. Some of this will just let you know that 90% of your components are fine, hopefully 100%. But you need to know and be sure of what is correctly working on you car before you start trying to correct your problems. You WILL eventually find your problem/problems. It may seem like voodoo is at work under that hood and in you footwell, but it's plain old electrical/electronics.
If you had the distributor out of the car, you must make sure that when your number 1 piston is at TDC, your ditributor's rotor must be connecting to spark plug wire terminal number 1. The manual points this out and shows you how to do it. Also, make sure your firing order is correct. The car will start if a couple of the spark plug wires are reversed, but it will barely run.
You will need the factory service manual anyway, because Nissan Dealers SUCK when it comes to servicing and troubleshooting these cars. They are uninterested in them to begin with and their mechanics are just as confused as you are about this engine management system.
If you do not have a Nissan Factory Service Manual, you need to get one. NO IFS, AND, OR BUTS! You are probably anxious about getting the car going and you are not going to like this, but troubleshooting this car in particular is a time consuming process that needs to be done in a methodical way.
I and many others on this site can throw piece-meal things at you, like vacuum leaks and timing. And I'll bet you have vacuum leaks and your timing is off. But the ZXT's engine management system is a SYSTEM. Unlike many other cars, the ZXT is in a class by itself in how reliant it is on everything working in harmony with each other.
You will benefit greatly and REALLY educate yourself by using the Factory Service Manual (NOT HAYNES OR CHILTON) and performing checks on each and every ECCS component. Make sure you have a DIGITAL volt meter and do ALL of the voltage and continuity tests on each component. Some of this will just let you know that 90% of your components are fine, hopefully 100%. But you need to know and be sure of what is correctly working on you car before you start trying to correct your problems. You WILL eventually find your problem/problems. It may seem like voodoo is at work under that hood and in you footwell, but it's plain old electrical/electronics.
If you had the distributor out of the car, you must make sure that when your number 1 piston is at TDC, your ditributor's rotor must be connecting to spark plug wire terminal number 1. The manual points this out and shows you how to do it. Also, make sure your firing order is correct. The car will start if a couple of the spark plug wires are reversed, but it will barely run.
You will need the factory service manual anyway, because Nissan Dealers SUCK when it comes to servicing and troubleshooting these cars. They are uninterested in them to begin with and their mechanics are just as confused as you are about this engine management system.
Check the underside of the boot from the AFM to the turbo. Mine was split, and the car wouldn't idle - I had to keep the engine above 2500 rpm. Once I replaced the boot no problem.
Unfortunately, these boots are no longer available - you have to scrounge one from the junkyard.
Mine was split in the accordion section where unless you actually feel for it (not having a lift so you could see it from underneath), you may not kkon wit is there.
Make sure your TPS is adjusted so that the least little bit of throttle movement changes the reading. On the Turbo, this sensor is to cause enrichment only at idle, when the throttle plate is closed.
Unfortunately, these boots are no longer available - you have to scrounge one from the junkyard.
Mine was split in the accordion section where unless you actually feel for it (not having a lift so you could see it from underneath), you may not kkon wit is there.
Make sure your TPS is adjusted so that the least little bit of throttle movement changes the reading. On the Turbo, this sensor is to cause enrichment only at idle, when the throttle plate is closed.
I apreciate all of you guys help, i will check everything and get back with ya guys
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